Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#479104 02/22/23 10:48 AM
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Hi All,

I had to replace the baffle plate in my 1927 water pump. Of course this required disassembling the water pump. Unfortunately, when I pressed the pulley back onto the pump shaft, the top of the pulley split, ruining it (this was my first time ever touching a metal press). I was able to find a replacement pulley, but it was difficult to find and expensive. My takeaways from my first attempt are:

1) Be sure to heat the pulley up a lot before beginning to press it back on
2) Use a large impact socket to evenly press on the pulley
3) Make sure the pulley is sitting evenly on the pump shaft
4) Press the pulley ALMOST all the way down to the housing, but not completely

Any other things to keep in mind or watch out for so I can do this successfully?

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Make sure you are supporting the back end of the pump shaft when you press on the pulley. Otherwise you could improperly load the bearings or push the impeller against something.


Rusty

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In 2017, I rebuilt the '28 engine in Lurch (see links below).

Here's the part where I rebuilt the water pump: Rebuilding a '28 water pump

If you want to read about the whole adventure, it starts here: Resurrecting a '28 Four Banger

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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That was very helpful, thank you! From your post, it doesn't sound like you used a metal press to put the pulley back on the shaft. What was your procedure?

Last edited by 1FineFin; 02/22/23 04:35 PM.
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Hi Rusty,

I take that to mean that I need to sure the impeller is sitting flat on something before I start to press, is that correct?

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If the impeller and shaft are flush that may work but I think it best to have a spacer that fits under the shaft only -could be as simple as a flat washer or a socket.


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I agree with Steve. Even just a smaller washer underneath the impeller end of the shaft will work. That will ensure that all the load when you press the pulley and hub on to the front end of the shaft goes through the shaft. There will be no load on the impeller.


Rusty

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After re-reading my post from 2017, I see that I did not use a hydraulic press to put the pulley back on.

Since the new shaft was flush with the new impeller on the backside, I stood the water pump up on a steel plate, heated the pulley with my propane torch (to expand it a little), placed it on top of the shaft, placed a short piece of pipe (I seem to remember it was a 3/4" NPT pipe nipple around three inches long), and pounded the pulley onto the shaft with a hammer (hitting the pipe nipple). Maybe not the safest way to do it.

Recently, I rebuilt the water pump of my '28 Canopy Express. To put that pulley onto the new shaft, I used a friend's hydraulic press. On the rebuild kit for this project, the pump shaft was not flush with the impeller. It stuck out a little. So we put a flat washer under the impeller so that the end of the shaft was touching the steel plate under the whole assembly and the assembly stood erect. The key thought is to support the end of the pump shaft during the pressing operation.

Then, we used a large impact socket on top of the pulley and pressed it onto the shaft. Cold, not heated. We were careful NOT to push the pulley all the way to the pump housing, but just a few thousands away from it so the pulley could turn nicely and not bind on the housing.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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The water pump pulleys on these old cars are just not mounted on there with that tight of a resistance fit. I usually use a steering wheel puller to remove the pulley. To push it back on I would use a bench vise, or a "C" clamp. Both work just fine. Now the impeller onto the shaft might require more force, and or some heat. I have used a bench vise and a piece of pipe over the shaft. Growing up in rural Oregon we did not have access to things like presses and other tools that a regular shop would have, so we would have to improvise. Or drive into town and see if the local shop could spare the time to fit us in. If you wanted it done in a timely manner you would have to do it yourself. Besides I have generally found many small repairs are best done by hand. You have more control than can be obtained with a large piece of equipment.

These cars were designed so that an ordinary backyard mechanic/car owner could perform 90% of the work on his car. He would not have had access to the equipment many shops would have either.

Art

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Thank you everyone for all the advice. The shaft and impeller are flush on this assembly, but I think I will still use a small flat washer as suggested to ensure that all the pressure is on the shaft itself. I will be home on spring break soon, and I will let you all know how it goes.

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Hi All,

I successfully reassembled the pump and drove her for the first time since the 1990s! Thanks for all the help!


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