Does anyone have experience with the installation and use of an electric fuel pump? This would be used on a 1928 truck.

I do have electric fuel pumps on two of my old Chevys but neither as the primary fuel source. They are inline as backup to the vacuum or mechanical pump.

Have worked on several old Chevys with electric pumps as primaries. In the majority of cases the pumps have proved to be a massive PAIN. The exceptions are when a needle/seat or valve is used in the carburetor that can take the 5+/- psi pressure from the electric pump. Pressure regulators have proven to be totally unreliable when very low pressures are desired. Without a pressure regulator then flooding, carburetor overflow or other leaking is common.

My advise is to not use an electric pump as the primary for any old chevys.

Very good advice Chipper.

Wausau

over here in lake Geneva with my 2 4cyl 1927 Chevrolets. I use vacuum tank as they are very reliable and simple. One of my cars came with an electric pump back up and it caused nothing but problems. First it blew out 2 brand new pressure regulators (brand new Mr Gasket regulators) because you have to set the pressure so low and the pump wants to give substantially more I concluded. Further I kept bumping into the switch turning it on and once inadvertently leaking gas all over the garage floor, I attribute this with the aging process, gas leaked from every hole possible. I removed it and went to vacuum tank school. On one of my 27's its been working uninterrupted for 8 years. Now I will never use anything but the vacuum tank system, they know what pressure to supply and are basically infallible. From one Packer guy to another.
Ken

Thanks for the help, I'll stick with the vacuum tank.

A mate of mine fitted an electric fuel pump as he couldn't get the vac tank to work. When he started it, the presure was to high and the engine bay caught fire, causing $12k damage to his brand new restored 26 2 door sedan.
Another mate of mine has done 80,000 miles in his 28, all done a vacuum tank.
Chris, down in Aus.

Makes me nervous thinking about it

Hello, I have been reading the post for some time and have just registered!
I discovered a gas leak under my 1931 Coupe. It turns out to be an electric fuel pump SW 110-N. Do I need to replace this fuel pump or can I just eliminate it?

Thanks!

Jim
if your car came with vacuum tank get rid of the electric pump.
Ken

Get rid of the pump. I understand that an alcohol resistant diaphragm is not available for those pumps. The 1931 mechanical pump is reliable and nearly trouble free when in good condition. Alcohol resistant diaphragms are available from many sources. Even rebuild kits. If you feel you need a backup then there are canister diaphragm pumps that are alcohol tolerant and not too expensive. Autoparts stores, eBay and antique autoparts dealers have them.

Hi there and welcome to Chevy Chatter. Glad to have you with us!



Ken, 1931 Chevrolets did not use a vacuum tank...they had a mechanical fuel pump instead. The first year for a mechanical fuel pump was 1929.

Jim: I agree with Chipper. You do not need an electric fuel pump and I would remove it from the car. Also, if you have any questions regarding your 1931 Chevy you can post them in the 1929-32 forum.

Good luck!

Junkyard
Thanks for that info, I was wondering. I can only afford a 4cyl from 1927 those 1931's cost twice as much! Must be that 6cyl I figure, now I know they do not have vacuum tanks.
Ken

Ya, there were a lot of changes in 1929 when Chevrolet went to the extra two cylinders, and the mechanical fuel pump was one of them.

Thanks Chipper and JD......sorry about posting in the wrong area!

I just discovered a related problem with my 28 coupe. The vacuum tank float has a leak and has filled with gas enough to not close the valve, thus allowing the gas in the inner tank to rise high enough that gas is drawn directly into the manifold. When I disconnect the suction line from the manifold, the engine runs properly.

Question - can the float be repaired, or is the fix to find and install a new float?

There is a fix that works very well. Send me a PM.

John
you can get a new stainless steel float that works great for 11 bucks. See the vacuum tank post very recent.
Ken

Ray -

System says 'AntiqueMechanic is over their Private Topic limit.' How else to reach you?

Hi Guys,

My nickel and dimes worth is, "stay with the Vac Tank"

I tried a 6 volt electric fuel pump, nothing but trouble, reverted back to Vac tank, no drama.

Once you take the time to get them working, they run for years with no problem.

Just my opinion based on 42 years with 28 Chev.

Cheers

Ray

Ray
my 27 sedan 4 bolt SW vacuum tank 8+ years without a hint.
Ken

Hope my 27 touring with new 4 bolt does the same.

My rig had a Model T cowl, when I dragged it home. As such, the fuel tank was above the carb. Of course when I put the fuel tank where it belongs, the carb was short of fuel. I was successful with fitting an electric 6 volt pump, but took some time. I fit a tank between the pump and the carb. The tank was mounted on the firewall, probably about where the vacuum pump belongs. That tank is fitted with a float and a mercury switch. The float manages the mercury switch, to operate the pump as needed. That means fuel is pressurized to the tank, but gravity feed from there to the carb. Rube Goldberg, for sure, but successful.

If you have a vac pump, I'd sure try to make that successful.

Good luck.

Using a tank, float and switch will produce the same pressure at the carburetor as the original vacuum tank. As long as the float/switch combination functions correctly it should be a good functional system.