Hi All,

I am new here. I just bought a 1936 1/2 ton Chevy pickup truck as a basket case. The gentleman that owned it before bought it as a fully original solid car. After owning it for a couple of years he decided to tear it apart to repaint and make a rod out of it. He got as far as getting it completely disassembled and swapping out the rear-end, motor and transmission and putting disc brakes on the front then putting the cab back on the chassis. Unfortunately he got that far and passed away from a heart attack. I bought the truck (and bucket-o-parts) from his widow.

I have just now started to put the thing back together and run into a few questions about how things go and am hoping some of you here with one of these truck (or knowledge of them) can help me identify a few mysterious parts as well as provide some insight on how some parts are assembled.

So with that introduction, here is my first set of questions...
1) Can anyone help me identify the parts in the attached pictures? I have just about convinced myself they simply do not go to this truck...the gentleman had other projects going on in his garage when he passed and these may be from something else. I could not post the images so here are links to the images hosted by google photos.

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/n7gg6yeHb5dZtu7H9[/img]
[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NoEs9x7xGCAdqRQ8[/img]
[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/L6KLeBWvaqL4AkdY7[/img]


2) Can anyone describe how the rear window is mounted...what holds it in.

3) Finally, the wood inside both doors is in kind bad shape. Is it possible to buy these pieces as a kit or do I need to try and fabricate them myself?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Steve

The parts pictured look like engine side pans. They go between the frame and the side of the 6 cylinder engine, large hole is for the exhaust pipe. If your trk is a low cab then the rear window is held in from the outside with a frame that is the same shape as the glass. If it is a high cab then I don't know. Years ago I had a 36 low cab so I'm going from old memory bank.

Steve,
What are your plans for the truck?

Mike

Blue 50 - Thanks for the information...guess I wont need those two panels since the motor has been changed. I believe there was probably a frame that went inside of the back glass on this truck but I do not know for sure. I hope someone who has one can tell me and maybe even post a picture.

Mike - I don't really know yet. I do plan to get it back together as it currently is (as a bit of a hot rod) without doing any further damage to the original truck. I got the original motor, transmission, front brakes (with backing plates) and rear end with the truck so it could go back original if desired.

Door wood is probably available from Bill Cartwright of KC Wood in NC. Doors are not fun to re-wood but if they need it, you’ll have to do it. Door wood is complicated to make and bill get around $700 per door I think.

I am currently restoring a 34’ pickup and my restoration log is on the AACA forums. I just finished rewooding the cab andhave been working on converting over the rear to a higher ratio.

Christech - Thanks for the info on KC Wood. Coincidentally, I just spoke with the lady I bought the truck from and she said her husband had bought the wood for the cab (but apparently not the doors) from that company. I have emailed them to get pricing and availability for the door wood.

I checked out your thread on the other forum about your '34 build...what a nice job you are doing!! Could you tell me how the back glass in these trucks is held in? It looks to me like there should be some type of frame (either metal or wood) on the inside that sandwiches the glass (in the weatherstripping) between itself and the outer sheet metal. If the frame is wood, I can make that but if it is metal, I will need to try and find one. Also, do the seats just sit in this thing? It looks like that is correct for the bottom sections but is there nothing that holds the seat back in place?

Thanks again to everyone for the help.

First of all if you have wooden doors your '36 is from the first half of the production year. All steel doors last half of '36 production year. Your cab also has a wood frame. (late half '36 is all steel) The back rest of the seat will be held in place by a cross beam of wood mid height across the cab. Just above the top of the seat back rest level. The back rest itself has two "S" type projections attached to the top of the rear of the back rest. These go into the wood slots in the board and prevent the back rest top from coming forward. The lower part of the seat is meant to be adjustable. It is held in place by the friction on the lower seat bottom. It comes forward or backward over the seat bottom. You may have to make your own seat adjuster out of wood by placing a 2x4 to your own personal desired position behind the lower back rest to the cab. The bottom seat cushions are set into the lower section. These are held in place by metal tabs that are in the four corners under the seat. These hang down. These are snug against the sides of the bottom metal ring. These seat bottoms are not adjustable. These are meant to be lifted out for easy access to the storage space under the seat. (You said you have the cab wood from speaking with the widow.) Perhaps this part was not installed. (Your inquiry from KC Wood will show you this part of the wood and it's placement. Also about the wood that goes around the rear window.) Your photo's are of "Splash Pans". These are used to prevent water/ mud from splashing on engine. These also direct air flow from the fan across the engine and out the bottom of engine compartment.
Good luck on you project.

Terrill - thanks for the help, I am making good progress now.

I still have a problem figuring out the doors. I see how the trim metal goes in the window opening but I think my doors must be missing some wood because I can't see how the window is captured. Can anyone share a picture of a door with the trim and inside skin/panel removed so I can see what might be missing from mine.

Thanks,
Steve

Try reaching out to Mr.Bob Adler. Bobadler@nycap.rr.com he has a surplus of Chevrolet truck parts. Good luck

Basically the window slides down a felt "U" track that is "tacked" onto the upper outer door frame (wood rail). Place the tacks through the bottom of the "U". I like using a magnetized "tack hammer" ( the kind used to put wall paper up). Place the tack on the hammer and into possession on the "U" track. Tap with a second hammer until the tack is seated into it's place. A rail follows the with of the window down into the door. It keeps the glass in place as it travels down and up. These are different lengths according to the door curvature. Place the glass into the door felt track as in the "UP" possession. The lower window tracks are slightly wider than the glass as it travels up and down. You will have to adjust the wood tracks width by placing the felt "U" tracks onto them and moving by hand the window up and down. The window will stop hanging up when the proper width and alignment is reached.The window is stopped going down by a board across the door at approx. the dept of when the top of the glass is level with the bottom of the window opening (when in the full open position). This board also has a rubber bumper attached "to catch" the bottom of the glass; when in full open. This determines the placement of this board in the door. The lower side wood rails attach to this board. They are adjusted along this board. The tracks are slightly wider at the bottom attachment than at the point where they met the track at the upper door frame. The window will travel left to right slightly as it goes up. It will fit snugly in the full up position. The bottom board does not have felt "U" track on it. This board attaches to the outer door frame wood. The crank assembly is attached to a separate wood assembly. This assembly is attached to the outer door frame via wood screws. That allows removal for servicing. The window crank is attached to a "U" track that is attached to the glass bottom.

'First of all if you have wooden doors your '36 is from the first half of the production year. All steel doors last half of '36 production year."

Good morning terrill.

I did not find the above to be the case on my '36 high cab that I've owned since 1965. The DMV paperwork I have shows my '36 was originally sold in 1935 so it is a very early version of a '36, but definitely a '36 as shown by hydraulic brakes, rounded bottom windshield frame corners, "skirts" on the front fenders and the dash board that is definitely '36 also.

Its doors have no wood in them and I also found that later model window regulators are a drop in replacement and work way better than the originals.

Ray W

Depending on what assembly plant in what part of the country. They finished out their wood parts and switched over to 1/2 steel. A very few '36's were made all wood with wood in the doors. Reference item #3 of the original post at the top.

Ok, I now realize that although the title of the thread correctly indicates the year of my truck (1935), I evidently made a type-o in my initial post and said the truck was a 1936. As I now realize there seem to be some significant differences between the two trucks I want to clear this up so I am not confused by the information provided.

My truck is most definitely a 1935 1/2 ton short bed truck.

Your '35 is all wood body frame and wood frame doors. There are body shops that work on all wood body frames. Call around in your area.

1. left engine oil pan. 2. right engine oil pan. 3. both pans together.

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