Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#475560 10/28/22 09:36 AM
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Eli Offline OP
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Skipping the lead-up, I have 4 exhaust valves well and good stuck with 4 bent pushrods to prove it. I can budge the valves with my dead blow, but they are far from moving freely. I've been soaking them with alternating baths of PB Blaster, MMO and acetone/ATF, no noticeable improvement. Needless to say, pulling the head is the last resort, any other suggestions on freeing things up? All ideas welcome and appreciated.


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It will take some time but tapping the valve down and have the spring start to bring it back up will eventually loosen the rust and allow the valve to close.

My concern is that the rusting in the valve seats and on the valve sealing surface will eventually require you to remove the head to have them resurfaced. You will know when you do a compression check after the valves do close.


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It is most common for the intake valves to stick.
Considering the things you have tried I would remove the head.


Gene Schneider
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Other than being HEAVY pulling the head is no big deal. To fix it right and do a thorough inspection that's what you'll need to do.


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Eli Offline OP
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Thank you each for your input and confirming my suspicions. The reason I hold out hope that freeing the valves might be sufficient without pulling the head is that until I laid her up for a few months installing the front mounts, it ran so well and so smoothly. It started on command and never gave me any trouble. I'll keep at it for another week then bow to the inevitable if that's where I end up. Still open to suggestions on better/alternate solvents to use.

On the topic of pushrods, both COTF and FS carry replacements, does anyone have experience with the quality and fit? I've been watching for any NOS to come on the market with no luck so far. Thanks everyone.


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IF you still have your original lifters and pushrods the pushrods sold by Chevs of the 40s will not work with your stock lifters. It appears the pushrods being sold by The Filling Station are correct. No reproduction pushrods were available when I had to replace mine for the same reason you are. As a consequence I had to replace my lifters with the 1940 milk can lifters as well as the shorter pushrods that they use. Now that The Filling Station has a source for the longer pushrods you can reuse your cup type lifters. I have no personal experience with the long pushrods being sold by TFS. For what it's worth because of the low valve spring pressure of the 216 you can straighten your bent pushrods and reuse them if need be. Google videos for how to straighten pushrods.


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Eli Offline OP
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Thanks Tiny, I am all for DIY and saving a buck or two, but it's hard to believe a straightened rod would have the same strength--or am I just being a granny?


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The stock pushrods are very thin for the length. The relatively weak springs are what allow it. If you get them relatively straight they should be OK. It's imperative that the valves not be sticking or they won't stay straight long.


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They are very easy to strighten. Roll on a level surface to check for amount of bending and bend bavk as necessary. It is easier than you think and can be 98% perfect.

Th 1937-1939 push rods were 12 47/64 " overall lenth.

IF THE SUPPLIERS ARE SELLING THE SHORTER ONES THEY CAN BE USED BUT THEN YOU HAVE TO USE THE 1940 AND UP LIFTERS.

I may have some used push rods from my 1939. I installed hollow

push rods in my "39 years ago.


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Gene, if you'd be willing to part with them, I would rather buy used original than new aftermarket, there's no telling where the new stuff came from.

I have 3 of the 4 valves moving freely and am making progress on the last one, praying that the valves will seal. Tiny, I like your optimism on pulling the head but experience tells me that at least one stubborn bolt will need to get drilled out in the block and that will turn it into a whole different ordeal. I sure don't want to have this happen again, my uncle used to occasionally spray WD40 into his tractor carbs while the motors were running until they killed. He swore by it but it seemed to me that it would not have any lingering benefits beyond the next startup. Still, after this experience I'm thinking of giving it a try.


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Here's three methods for getting rusted, stuck bolts out of a block:

1. This is a good video that shows an old school technique for removing rusted bolts: Technique to remove rusty bolts without breaking them

2, John Thorpe (VCCA member 51593), who is a Certified Caterpillar Mechanic, says he heats the bolt up, then shocks it with a ball peen hammer, and then puts water on it to shrink it.

3. I've snapped off water pump bolts before on my '28 engine. The middle of the bolts run through the coolant and corrode terribly. When I pulled the pump off, part of the bolts were sticking out about 3/4" from the block. I heated the bolt and the block around the bolt with a propane torch and touched the hot metal with the bottom of a candle. The wax melts and wicks down the threads to lubricated them. Then, I grabbed the bolt with vice grip pliers and it walked right out of the block.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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I sent you a PM with the facts. Bounced back for some reason.
Price quoted was $6 each + $15 for shipping.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 10/30/22 10:18 PM.

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The 1934-1937 engines had weak valve springs but had helper springs above the lifters. The weak springs could cause the valves to stick (and burn) if the helper springs were removed and stronger valve springs not used,
The 1938 and up stronger valve springs must then be installed which also result in quieter valve train action.


Gene Schneider
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Eli Offline OP
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I finally gave in to the inevitable, the head is off and ready for disassembly and cleaning. In anticipation of completing the task, I am going to put a new coat of paint on everything and remember reading a post a while back about the correct color of paint and which of the suppliers carries it. Can find no sign of that old thread, can anyone resurrect their memory and point me in the right direction? Thanks.


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The Filling Station sells the widely accepted color of gray engine paint.


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