Looking at the rivets going through the torque tube into the coupler. Want to check bearings etc. Not sure how this all fits together. Can anyone enlighten me as to how to remove (and then reinstall) these rivets and the coupler? I see that Filling Station has them and the coupler available. (I did a search for this info here and was unable to find what I needed). Thanks.
Not a quick job so unless really necessary you might want to try checking without disassembling the rear. Drain the oil and note any contaminants especially gray sludge indicating flaking metal. Otherwise you will need to remove the differential completely and then the three pinion locking screws. The driveshaft and pinion are then driven out of the tube. The coupling rivet will need to have the peened over head drilled or ground off and then driven out. If not replacing the pinion and the coupler is tight best to not disturb it. All of this is explained in the service manual and if you are going to do the job then I suggest you get a repair manual and parts manual before starting. . They are available from the Filling Station and other sources.
Got the rear disassembled already. Looking at the bearing inside the tube, and I guess there is a seal in there also? Just dont want to put it all back together only to have a defective bearing or seal. Pinion locking screws - do they just turn in until tight, or are they also used for adjusting or centering? Driveshaft and pinion is driven out from front to rear - bearing and seal are removed then also?
No seal-it's an enclosed driveshaft. The three screws lock the pinion in place. They are tapered on the end and when tightened force the pinion bearing tight to the housing. Is the complete rear end out of the car? Torque tube and differential? With the differential and ring gear out stand the torque tube and pinion assembly on end and tap it spline side down on a block of wood to drive the pinion-bearing-coupler and drive shaft out. Check the drive shaft for wear in the bushing area. The seal and bushing most likely will need replacing also . Be careful when removing and put the same shims and bearing spacer back in if you replace the bearing.
Much of what you are asking is explained in the Chevrolet Repair Manual. If you don't have a reprint of this manual you can get one from the Filling Station in Lebanon, Oregon.
Also, keep in mind that if you replace the pinion bearing be aware of the number of shims that are used for adjusting the pinion gear mesh with the ring gear. Some shims might have to be added or removed depending upon how the pinion gear meshes with the teeth on the ring gear.
Car is completely disassembled. Rear end out. Diff out of housing. Probably get new pinion bearing and bearings for diff. So the only seal is the one at the front end?
Thanks.
Yes that is the only seal for the driveshaft.
Great. Thanks all. Got everything out of the tube - definitely need bearings. Pinion bearing not bad, but the smaller one behind (what's it called?) it is shot. Any tricks to remove and replace? Got the coupler and nut off. Just the race left from bearing so tapped it off. Probably order from Filling station unless someone knows of any other preferred suppliers?
I have the repair manual, but it seems to written for mechanics (which I am not) and lacking in detail for a greenhorn like me. Any better manuals out there?
Thanks again.
Might want to try your local bearing distributor.
I see tapered roller bearings or ball bearings available. Is one better than the other?
Probably a good question for the supplier you choose. Start with the number off your old bearing and then ask why you should choose one over the other.
did a bit more research. Tapered roller bearings are better because they can handle more weight, and they are also able to handle thrust.
While the tapered roller bearings may handle more weight and thrust it's important to note the situation at hand. The ball bearings were standard and adequate when the 32 cars were built so while tapered roller bearings may be better for some applications it does not mean that they are necessary. With limited use at reasonable speeds (32 is not a high speed car) it could be more practical to stay with the original style bearings. Either will work fine .
The front pinion bearing is a double row angular contact ball bearing(New Departure P/No. N5206)which will handle both radial & axial thrust loads and fits from 1930-1936 passenger cars,while the rear pinion bearing is a maximum capacity(has about 3-5 extra balls in the cage),and is New Departure P/No.N3307,and fits from 1925-1932 passenger cars,and it also doubles as the rear axle shaft bearing for 1925-1931 passenger cars.
Thanks Steve and CJP. Filling Station has a front bearing kit which includes the tapered roller bearing so that's what i am getting. Question about drive shaft components between coupler and diff. There is a large collar around a tapered sleeve. The collar is tapered inside. It was installed with taper opposite to the sleeve it sits on. Looks backward to me Is this correct? Also the three set screws on the torque tube - what do they tighten against when everything is reassembled?
My book does not list a collar only a lock sleeve which the three lock screws mate to. What manual do you have and is the collar shown?
There should be in this order the following:
(1) Pinion shaft locknut
(2) Pinion adjusting shims & spacer ring(approx 3/16" thick)
(3) Front pinion bearing
(4) Front pinion bearing locking sleeve(with the tapered face to the rear of the car,or towards the pinion gear),which the tapered locking screws push the pinion assembly forward as the tapered faces of the screws push against the tapered face of the locking sleeve.
(5) Bearing spacer(this cast iron hollow spacer sits between the front & rear pinion bearings),whether they be the original maximum capacity rear pinion support bearing and the original double row angular contact,or the newer taper roller front pinion bearing you're trying.
If you're going to change the front pinion bearing to a double row? taper roller bearing,or 2 single taper bearings back to back,be careful how much pre-load you set the taper bearing/s up with.
Thanks all for the info! Don't have my new bearings yet. Will reference my service manual when I get them and keep in mind info given here. Many thanks. Suggested pre load? Very slight?
Suggested pre-load on the taper roller bearing setup would be to tighten the pinion nut up(not excessively tight) while rotating the taper roller bearing to make sure the rollers are seated properly.The back off the nut to introduce some endplay,then re-tighten the nut to remove the endplay,and nip the nut up about 1/4 to 1/3 of of turn.Rotate again to check the drag on the taper roller bearing,and if not excessive it should be OK.