VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Tech Talk Vehicles in temporary storage

I would like to bring you up to date on a problem that came up last fall. I take care of several cars/trucks that are owned by one of our club members. Over the years the owner has built a new house and car show building. This all started with moving his fleet from storage into the new house and eventually into the show building. This turned out to be a lot of fun as each round trip was approximately 200 miles. This transfer of vehicles was accomplished some three years ago. The vehicles were initially moved into temporary storage at the new location as the show building was still being completed. The vehicles were mainly Chevrolet cars and trucks, but also included some with only 4 letters in the name. Condition of the vehicles ran from Concours level down to original vehicles.

In the process of moving these vehicles around at the current location, for the purpose of visitors, and normal operation to keep them fresh, two of the vehicles failed to start. This was a 1947 Coupe and a 1941 ½ ton pickup. These two vehicles are the bases of the collection and both have received frame off professional restorations. The coupe has approximately 25 miles showing and the truck about 50.

Starting procedure was to remove the air filter and place a small quantity of raw gas in the carburetor. As the vehicles had sat for a long time, the fuel in the bowl of the carburetor had evaporated, and without priming them an additional load would have been placed on the battery and starter. A 12-volt battery is normally used for these cold starts. The jumper cable is connected to the top connection on the starter (+) and the other cable (-) is attached, only during the attempt to start, to a good connection away from the engine such as the bumper bracket or any other accessible location. The selection of this distant location is to reduce the shock of the 12 volts on the system. The jumper cable is removed the instant the vehicle is started.

When a vehicle failed to start and it was determined that both spark and fuel were present, the valve cover was removed to observe the function of the rocker arms and pushrods. Here is what was found.



And several of these.



Some more background. The fuel that was in the fuel tanks had been there for as long as 10 years. Both vehicles were equipped with locking gas caps. Both of these two vehicles were stored at all times in such a manner that they were inaccessible to anyone intend on doing harm.

Will hold the story here for discussion on why this happened before I continue.

A couple questions:

Was the location of storage in a climate controlled environment or was anything exposed to extreme heat/cold?

Did the owner have bad karma?

How long had the engines sat since the last operation?

Looks like the classic example of valves sticking in their guides.

Cause-10 year old gas forms a varnish on the valve stems.Never try to reuse fuel that is over two years old.

Procedure that may have eleminated the problem.First drain the gas tank and replace with fresh.Remove valve cover and lubricate valve guides.ATF or MMO prefered (by me) as it penetrates better than motor oil and has more of a solvent action.Turn engine over slowly (not 12 volts) to check valve action.If a valves shows evidence of sticking loosen rocker arm and slide over and tap stem with hammer.I would also dump some of the oil down the carb. throat.Would not have tried to prime until the engine has turned over a bit.

Sticking valves could also have been caused by rust on valve stems but varnish most common.

From personal experience I vote for rust on the valve stems. The first time I restored my '32 Roadster pickup the valves and guides were replaced. Over a 10 year period the truck was only driven a couple of hundred miles. Three times during that time one or more exhaust valves stuck and bent push rods. Since a number of times when the temperature dropped moisture condensed on the engine it is likely that some moisture was also drawn down the valve stems. Eventually enough rust built up to stick the valve. The head was never taken off and the valves freed by tapping on them with a brass hammer with atf on the stem. Once freed and the push rod straightened the engine ran fine.

When the engine was checked during the second restoration the valves were pulled and each one that had stuck at least once had noticable rust on the stem. Some others had a little but not as much as those that stuck.

In case there are non believers. It is the same mechanism that puts water in a gas tank. The tank warms during the day and gas (or air) is expelled. Then at night the temperature drops and moist air is drawn into the tank. Some of the moisture condenses and drops to the bottom of the tank. The gas layer keeps the water from evaporating. Eventually enough water is condensed to rust out the tank.

The only remedy is to keep the valve stems oiled and or run the engine frequently. It will not help the gas tank. Keeping the tank full is the best or adding gas drying agent is the preventative.

The 216 and 235 engines Both mechanical and hydralic lifters and also some of the not so old V/8 engines do this, after long term storage, if they aren't properly prepared for starting (pull the plugs) and lube the cylinders , valve stems and rocker arms then check for stuck valves by removeing the valve cover/or covers , setting the points if so equipped,then turning over the engines with the plugs out before primeing. I don't think it is always caused by varnish in the gasolene. I have found stuck exhaust valves in pulled heads stored in a dry inside storage area after 8 or 10 years, it may be cathodic corrosion from dissimilar metals in the valves and valve guides, some of these valves were rusted and corroded to the point that the stems bent when tapped with a brass hammer.

That is why I drown out my engines with MMO when putting them away for the winter.A good way to lubricate the guides from the inside-as well as valve seats. cyl. walls, etc.Used to do it when engine was hot-now do it with a cold engine so it dosen't burn off the "interior" parts as fast.Also coats in inside of the exhaust system.

Gene, I don't think we can emphasise that winterizing process too much. It would make a good article for the G&D and also for the regional newsletters. My problems of this nature have occurred in cars I have bought from someone else and also preparing some 1984 & 1985 company cars for auction in 1993 that were surplus and had been stored after the oil industry went south during the late 80s and early 90s. They had been driven to an out of the way place turned off, batterys and keys removed and left as is without any thing else being done.

In the mid to late '50s the 1954 and up F*#d Overhead valve V8s would get "stuck valves" after sitting on the used car lot.This would take only a few weeks.Would bend the push rods also.

As a point of clarification, these two vehicles receive the best of treatment. In fact when they were move here, these two vehicles had to be moved in closed trailers. Although not in a perfect controlled environment, they are kept in a heated basement and in the show building. That condition is both good and bad. They can’t be run in their stored location and must be moved outside because of the exhaust fumes.

When the problem was discovered, I was not equipped to work on them at the time. My first thought was to bring them back to my shop to make the necessary repairs. This is about 100 miles one way and again a closed trailer would have to be used.

Decision was made to make another trip and work on them at the storage location. Something that you may not have thought of is the difficulty of working on a show car/truck at any location. I don’t even want to think about causing damage such as a dropped wrench on the fender, slamming the head into the firewall or radiator. However, the biggest problem is how many tools do you bring and what parts will you need.

I made a decision, based on the fact that both vehicles had been run fairly recently, that I could remove the rocker arms and with a brass drift and hammer, with volumes of oil on the stems, loosen the stuck valves and complete the job on site. So that is how I loaded up to make the next trip.

I took a trusted helper along and made the trip. Immediately it was noted that none of the stuck valves could be forced open. Only solution now was to remove both heads and take them back to my shop.

Back at the shop it became even more evident that the valves were not going to cooperate. In the long run it took soaking, hot water, solvent, and as a last resort, they had to be PUSHED OUT SLOWLY WITH A PRESS .

Take a look at these pictures.


Note the black substance around the valve face and on the cylinder head.


Black substance on the valve where it seats and also on the stem.

Isn't that picture interesting?

In looking at the last picture note that the valve has only one ring around the stem. Don’t second-guess; we will get to that point.

Ray, I was talking to a machine shop owner that does a lot of valve-in-head work. He had a rash of valves sticking in older 6 cylinder engines (235 Chevrolets)after running for several hundred miles of highway driveing. He thinks it was because he was useing modern valve guides and was fitting them to modern engine specs. and maybe the older heads should have more valve to valve guide clearance.
Has this been a subject on the Stovebolt engine site or on the Inliner's site that anyone knows about?

Chev Nut
What is MMO that you refer to for winterizing?

Marvel Mystery Oil-It is a light oil-comes in a red bottle (older versions were in a can) is also red in color and has an undescribeable nice smell.
The engine pictured looks as if it would have taken more than a MMo treatment to have prevented the problem.

That is strange looking stuff on the valve and the valve stem, is that what it looked like when it was dissambled? Black and deep purple? Any clue as to what it is? Maybe cotton candy? ...or radiator stop leak?

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess ethylene glycol contamination from a defective head gasket. (Although it was mentioned that hot water was not successful in removing the valves.) I hope this is not not the case however as this would make the condition of the rings and bearings suspect as well. Has the engine oil been tested for contamination?

-R

If antifreeze and oil mix the result is a thick tan mayonnaise looking sludge. It is an emulsion (stable mixture) of water, glycol and oil. Carburetor cleaner or other similar solvents will break the emulsion to the component parts.

I suspect the crud is hydrocarbon based. It could come from oil breakdown or gasoline oxidation or similar source. Oil subject to exhaust gas or excessive heat will form a gooey sludge. When modern gas evaporates it forms an effective glue. Typically it is a dark brown color but die in different brands of gasoline can change the color. A good carburetor cleaner should cut either oil residue or gas kruddd.

I haven’t forgot you guys. Just extremely busy. Made another trip to work on both the truck and car and will report later.

This will answer one question:

I would not susoect the problem to be caused by a coolant leak.When I removed the cracked head from my '39 the cylinder with the crack had a rusty combustion chamber, valves-including the seats and the cyl wall itself.If it would have had cast iron pistons the piston would also have had rust on top.I still suspect some combination of old gas and moisture caused the problem unless there was another problem unknown to us.

Looking at the colour of the substance that has locked up the valve stems, also the glazed appearance around the head of the valve on the combustion chamber.I would say that when the engine was put to-gether some one used too much form-a-gasket,like lock-tite 515 or equivalent.Such a product has an anearobic hardener in it.It will stay in a paste consistency until it finds a tight space to sit in.Then hardens up.I have repaired a lot of engines due to excessive sealant usage,it seals where you want and some times where you don't.
This is only an educated guess

Hi Gang,

I have not left you, just extremely busy.

Take some time and see if you can figure out what this item is. Will tell you all about it when we resume.

I know I know! :eek:

Don't know how it got that way though.

Looks like an electrical do-hicky to me!

We will take a Left turn here and discuss valves and seals, but we will return to the main subject in due time.

Just for a point of reference I would suggest you take a few minutes and go HERE . When you go pay particular attention to valve/guide clearance. When you are up on 4-cylinders, come on back and we will continue.

This is a picture of the typical valve seals used on the Chevrolet 6-cylinder engine.


This is an aftermarket seal and was designed for a specific purpose.


What do we have here?


Going back to the last picture of a previous post we made note of the rings on the stem of the valves. To refresh your memory we are working on two engines, one from a 1941 truck and one from a 1947 car, but both 216 engines. How many rings should be on these valves and why? It is obvious from the picture we only have one ring. Is this a problem?

PROBLEMS TO THINK ABOUT.

1. Under what conditions would you use the small “O” ring seal?

2. What conditions would exist for you to use the “Umbrella” type seals.

3. What engine used the “caps” and why?

4. Is there an occasion where you would not use ANY seal?

{I have another trip planned next Monday to continue work on both vehicles. Will bring you up to date after that trip}

1. "O" ring seal is used when there are two grooves machined on the valve stem. One is for the o-ring and the other is for the keeper.
2. Umbrella seals can be used when there is no machined groove on the stem. Sometimes the valve guide boss can be machined to hold the seal in place. There just has to be clearance so the spring retainer doesn't smash the seal.
3. I am not sure about the caps-they don't look like valve rotators to me- are they designed to lessen the oil flow down to the valve?
4. My guess is you do not want to use a seal that would cut down on the amount of oil needed to lubricate the valve, causing possible seizure.
Just my opinions in trying to answer!!

Problems to think about----------

1-Under what conditions to use the O ring.The O ring type seal was introduced in 1948.The valve spring retaining cap was also revised to accomadate the O ring.Keepers remained the same.Shortly after that time Chevrolet discontinued the single grove valve stems for 1941-47 and the two grove valves were used-this required replacing the "cap".----The two grove O ring type seals are still used to this day.Were used on both 6 and 8 cyl. engines.

2-The umbrella type "tin" caps that were placed over the valve stem and retaining cap were introduced in 1941 and used on the intake valves only.This was done to "controll" the amount of oil running down the guides.The oil caused three problems.The oil would cause carbon to form on the valve stems (valves could stick).Exhaust smoking on restarts and after periods of engine ideling and Oil consumption.In 1946-47 the caps were added to the exhaust valves also.Eleminated completely in 1948 due to the improved O ring seal.Many mechanics discarded the "tin" caps after the cars logged on miles.This was because as the became loose on the valve stems they caused valve train noise.They were often refered to as "rattle caps".

3-The rubber or plastic umbrella placed on the valve stem under the cap is a modern item.It also deflects the oil from running down the stem.I have these installed on my 1934 and 1939.The ones I used are also used on late model small block V8 Chevrolets.They move up and down with the valve.Have been running them for years with no problem.At one time it was thought that the guides needed lubrication.It was found that they do better on modern engines if run dry.

4-Is there an occasion where you would run no seal?...In a 4 cyl. as no oil is supplied to the valve train.Also if I had a 1929-33 6 cyl. I would consider not using a seal.

The above is a combination of Chevrolet facts plus my opinions from past experiance.It is all truthful to the best of my knowledge

Where does all the time go? Spent all day Monday working on the project vehicles.

The 1947 car is almost finished. Redid (complete boil out/dip, this removed the tin coat so it was necessary to re-tin the tank after closing some 14 rust holes) the gas tank, cleaned fuel pump, cleaned filter and tried to do a field cleaning on the carburetor. Fresh gas with MMO and “STA-BIL” mixed in was added to the cleaned tank. Car ran fairly good, however it was obvious the idle circuit in the carburetor was plugged.

Based upon the findings in the gas tank of the car I decided it was necessary to go back to the truck and pull the tank on it also. Was a wise decision.


Yes, that is the removed gas gage sending unit from the truck.


This is the sending unit sitting on top of the hole it was removed from.


This is a scraping from the bottom of the tank with a screwdriver.

In removing the tank from the truck it became obvious that the entire system was again infected so I also removed the carburetor from the truck along with the filter. The top of the fuel pump was removed from both vehicles in order to clean the valves properly. When the top was removed the valves in the truck were “welded” shut by the culprit.

This entire process has been a lesson in trying to accomplish difficult tasks away from the shop. I have remembered to take every tool necessary so far, with the exception of the small clutch head screwdriver to remove the slats in the seat of the truck, and the fuel-sending unit.

Curious to see if “Dopey” made the correct guess on the picture posted earlier of the car fuel sending unit?

To refresh your memory, both of these fuel tanks were professionally cleaned and re-tinned at the time of the original restorations. The same vendor did both tanks. I returned the car tank to the same vendor. I reminded him that he was the one who cleaned the tanks originally. When I picked up the tank it had been cleaned, re-tinned and COATED ON THE INSIDE WITH A JELLY LIKE RED SUBSTANCE WHICH HAD SEMI-HARDENED. I am familiar with the “yellow-snot” we used to use and the current “white-snot” but not the red material used. I have not contacted him to find out what this material is but will do so.

In vehicles that I have restored, I did NOT coat the inside of the tanks after they had been cleaned and re-tinned. Knocking on wood, I have never had a comeback on any of those tanks. Is this lining material, reacting with current day gas, and left in storage for years, the cause of all the problems?


Chev Nut I have not abandoned your well thought out comments about valve seals, we will return to that subject.

I don't understand why a tank that was cleaned and retinned, unless it has many pinholes in it(is this like Galvanizing)and only on the outside of the tank?
I have fortunately never had to have this snot coating done, and I have heard many storys of tramatic results down the line after this process is done.

The only experiance that I have had with gas tank coatings is what I did for the NEW tank for my Corvair.I coated it with the white snot which was fairly new in 1990.Even though the tank was new I used the pre-cleaning process and then the sealing.Bought the "kit" at a Harley dealer.Has been in there now for 13 years with no problems.The gas in this area contains the maximum amount of ethanol etc.
The reason that I coated the new tank is because Corvair tanks tended to rust out on the bottom sooner than normal.This was due to the wedge shaped bottom of the tank and if any water was present it laid in one small area.The original sending unit was also a ball of rust.The car was stored for 15 years with no preperation.The engine its self started and ran fine.

It is not well understood but water in a gas tank is a normal situation. Most people think it comes from water in the underground tank at gas station. That does happen (happened to me once. Only got about 1/2 mile from the station when the car quit. The rest is a long sad story.). But the water in a gas tank comes from the air drawn into the tank during the cooler parts of each day. If the air gets lower than the dew point droplets of water form inside the tank and settle to the bottom. The gas on top prevents the water from evaporating. Then the next day the tank warms expelling air only to cool later on drawing in cool moist air. After a few cycles (or hundreds for the vehicle in long term storage) the water begins to build up in the bottom of the tank. A little oxygen, water and the tin coating is eaten away. Then the rusting begins. The rusting is concentrated in a small area due to electrolysis and results in a pin hole or two or three or ???.

Anything you can do to minimize the problems? Yes, keep the tank full!

---Anything you can do to minimize the problem---

In this area we have reformulated gas.It contains up to 10% methanol which is a form of alcohol.It is my understanding that the water will be absorbed into the ethanol and will blend (mix) with the gas.It is also said that its not necessary to add Heet or any gas line antifreeze here for the same reason.Am I incorrect in assuming this??

I have just returned from delivering the truck gas tank for cleaning and treatment. I had the chance to talk with an employee who has been with the company for years. He informs me that in the past they did not line their tanks and beside that they do not do the re-tinning. They clean and repair the tanks if needed and then send them to an outside source for the re-tinning. After they are returned they are lined with “Red Snot”. (Just what we need, a third color of snot). This is a commercial grade liner and although it is available across the counter, they recommend it be done in their shop. EVERY tank that leaves their shop is relined, TO INCLUDE NEW TANKS . The condition of the two tanks that I brought to his shop were similar to other tanks brought in, that had sat a long time, without a liner, and with old gas in them. As demonstrated in both tanks, the area inside the tank that is NOT covered by gas receives the worst damage. That is the explanation for the disintegration of the sending units in both tanks, damage to the filler necks, locking gas caps, and rust-through above the fuel level. This changes my procedures, in that all tanks I install in the future will be lined and "STA-BIL" will be added to the fuel.

As I was loading the truck tank for delivery to the radiator shop, this was found. This is an area above the fuel line. There are two holes in the picture.

To add to the discussion of snot, I have two vacuum tanks for my 28 Chevy. One of them I lined with white snot, the other I had lined with red snot at the local radiator shop. I started by using the former one and after about 500 miles, the white snot began to blister and flake off. I began to notice when the fuel filter between my vacuum tank and carburetor started getting plugged. At that point, I installed the tank lined with red snot. So far, it has held up quite well. Maybe this speaks to the quality of gasoline in my state but The red stuff seems pretty stable.

Regards,
-R

If the white "came off" I would say its the fault of the perperation rather than the product.There may have been some rust or ??? under it.The white has done well for me and this area has the extreem in reformulated gas.

Yes, I did recognize that as a fuel level sending unit, what's left of it. I just recently (Oct.) pulled the tank from my '40 and had it clean and lined. I don't know what color snot they used, I think it might be clearish. I took it to Mac's Radiator. But that sending unit looks trashed, irreparable. Did it arrive at that condition after a few years of "temporary" storage? Moisture/rust damage seems like it would take longer. Don't know though.

I agree with Gene. I have used the white snot (PVC) for the last 10 years or so without any problems. It requires that the tank be cleaned to metal surface. If any of the old crud remains the integrity of the coating depends on the strength of the bond to crud and not the bond to metal. We cut a hole in the top of the tank (where it will be covered), sand blast the interior, repair any holes, replace the pickup tube, reinstall any baffles, solder on a patch larger than the hole and coat. Not a failure yet.

The vacuum tank in question was sandblasted to bare metal inside before white snot was applied. I want to blame the MTBE formulated gas in CA for the problem. It tends to turn older fuel hose into a jelly-like substance and cause failure and fire in older vehicles. A couple of years ago, I received a notice from GM about my '96 Chevy CK fuel injectors. GM said they had experienced much trouble related to CA gasoline and would extend warranty coverage related to injector failure.

Regards,
-R

“ Dopey ” Good boy, you figured it out. Incidentally, Mac’s Radiator in Portland, OR was the ones who have assisted on this current project and have cleaned, repaired and coated both gas tanks. I’m sure that they used the “Red Snot” on your tank also. (We sure don’t need still another color for snot as we already have yellow, white and red).

I have just finished a thorough cleaning and disassembly of both carburetors. A considerable amount of small dark particles were removed from both units. This was obviously the “dregs” from the disintegration of the sending units and other damage. A job of this nature can only be done in the shop to be effective.

Still waiting the completion of the truck fuel tank. As soon as it is finished I will schedule another trip back up to the vehicles.

While waiting for the next posting, I suggest you go HERE and digest the best discussion about valve stem seals you will ever find in one place.

I need some help here. The truck was restored several years ago and at that time they tinned the fuel tank and left it “natural” with the exception of the filler tube, which sticks out the side of the cab some 6 inches. This tube was painted “body” color. In this case “Red”. Now that the tank has been removed, cleaned and relined the “Red” paint has been damaged.

QUESTION ;

What should be the “finish” on the fuel tank neck/filler tube (the portion than protrudes from the side of the cab)?

Ray, I am not a expert on those trucks but would suspect that the tank was put into the cab after assembly and painting. If that is the case then the neck would not be painted. If the tank was put into the cab before painting then the area behind the tank would not get painted.

I have had some experience with these trucks. All that I have been associated with have had the filler neck painted body color. This also includes the metal ring used on the 42-46 models.

DANDYD

If the tank were installed prior to cab painting the rubber gasket and filler neck would be body color. Also as mentioned, a lot of the interior would not be painted, and there would be considerable overspray on the tank.

If the tank were installed after the cab is painted, the rubber gasket would be natural (black) and the neck would be either natural (tinned) or possibly painted black?

I think the jury is still out.

ray,

we've been only through a few tanks related to our '40 kc 1/2ton, but, from what we seen, all of the overspray on the tanks seems to have been applied by subsequent owners and not delivered from the factory...

the areas under the mounting straps and the bottoms are (rusty, but) natural, tinned finish...

leads us to think that the tanks were installed after painting...

can't help you with the filler neck, because they'd all been repainted...


epi

Just goes to show ya that the best way to preserve a vehicle is to run and drive it several times a year.

Hi Gang,

Looks like I am getting a bit behind in my posting of progress reports.

The last time I was back at the scene was a disaster. The snow was over l ft deep on the access road, but with careful driving, we made it up to the vicinity of the storage building. The building was well heated so that was not a problem once we got inside.

Things went badly from the very start. We could get the truck started by priming the carburetor, but as soon as the raw gas was exhausted it would die. Finally determined the flexible hose from the end of the metal fuel line to the fuel pump was both stopped up and the rubber had disintegrated. Didn’t have an extra with me so that terminated the work on the truck.

The last time I had run the car it would not idle because the idle circuit on the carburetor was stopped up. Attempts to fix it in the field were uneventful. Only solution was to remove the carburetor and take it back to my shop. After a good cleaning of all passages we had brought it back and installed it. On the first attempt to start the car ANOTHER ROCKER ARM BROKE. This ruined my whole day. I did not have the correct arm in the goodies I had brought up so this terminated our efforts for the day.

On the long trip back to my shop every probable went through my mind as to why I would break another rocker arm. Best guess was, that because of the poor performance from the carburetor it had not run long enough to clear all the bad karma that was still present in the intake manifold and fuel lines on the last trip. Was able to run the truck for sufficient time to cleanse the system and good gas was left in the system when last run. The car however, was run for a very short time and then the carburetor removed.

This trip was back in the middle of December and for several reasons we were not able to return until 5 March.

Hi Gang,

Things were looking up so we made the journey back up to try and finish at least the truck and car.

Installed the flexible line from the end of the fuel line up to the fuel pump, removed the top of the fuel pump and cleaned the two valves, and blew out the line from the pump back through the tank. Primed the carburetor and it started and ran perfect. The weather was nice so we moved the truck outside, set the idle up and let it run for a considerable length of time.

Next was the car. Replaced the broken rocker arm (intake) and installed the fuel filter after cleaning and new gaskets. This time I took a large brass hammer and tapped on top of each valve to insure that it was not seized. Also used a liberal amount of non-chlorinated brake cleaner sprayed directly at the exposed base of each valve stem. Primed the carburetor and just like the truck it started and ran excellent. Moved it outside also and ran it a considerable length of time.

Before moving both vehicles back into the storage facility I made the final adjustments on timing, set the valves and made small adjustments to the carburetor and idle speed. Back inside, a final check was made of the operation of all instruments, all connections checked, oil and water leaks addressed and finally parked as desired by the owner.

Other than a re-inspection of these two vehicles on the next trip back up, we considered the mission accomplished. Now for the good part: A picture show.


If you magnify the picture you will see 24 miles on the speedometer. Notice the directional switch and the three flipper switches on the lip of the dash that control the heater, defroster, and fog lights.

Driver’s side of the engine compartment. Obvious accessories are the fuel filter, oil filter and the windshield washer.

From the passenger’s side you can identify the radiator overflow unit. The battery in the car is my service battery and not the correct one for show. The two castle nuts have not been installed on the valve cover at this point.

1947 Coupe with sun visor. You can see some of the owners signs placed on the unfinished wall in his future show building.

Now some views of the truck.

Almost wore out-showing 9 miles on the odometer.

Driver’s side of the truck engine. Accessories include the hood prop, windshield washer unit, fuel filter, oil filter and dual horns.
Chevrolet truck radio, heater and one of the beautiful and rare “cat’s eye lighters”.

From the right side we can see the water cut-off on the water pump, horns, hood holder, radiator overflow tank and a rare under hood light.

Another tricky job well done even with murphy showing up.
Tony

Beautiful car...

I've got a date tonight, can I have the car? I need gas money, also ............

Seems to me both could do with some healthy exercise. A pity to leave them sitting and not be seen.