VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Bent Chassis 28 Chev

Has anybody successfully straightened a bent 28 chassis? Just started looking at my basket case and discovered that at some time it has hit something and is bent. The right hand side has a 3/4" bend inwards from the front crossmember forwards (measured at the front spring eye) and is kinked in 3/4 inch at the left hand rear sping eye (front axle also). Should I dump this chassis (as rare as they are in my area of Australia)and find another or is repair feasible?
Thanks in advance
Tim Bailye.

Sorry to disappoint you MR Mack, but Australians don't call their friends 'chum'. In fact, as we become slowly engulfed by your culture you are more likely to hear us calling each other 'buddy'.
I have also never gotten closer to crocodiles than at a croc farm in Singapore. The movie 'Crocodile Dundee' is as foreign to the average Australian as it is to the average American (90% of Australians live in suburbia and a very large percentage never stray into the Australian bush). I also do not ride Wallabies, however I have shot a few hundred Kangaroos in my life, paradoxically in defense of crops contained within the American owned farm that I managed for a few years in the late eighties. (That in itself is unusual,possibly one in ten thousand Australians has ever shot a kangaroo).
I probably will have a go at straightening the chassis using techniques similar to your suggestion that I developed during my Speedway years ( racing a Chev Camaro), but I would like to hear from anyone that has had success doing so. A major concern is the quality of the metal. Does it take well to cold bending and not become brittle?
Sorry to to pour cold water on your cultural stereotyping but it wears thin after a few hundred times. After all, not all Texans are Stetson wearing, bow legged cowboys are they?
(tongue in cheek)Tim.

Tim,
If the frame is more rusted than just surface and minor pitting it could be a problem. The rusting process will weaken the metal and change the structure.

Cold bending is the recommended method as it does not change the strength significantly. If the frame is kinked it might be necessary to heat it a bit. It is generally not a problem either. Most of the time those spots are at the ends where strength is not as critical as in the center of a long section. Try to keep heating to a minimum. Remember that you will need to move it more than the final postion as it will spring back a bit. It is relatively easy to know when you have it straight. Check the frame by cross measuring and using a straight edge. Twisting can be checked on a flat floor or with a level and straight edge and/or equal length rods or chains. :)
There are many manuals on frame straightening and the local panel beater (had to get that in) can also consulted. :eek:
The key to success is to go slow and keep safety always in mind. Stay out of the path if anything slips or breaks. :eek: :)

Thanks for your imput, fellow Chev nuts. I will let you know how it goes if I decide to have a try at straightening this thing.
Now where are my spurs. Got some serious croc hunting to do on my favorite Wallaby!
Tim.

Yeooweeee! Never thought of that! (pick the non rider). Reminds me of the fellow who accidently squatted on a rabbit trap. His friend commented that it must have hurt. Not as much as when he ran out of chain he reckoned!
Tim.

Hi from NSW
'28 chassis are a 'dime a dozen' over in Sydney. I sold a good one 2 weeks ago for $50 and know of a few others available, highest price being $200 for the best you'll ever see.
Give me a buzz on my email and I'll put you in touch with some WA Chev 4 owners who maybe able to help you out
If you do straighten it, do it cold as suggested but make sure you brace the rest of the chassis as it can warp easily. You could try a TAFE college as they do this sort of thing as demos for their students, or a good truck wheel alignment joint could easily do it for you
Hope this helps

I think you may be right. Much easier to replace than repair, especially as the front cross member is pretty rusty (it could be repaired in a pinch) and there is surface rust (pitting) on the topside of the chassis where the wooden beams were bolted when it was converted into a ute.
I think my best option at this point in time is to go looking for a complete car such as an 'older restoration' and use my drive train/chassis parts as backup spares.
Thanks to all.
Tim.