33 Master, door is good in front but is low at back. What do I need to do to fix? Thanks

I don't know if your '33 master is the same as my '34 master... in my doors there is a diagonal ridged rod INSIDE the door, behind the door panel...... that rod lifts the back corner of the door..... if you look on the lower, rear, corner of the door bottom, you will see a slotted, threaded bolt that you can tighten up to lift the back lower corner of the door.... you might need to spray some 'blaster' penetrating oil on it if it is rusty..... While I had my door panels off... I had to adjust the doors to lift the back edges up to fit the door opening properly.......
In your photo your trim line on the door & body, look to be lined up properly... so your door is probably lined up as it should be...

Another point to look at, if the door is square within itself it maybe the body of a 4 door has sagged at the "B" pillar allowing the rear of the door to appear out of place. On a 2 door it maybe the "A" pillar has sagged.
Tony

Where is A pillar and what would I do to fix? It is a two door. Thanks

It might help if you posted a photo that shows the whole door . The A pillar is the very front one.

There are body/doorway adjustments under the body in four places... you have to crawl under the car, behind the splash aprons ... there are four large bolts holding the body, through the wood framework onto the frame... my repair manual shows you which one to shim to raise or lower the doorways.... to center the doors..... On a two door, the second bolt back from the cowl is the one to adjust if the back of the door sags..... use thick metal washers to raise that area (2nd bolt)
It should be in your repair manual..... hope this helps, Sunny

Thank you sunny.

Ok guys, the top of door is low so I need to add shim between frame and wood at the #2 bolt. Correct?

When the door is opened a few inches can you lifT the door up and down a little?
If you can check hinge screws AND HINGE OIN WEAR
Did you try raIsing the door by tightening thr diaginal adjusting rod made for that problem (inside the door0

Consult Fisher Body manual, 1933-34 Edition in the old car manual on the internet

No door does not move up and down. This is 33, it does not have the diagonal adjustment rod. I do have the manual and it says for low door shim #2 body bolt. Just not 100% sure on what I'm doing.

OK I understad. Then is would try the shim process.
keep us posted on the results.

I agree with Gene, by the last photos it is a 2 door so the #2 bolt is the body frame mounting bolt near the front of the door ("A" pillar) accessed by lifting the floor boards. Considering it is most likely 90 years since the bolt has been touched expect it to be unwilling to undo.
For shim material it would be better to cut 2"x 3" pieces of body thickness sheet metal and add them 1 at a time as it wont take much at the front of the door to make a big difference at the rear.
Tony

Thanks, will post results

I would also make sure all of the other bolts are tight.

Dave

Added 1/16 to #2 bolt. It did raise it a bit but still not flush. Other bolts are tight.

I think that to raise it up enough..... you might have to loosen the other 3 bolts... and use thick shims (about 1/8" each) and put 2 or 3 thick shims under #2 area... then tighten ALL the bolts and see how much it raised the rear of the door....
you are loosening all bolts to allow the body (door opening) to move... if you only loosen #2... and the other bolts are tight.... then there is very little movement allowed.....

The directions in the body manual are for doors slighty off from either errors in production or slight, resonable causes. For the amont of sag in your door it is going to be necessary to use (or try) much more agressve shimming such aas described above.

I had the same problem... and big shims did not work... and my hinges were not worn or loose.... so.... I built a diagonal brace inside the door.....I bought a solid 1/4 " rod,3 ft long.... and at the same hardware store a turn buckle...... I unscrewed the turn buckle and cut and welded the two threaded ends to the cut rod..... and then I had drill holes trough the wood frames and to weld small steel plates at the proper angles to support the pulling of the rod ends against the door frames.... the rod end, near the hinges is anchored by the upper hinge.... the lower or back end of the rod is anchored down by the bottom of the rear of the door.... then I tightened the turn buckle... and it lifted the door about 1/2".... and they both (did it to both doors)... shut nicely...
I wish I had taken photos of the process & the fabrication..... The doors are now insulated, with new glass and channels, and new door panels and sound proofing and upholstered..... I am not taking them apart again, unless absolutely necessary.....
You may have to open your doors up and fabricate a rod & turn buckle ..... to lift the rear enough for alignment...
mine is a 2 door town sedan..... and they have real long doors (to access the rear seats), and are very heavy doors.....

If the corners of a door are at 90 deg. then a rod will pull them out of square. If the door opening is also not square (or rectangular) then a rod may be what is needed to fit the door to the opening.

If the doors are not relatively flat then the rod can pull it out of line with the body. If the door sticks out at the bottom, for example then a rod might just pull the bottom inward to match the body.

There are factory angled braces in certain years and models. Typically on doors that are relatively flat and wide. Many will remember the turnbuckle rods on wooden screen doors to keep them square.

Update, 1/8 shim added to #2 and door was still a little low. Checked the door latch and it was badly worn down. Switched out from other side and door fits perfectly.

I do not know what the door latch is (striker, lock or dove tail) but the reason it is worn down is because the door is saging and soon the transplant is going to be worn down also.
The strkier, lock, or dove tail is not meant to be used for door alignment.