VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Oil Filter

This is just a very general question about the original 1927 chevy oil filters. My '27 has its original filter. I have done some reading and searching, and it seems that these filters cannot be opened, and when they are replaced, the whole unit (housing and all) is replaced. Is that correct? If so, how do you tell if the oil filter needs to be changed? If not, how do you open the housing to change the filter?

The whole filter assembly is replaced as a sealed unit. A 1927-1928 oil filter reproduction is available from the www.fillingstation.com part number RW-378

According to the shop manual, there is a small drain valve on one end of the oil filter can. While the engine is running, open that valve and see if any oil comes out. I believe that when the flow of oil no longer comes out the valve is when you change the whole filter assembly.

I would like to see someone manufacture an oil filter that looks like the original four-cylinder ones, but opens up to be able to use a screw on newer filter cartridge inside. I think there is a market for these type of filters.

As things are now, you have to buy a whole new replacement filter when yours needs changing.

I solved this problem with my trucks by using a 1950's style oil filter whose cartridges I can buy at the local car parts store. But, I'd prefer a filter that looks like the original (just not the price of a new one).

Here's a link to a discussion of my oil filter usage: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/400847/re-resurrecting-a-28-4-banger.html#Post400847

Cheers, Dean

Hi Dean,

I had read that in the manual too. And I agree, there should definitely be a better reproduction replacement part.

Your other post in very informative. Did you have to change the oil lines to make that filter work? It looks like you did. If that is the case, are you familiar with any set ups that allow use of the original lines with a more modern, cartridge style filter?

Thanks!

I heard about one guy who cut open an old original oil filter (or un-soldered the ends) and made his own setup inside so that he could screw on a modern filter inside the old housing and you couldn't tell from looking at it that it was modified. Beyond that, I have no idea about how he did it.

I did use the original tubing on my setup, but added new lengths of tube to make it work. Both the old original oil filter and the one from the 1950s use 1/8 NPT threads on the connections going in and out so you can get brass tube connectors at your local hardware store to change the tubing configuration around the oil filter.

Get creative!

Also, I suggest using copper nickel tubing instead of straight copper tubing. Regular copper tubing becomes work hardened and can crack. I know a guy that this happened to and his oil pump was squirting out oil while he was driving his '28 sedan! Copper nickel tubing does not work harden and I've been told it stays flexible.

Ever onward, Dean

I put a screw on filter in mine. I unsoldered the inlet end, cleaned out all the rags and oil inside, machined a threaded piece to fit the thread on the filter and soldered or welded (I forget which) that in place, screwed on the filter, and resoldered the end. The main problem was finding the proper die for the filter thread. My cost was zero since I found a filter on a shelf that used to fit a car I no longer owned. It's probably been on there for ten years now.

Thank you for the information, both sound like good options. I am a definitely a novice when it comes to soldering and welding, but fortunately my brother is a professional.

Next time I'm home I am going to check the filter and if it is still good, keep is as is so that I can use it on another project where I care about using original parts. It will be a couple weeks at least, but I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks

If I do go with a replacement filter, beyond making sure it fits (obivously) does the type or style matter?

I'm interested more in how this may work. Doesn't the oil flow in one end and out the other on the original filter setup and on a traditional (modern) filter inlet and outlet are on the same end.

I haven't looked at this for a long time but I think that's how it works. You will need some space between the intake end and the filter so the oil can go into the centre of the filter and come out of the outer holes and then travel to the outlet.

I certainly wouldn't be able to use a truly "modern" oil filter, because, yes, you are correct. However, There are plenty of '50s and '60s filters as well as tractor filters that are set up more similarly to the chevy in that oil flows through from an inlet to an outlet hole.

I did use a modern spin-on filter. You just need a gap for the oil to exit the filter and find a filter that is skinny enough to fit inside the old filter housing.

I'll have to look into this. I have an old filter here I could try to open up. It has a dent in the housing anyway so why not. It would be really ideal if it could be made to change out with regular oil changes w/o having to go through a lot of work to open it up each time.

I fantasized about replacing the outer tube of an original oil filter with a thicker tube that is in two pieces and screws together like a pipe into a coupling.

With that setup, you don't have to unsolder the ends to get at the replaceable filter inside. A groove at the end with a large o ring might be needed to prevent leaks where the two pieces screw together.

I just never got around to trying it since I installed the 1950s style canister oil filters on both of my trucks.

Dean