Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#480379 04/04/23 11:03 AM
Joined: Aug 2009
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Eli Offline OP
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Waiting for the rebuild kit to come in but getting a jump on disassembly and cleaning up, I popped one of the flapper valves off pretty easily, but the other looks like it is a forged grate from this side. I so far don't see how to get to it from the other side and rather than risk breaking something, I am hoping someone with experience can give me some pointers. I appreciate any advice.

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Fuel Pump Valves.jpg

1937 Master DeLuxe Business Coupe
1954 3100 5-Window
1954 Corvette
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Stop now and make sure you have a safe place to keep the picture you shared. The 2 check valves are the same part but installed upside down. One allows fuel in and the other allows fuel out. The check valves will install either way in either hole. The pump only works with them installed correctly.

You have actually taken the one check valve apart. If you look you will see the “forged grate” still in the hole. It will have to be removed so you can install the new check valve.

You are looking at the opposite end of the check valve for the one that is still installed.

I suggest that you soak that housing in penetrating oil to help you remove the check valve housings. You want to avoid any damage to the bores where the valves seat. It is the fit between the outside diameter of the check valve and the bore that hold the check valve in place. Some people do put a few stake marks around the perimeter to help retain the check valves.


Rusty

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Eli Offline OP
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Thank you Rusty, I'll do the soaking right away. Any advice on how to remove the "forged grates" without damaging them? I am trying to imagine a tool that will work, a small bearing puller-type contraption but I don't think I have anything small enough to fit into the grate's opening.


1937 Master DeLuxe Business Coupe
1954 3100 5-Window
1954 Corvette
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 99
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Unless I am missing something the "forged grates" will be part of the new check valve assemblies. The big variable is that there are many different designs of check valves. They all fit and function that same but the internal details vary. I cannot remember seeing that style. Lots of companies made aftermarket fuel pumps for these cars. It was a pretty big market. The internal designs varied from manufacturer to manufacturer.

To be safe I would wait until you have the rebuild kit and see what style check valve you have. This will confirm that you do need to remove those "grates" and there will be no issues if they are damaged during removal.

The other reason I would not go any further right now is that I wonder what pump you actually have. Most pumps I have rebuilt have a stamped steel retainer to hold the check valves in place. The retainer is held by 2 small screws that thread into holes on either side of the housing and between the holes for the check valves.

A few years ago I bought a replacement pump from NAPA. It failed after about 1000 miles. One of the check valves had fallen out of the seat. It did not have a retainer. I installed an older pump that I had rebuilt as a back-up. It was still running fine after 5000 miles when I sold the car


Rusty

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Eli,
If your pump "core" is not a genuine AC, I would recommend you get one for your rebuild. If you need one, I might be able to help for just the cost of shipping.
The parts in your new kit will be made to fit original castings (hopefully) so your build might give more satisfactory results and you will have an correct, OEM pump.

Mike
573 864 6539. ml.russell1936@gmail.com


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

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Eli Offline OP
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Mike, thanks for the generous offer, sent you a PM.


1937 Master DeLuxe Business Coupe
1954 3100 5-Window
1954 Corvette
Joined: Jan 2009
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The picture you provided of fuel pump cover shows that you have the aftermarket or later style cover with pressed in check valves. The original AC fuel pumps had a leaf spring or retainer with 1 or 2 screws that held the check valves in place with gaskets. If the fuel pump kit you purchased has original size outside diameter check valves, then the new check valves will probably fall into the holes as the later pressed in check valves are slightly larger in outside diameter. To get these pressed in check valve out, I use a small slide hammer with a special end that threads into the center of the check valve once the cross bars are broken out.

Mike is a great fellow and if he is willing to send you an original fuel pump, I would go for it.

I rebuild fuel pumps and this is what they look like when I get done with one. See attached pictures.

Attached Images
Rebuild AC 9832 Chevy 6 fuel pump #2 .jpg Rebuild AC 9832 Chevy 6 fuel pump #1 .jpg Rebuild AC 9832 Chevy 6 fuel pump #3 .jpg Rebuild AC 9832 Chevy 6 fuel pump #4 .jpg
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