Drove my 32 cabriolet in Memorial Day parade today and everything seemed fine until I was pulling into driveway when I depressed clutch pedal it went to the floor with no tension .Don't remember if I depressed the pedal and got it out of gear or got it out of gear without the clutch pedal. Anyway now it goes to floor with no tension and so it can not be shifted. It does pop back up again when foot is removed Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Carl K
Check to see IF the return Spring is still attached, pretty easy to see from under the car, typically connects to the clutch pedal see if clutch pedal is connected to the clutch fork
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Clutch spring is attached ..C the fork be seen from just looking under car. I saw arod that moved moved a little when clutch was pushed in but didn't see where it was going unless it can be seen from the other side
The clutch fork is activated by a a plate with a hole in it , bolted to the pedal, It has a bolt for adjusting pedal height, , typically the hole in the plate , wears the clutch lever where it contacts the lever, , has the plate become loose , or too worn in the hole that fits over the lever end, or has the bolts attaching the plate to the clutch pedal detached.
With apparent immediate loss of the clutch pedal adjustment, the first thing that comes to mind is the carbon ring in the throw-out bearing has disintegrated. If you remove the lower flywheel pan or see chunks of carbon drop out of the lower pan drain hole it will be a clue. The second is the clutch arm pivot has broken. If the arm can be moved up and down that is a clue. Removal of the lower flywheel pan allows inspection.
I removed the inspection cover and there are pieces of I guess the throw out bearing . I couldn't get under far enough to look up inside to see if there is more damage. Is there avideo or procedure written anywhere on how to replace all three components.I have been buying most of my parts from The Filling Station is that where I should buy them? Thanks Carl K
Make sure to use 3/8" bolts with heads cut off as guide pins when pulling back the transmission, and clutch cover. This is so as to not damage the clutch disc with the weight of the transmission hanging from the splined pilot shaft.
As you have found a mess inside the clutch cover the throw out bearing/bush is the most likely culprit. The only way I know of the fix this is to remove the transmission so the "while you are there" rule applies, easier to do now than redo it later for another issue. Tony
The guide pins I make are typically have about a 2" length of unthreaded body on the bolt. I do this because it is much easier to slide the transmission on a smooth body compared to threads.
You will probably need to buy at least a 3" bolt if not longer in order to get that much unthreaded body. Cut the head off, cut a slot into the end, and chamfer the round end. You can use a screwdriver to remove it after the transmission is in place.
Depending upon the application you might have to cut some of the threaded end off so the smooth body of the guide pin will be flush to the mounting surface. The trick i use when cutting a threaded part is to put a nut on the threads beyond where I will cut. When I turn the nut off it cleans up the cut end of the threads. A little chamfer there will also help when you install them.
i did the same thing, also ended up making a set for the head as well, same process. i cut the head off, then used my cutoff wheel and cut a slot in the ends then rounded it off with the grinder. this way i can tighten them a tad and also remove them. you can use pliers of course but i wanted a smooth shaft for sliding and not to scuff or mar anything.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
I am accumulating quite a collection of sizes, inch and metric. Once you use one set you will always take the 10 minutes to make a new set for whatever you need to assemble next. It saves you that much or more time and you do better work.
I got a rebuilt carbon throw out bearing from the filling station. The one I sent in had a grease fitting on it and the one I received had a small cap on it to put some oil in i guess. According to the filling station they said they could never figure out why the carbon bearings on the 32-37 had either a grease fittng or oil cap on them. They recommended that the throw out bearing be soaked overnight in motor oil and then wipe off excess.Does this sound right and should I also put oil in the cap? CarlK