My dad collected cars and automobilia since he was a kid. Since he was born in 1927, that amounted to a lot of cars and "stuff". One of my favorites was a 1940 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan he bought in 1975 and sold sometime while I was in the Army (1987 - 1994).
Here's her story. A salesman with Malcolm Brothers Chevrolet (Belle Plaine, Iowa) decided the purchase a black 1940 Chevy Master Deluxe 2 door sedan from the sales floor because he was sure that the impending war would limit automobile production soon. He put the car away in a concrete garage and did required maintenance on the rare occasion that he drove the car. Although availablility of cars did become somewhat limited, the lack of income did hurt his plan of quick returns. So, he held on to it until 1975 when he sold it to my dad. Still all original except for some paint repair in ~1977 from a small underhood wiring fire and later in around 1980 dad had someone repaint all four fenders. The fender repaint was a terrible job and dad always regretted doing it. Today, the paint on the fenders is absolutely the worst part of the car.
My dad was a member of a local antique auto club here in Iowa and I spent nearly every late Spring, Summer, and early Fall in the back seat of that car. We would participate in almost every parade, car show, and club cruise. I loved that car. The smell, the sounds, and the ride. There was nothing else like it.
Sometime during my time in the military, dad sold the car to buy something different. I never thought that would happen....but it did. In 2001 when my dad died, I had lost track of the car and began looking for it. For almost 10 years, nothing. No trace. Then, one afternoon in 2012, I was driving in an unfamiliar part of my town of ~25,000 people and turned around in a driveway. The garage door was open, and there it was! I tried to buy it on the spot, no dice. I kept trying over the years with no luck. Then in 2019, I read the obituary of the old gentleman who I was trying to buy her from. He was unfortunately a victim of Covid. After almost 3 years of legal issues with the estate, I was able to make a deal with the family and I brought her back into my family this past July.
As soon as I got her home I started changing fluids, checking bolts, and letting her run for small periods of time as I made sure she was safe to drive. I was pleased to find out that all fuel had been drained, brakes had been completely serviced, and she was stored with no weight on the suspension in a climate controlled setting by two different owners spanning almost 30 years. The bad? Not much really other than a dent put in the driver's rear quarter and fender by another car in the owner's garage and some other issues I'd say would be expected for a car her age.
My plan? Fix what needs fixed to be safe and roadworthy - I don't want to hurt her, and I don't want her to hurt me. I want to drive it like it was supposed to be driven and just enjoy her.
I was pleased to find a group of guys that seem to have the same feelings toward these cars as I do. I look forward to being able to lean on you guys for information and support, and I hope to be able to do the same for you all!
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Welcome, that looks like a nice 40 to enjoy the way it is just getting the maintenance up to date. We would welcome you to our local region, most meeting are in the Cedar Rapids area.
Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
Welcome to VCCA. I am originally from Iowa. Graduated from Union Whitten High School in 1959. 7 years in the Navy. Been her in Napa since 1968. Good looking 40. My folks had a 40 4 door in the late 40's.
1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20 1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010 1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End
I actually have a photo I took back in around 1978 of the only time that tire was used. It was on the passenger rear when we had a blowout! It was only on for a few miles to get to a station in our hometown of Marshalltown, Iowa.
Given the fact that almost all the 70,xxx miles on the car were put on by my dad, I know most of the details to many of the "warts" this car has. For example, I know why there is a red stain on the rear carpet, seat, and side upholstery on the driver's side (not able to be seen with the seat in place). Strawberry Crush ~45 years ago. Pre-10 year-old me was never allowed to have a drink with color on a trip again? I had totally forgotten about that until 2 weeks ago when I removed the rear seat while cleaning/inspecting!
I have found my dad's tools in various places in/under the car over the past couple months. I can identify them because my brother raced dirt late models in the 70's/80's around Iowa, dad marked his tools in a specific way with colored electrical tape so he could quickly identify them at the track so as to not lose them. I have also left his strategically placed wooden clothes pins on the fuel line.
I have also left his strategically placed wooden clothes pins on the fuel line.
I saw that in your pictures. I suspect it has a weak fuel pump. Something to consider while you're looking for parts. OEM looking fuel pumps are getting pretty rare but there are rebuild kits available.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
Not sure I understand why a clothes pin would indicated a weak fuel pump. I think it is more likely there as a heat sink to reduce chance of vapor lock. That was a common thing back then. Doubt it really helped.
Not sure I understand why a clothes pin would indicated a weak fuel pump. I think it is more likely there as a heat sink to reduce chance of vapor lock. That was a common thing back then. Doubt it really helped.
Dick
You answered your own question. A weak fuel pump is the primary cause of "vapor lock". The pump is too weak to overcome the heated, vaporized fuel. Clothes pins were a "fix" (heat sink??, insulator??) to keep the heat out of the fuel that generally didn't fix anything.
Last edited by Tiny; 08/28/2210:18 AM.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
The clothes pins were placed where they are by my dad to help with vapor lock. As of today, we haven't experienced any fueling issues at all. But to be fair, the longest drive we have undertaken was to a car show last weekend that was ~ 20 miles away.
The clothes pins do nothng. Vapor lock occurs in the fuel pump and the line from the gas tank. Vapor lock it when the gas boils and turns to vapor and the fuel pmp can not pump vapor. That is why you pour cold water on the fuel pump when you get vapor lock. Any flat head Ford owner knew this.
As I have been reading through the forums and asking questions, I have learned a lot about the details of the design and interesting parts originally on the car. Thank you to everyone who I have "bugged" to get details!
The information I have gained has made me change my mind about the "leave it alone and drive the wheels off of it" approach. I'd really appreciate any feedback on whether my thoughts are feasible or worthwhile. Please keep in mind as you read on, I am NOT interested in attempting or starting a full on restoration of this car. I'd like to stay within the rules to show the car as original/unrestored but am unsure what can be done to make her stand out as much as possible without crossing the line.
1) I've been cleaning the engine bay and trying to document all the part numbers I can to determine what has been changed over the years causing original components to be missing. If at all possible, I'd like to try and locate some of the original parts as I can. This seems logical to me because most of the original items could be purchased fairly inexpensively and rebuilt. Seems to me that in the end, the final prices would be very similar to buying a reproduction part. As of now I haven't found a lot that one wouldn't expect to have been replaced with something not exactly the same as original. These would include the battery, radiator/heater hoses, ignition coil, plugs/wires, and carb/riser. There has been some minor modifications done to the wiring at the ignition coil but the Optilock armored cable and cap are still in place (just not used). What actually is the definition of "original" or "survivor" with respect to components like those listed above that are no longer original parts/part numbers? At what point does it no longer deserve either title and it becomes a "restoration"?
2) After participating in my first show with her this past weekend, I would really like to take the time to detail and touch up paint some of the underhood and undercarriage components (valve cover, battery tray, etc) using period correct materials and correct colors. However, I don't want to take away from the originality of the car. What can I do that will keep the integrity of the originality of the car but allow me to put some of the color back on some items?
3) The car's wiring appears very, very good in the passenger cabin and trunk. However, as expected the engine compartment wiring leaves a lot to be desired. I am now planning to replace the wiring from firewall out with modern wiring and hardware that appears period correct with correct markings. I assume that changes like this for safety/preservation are not looked upon negatively. Is there a % of replacement on systems like this that can still allow the car to be considered original for show purposes?
4) Same question as #3 above for non-safety items such as floor and trunk mats, weather strip, etc.
5) All 4 fenders were painted in the early 80's after a wiring fire on driver's front (and gas spillage over the years on the passenger rear). The paint job had lots of orange peel and after fighting with the painter, my dad gave up and buffed them the best he could. As you can imagine, the paint on the fenders are horrible today compared to the untouched factory painted body. The car has no rust but there is a dent in the driver rear fender and quarter panel to be repaired. The will have the driver's rear fender and quarter straightened and re-painted and a repaint on the other three fenders. Then the fenders will be worked to match the rest of the body as closely as possible. Any suggestions on paint type that I should insist on with the painter both from an originality/matching the original body paint standpoint?
People I have talked to about this car always advise me to do what I want with this car and not wory about what others think. But I feel like less of an owner and more of a caretaker of her for my dad. I wish my dad was here so I could do things the way he would if it were still his car. It is my guess that there are likely many in this forum who think like my dad thought, so I value everyone's opinions.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts/information - as always, it is appreciated!
In my opinion painting just the valve cover makes the rest of the engine look worse. Unless the VC is completely bare or rudted I would leave original Do not use strong detergents to clean onde the hood. Can destroy old paint. If you can find some Arcrylic black Dupont paint it will look as original as you can get. The correct black cloth covered lacqured plug wires with angle terminals are available,
Clothes pins on fuel lines have disturbed almost as many internet pixels as those disturbed by ethanol fuel.
At one time, it was thought by many car enthusiasts (with absolutely no scientific proof) that the clothes pins would magically eliminate vapor lock.
To this day, I have yet to see any scientific proof that the clothes pins do more than create conversation.
OP - concerning finishes: the original carburetor in 1940 would have been a Carter W-1 tag number 420s (or 838938 if it were one of the carburetors produced by Chevrolet under license from Carter).
The cast iron part of the body and the steel dust cover were painted "Carter special carburetor black", long since gone, but 60 percent gloss is very close.
The steel linkage items would have been electroplated with white zinc. The white zinc color may be approximated by high heat aluminum engine paint.
As far as whether or not to paint? Your choice, but doing just a little (like Gene's comment on the valve cover) would stick out like a sore thumb.
Jon, You are not differing from me but agreeing. I woud not be caught dead with clothes pins. Since 1973 I have drived my old Chevrolets a combined total of over 130,000 miles going to meets and cars shows. Temperatures often over 100 degrees in Kansas and Nebraska and never had a vapor lock problem WITH NO CLOTHES PINS.
Jon and Gene - I don't disagree with either of you. I highly doubt that there is any data that would support that the clothespins do anything at all.
That being said, I will leave them there for as long as I have the car just out of sentimental reasons and because it does cause conversation and questions. That gives me a chance to tell the story - and I think right now people need a story with a positive ending.
The clothes pins were placed where they are by my dad to help with vapor lock. As of today, we haven't experienced any fueling issues at all. But to be fair, the longest drive we have undertaken was to a car show last weekend that was ~ 20 miles away.
If I understand correctly the clothespins were put on over 30 years ago by your dad and subsequent owner left them on. Amazing
Yes. The owner my dad sold it to drove it home and parked it for many years, then sold it to another gentleman who did the same. The car did not see the outside of a garage from around 1988 until I purchased it this summer (except for the two times it was driven home by a new owner). Interestingly enough in the 20 or so years I was searching for it, the car was never more than about 8 miles from my house.
These things DO exist in barns, garages, etc all around us waiting to be discovered!
When I read this I could not believe it ! My grandfather was Walt Malcolm and he and his brother had Malcolm Bros Chevrolet in Belle Plaine. They owned the dealership until 1959. I had always wanted a car that they would have sold and I found a 1940 Chevrolet in Moline Il. It was amazing when I read your article ! A great story. I always wished a had asked more questions of my grandfather. he died in 1976.
I still have the 1940 and enjoy driving it every summer ! We will need to meet up someday and compare our cars.
I love the story and it seems being a part of its original ownership so many years ago really adds value for you. Not dollar wise, of course.
I am in the process of taking possession of a 1941 and have been reading everything that might pertain to my old car. Thanks for sharing your memories and pics of this fine old Chevy.
A long time Chevy lover. First car 54 chevy Bel Air, second car 1955 Delray. Current Chevys 2023 Camaro, 1955 210 Delray (show car), a 2020 Chevy BoltEV and most recent purchase, 1941 Chevy Special Deluxe.
Nice project! I agree with the under-the-hood paint discussion. The fenders are a different story. I've been working on all kinds of paint questions related to my '45 Pickup. I think you probably want to match that super well-preserved original paint of the rest of the car. 1st, know that 1940s paint is no longer available. You will have to use some form of modern paint... that historical code numbers are totally obsolete for. However, I think paint-to-match is well within reach. But, IT WILL TAKE AN EXPERT. Have it done professionally, and don't scrimp on the cost? Have the Pro responsible for the final surface treatment of the whole car. Let him know up front, exactly what you are hiring him to do.
You actually have 3 "zones" to address: exterior body, interior & under-hood/undercarraiage. IMO, you want to aim for consistency. This can get confusing. Your plans will change thru the process.
In general, I recommend Googling your questions. Tack on VCCA if you want archives from here. Tack on "forums" if you want archives from other organizations.
I saw that in your pictures. I suspect it has a weak fuel pump. Something to consider while you're looking for parts. OEM looking fuel pumps are getting pretty rare but there are rebuild kits available.
