I am in the process of swapping the 216 in my '37 1/2 ton pu with a early 1955 235 cu engine. It will remain 6 volt. My question involves reusing the '37 ignition switch (interlock). Is it possible to remove the cable that goes to the coil and use the wire inside. My switch has one wire going to the amp meter and a wire going to the gas gauge. It looks like the cable will unscrew out of the switch. Can I remove the cable and use the coil wire with out screwing up the switch. If that is possible,any guidance you can give me will be appreciated. If that is not a good idea, let me know. Also, any suggestions or options you can give me will be appreciated.
Thank you for the help you guys have given me in the past.
honk1e

I'm not familiar with the swap. Is there some reason you can't use the '37 coil? Having said that I believe you can remove the cap end of the electrolock but I'd have to go look at my spare in the garage to be sure. That will have to wait until tomorrow. If it IS possible you'll have to remove the cap from the coil which can be challenging. There's a thread in the '37-'41 forum about that I believe.

I have the interlock with the coil cap off. I want to reuse my original switch but would like to remove the armored cable and cap and keep the wire for my '55 coil. If you know how to do that, please tell me how. Thank you
honk1e

It's an "electrolock" not an interlock. I forgot to look yesterday. I'll go and take a peak. If I remember right it doesn't unscrew but has a clip.

Edit: I just remembered it's the same on both ends of the cable. The way it's connected at the cap end is the way it's connected inside the housing. You'll likely have less aggravation by just using a Dremel tool with a small cut-off wheel to cut around the cable just outside of the switch housing. If you want to disassemble the switch to access the connection, The Filling Station sells a rebuild manual that shows how to disassemble the whole thing. <CLICK>

One approach you might want to consider is to completely replace the electrolock ignition with an aftermarket key switch and 6 volt coil. Then sell the electrolock assembly.

I hate to see someone destroy a good electrolock when there are people who want to keep their vehicle original.

In fact I had to search for one to convert my '37 back to an electrolock. It had been converted to a simple on-off key switch with an exposed wire to an aftermarket 6 volt coil. It was pretty ugly looking under the hood because they had to mount the aftermarket coil "right side up". The coil mounting holes on the 216 head are positioned for the "upside down" coil of an electrolock.

Excellent point Rusty. I used to see butchered electrolocks on ebay all the time. I don't peruse ebay much these days so I don't know how plentiful they are now.

Thanks for the correction. If it will involve ruining the original switch, I will check into getting an after market switch. Thanks for the help.
honk1e

I did a 12 Volt conversion on my 1938 Chevrolet, but was able to maintain the original electroloc on the new coil. Here is a link to the process

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php...rolock-on-a-12-volt-coil.html#Post324469

the pictures are no longer there, thank you photobucket. If you read thru and are interested, I can email you the pictures.

Yes, I am interested in how you did the conversion. There were no pictures on the site. I the could e-mail me the pictures, I would really appreciate it. I am replacing the 216 in my '37 p.u. with a '55 235 engine.
Thank you
honk1e@aol.com

honk1e,
If you are staying with 6 volt, you should stay with your original coil and electro lock. A '55 coil is 12 volt.

Mike

Yes, you're correct. I'm using a regular 6 volt coil. I decided not to use the original coil and switch at this time. I just want to get the engine running now.
honk1e

Can anyone tell me how to remove the ignition switch from the dash of my '37 Chevy 1/2 ton pick up? I am trying to replace the dash throttle knob and cable but it looks like I need some elbow room to get a wrench in there to get the nut off the underside of the dash. If removing the ignition switch first is the best way to go; I need advice on how to remove it. I see a small hole in the face of the switch (about 1/32) and two opposing holes on the side collar of the switch.

It looks like I may have to remove the ignition switch and the light switch as well. It there is an easier way to replace the throttle cable I'd love to know how.

Thanks for any assistance.

Bruce

It has a nut on the dash side as well. The job is easier if you have an old 9/16 wrench that you can make a specialty tool out of as I did below.