Hi, I hope someone with engine rebuild experience can help me. It's a 1933 Chevy, original barn find with a 194 cu. in. 6 cylinder. I have removed the cylinder head to be sent out for repair. The old copper head gasket did not appear have any gasket sealant applied. I'm wondering do copper gaskets need sealer, or just assemble without it?? Also, I disassembled the rocker arm assy and noticed oil holes in the shaft at each rocker arm. I believe that the holes face down towards the head. Can anyone confirm this is the correct position?
Thanks to all who can provide info on the above! Doug
On my 1934 master 207 engine.. all the holes in my rocker arms are facing up (on the top of the rockers)... Aren't they the same for the 194 engine...???
The holes in the rocker arm shaft face down. The holes in the rocker arms themselves are visible from the top. The oil flows around within the clearance between the bore of the rocker arm and the shaft. Then it flows out the hole in the top of the arm.
Hi Doug. If the cylinder head is not cracked i assume your machine shop would resurface the head. I have had trouble with water leaks from the head gasket when using a nos steel gasket and copper spray. The leaks cause the engine to use water but on a compression test all cylinders show 100 lbs. I noticed that the block surface showed corrosion around the water holes in head and block. To repair i used Permatex No. 3 around all the water holes on head and block and a composite gasket. I tapped all the bolt 1/2 by 13 holes and torqued to 65 lbs. I also used corrosion inhibitor and not anti freeze in the radiator to reduce water leakage. So far no leaks.I fill the radiator to just see coolant at the filling neck to make it easier to monitor coolant loss.
Thanks to all for your info. Ed, you are correct, it is a 207cu. in. My mistake. Is there a definitive method from Chevrolet regarding the use of gasket sealer on a copper head gasket? I know many have their preferred method, just wondering if the is any from the manufacturer. Rusty 37, can you advise on this? Thanks again to all for your input. Doug
Doug, If all your surfaces are good, you should not need gasket sealer for a copper gasket. There is no harm in using a sealer and it provides some extra insurance against leaks in case there is some surface problem.
Hi, Now that the head is off the engine, it seems that I need all new intake and exhaust valves. 1933 6 cyl. 207 cu. in. Does any have, or know of a source for these? Other than The Filling Station ??? Thanks again for any help...
Seeing I am in the business of selling engine gaskets including head gaskets both new production and NOS copper, steel and corbestos and my 35 years experience as a heavy truck technician, this is my take on replacing a head gasket on any engine. First off, the critical areas of a head gasket are the head gasket fire ring area and any water hole areas. Any deviation of around .003 of an inch in the fire ring area or erosion of this area will cause problems especially near any water hole. It is hard to believe this but an engine with a blown head gasket if ran long enough will actually erode the cast iron at the head and/or block area of the blown head gasket. Just replacing the head gasket will not fix this problem. I may be good for a very short while and that is all. I suggest using KW copper coat or a similar product as this leaves a flexible coating between the head gasket and the cylinder block and head. This also seals any minor imperfections such as scratches, etc around oil and water passages. Copper coat will not seal the cylinder head gasket fire ring area. Attached to this reply is the article that I created for installing a head gasket and a scan of the inside back cover of the 1963 Victor gasket catalog on how to install a head gasket. These 2 articles I send out with every head gasket or engine overhaul set that we sell. Also ALWAYS RETORQE THE HEAD BOLTS AFTER THE ENGINE IS AT OPERAING TEMPERATURE WITH OUT A LOAD APPLIED TO THE ENGINE (cast iron head) AS THIS SETS THE HEAD GASKET. This is for any head gasket be it copper, steel, corbestos, etc.
I have may intake and exhaust valves to fit 1933 Chevy and other years. Before I sell any valve or engine parts for these old Chevys, I always request the engine block and cylinder head casting numbers as you never really know what you have for an engine by just looking at it or someone telling you what you have when the car is bought or sold unless you actually check these numbers.
Thanks for the above info regarding the head gasket. I have located a set of valves and already installed. Does anyone know the correct torque for the head bolts for my 33 Chevy Master 207 c.i. ?? I recall reading that someone posted 65 ft. lbs. Can anyone confirm or advise?
Does anyone know the correct torque for the head bolts for my 33 Chevy Master 207 c.i. ?? I recall reading that someone posted 65 ft. lbs. Can anyone confirm or advise?
