Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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As some of you know... I bought a 1934 town sedan that was pretty complete.. but had been sitting outside for 50 years... not running.
so I have been slowly taking care of things.. that need to be repaired or rebuilt.. pulled the pan and it looked fairly clean in there... (no oil sledge... smooth shiny cylinder walls.. and I tightened up the rod bearings by taking out some shims... they looked good too and I lubed them before reinstalling.. Under the valve cover.. was clean and tapped the valve stems and none were stuck.... cleaned the oil pump screen... installed a new gas tank & new radiator... had the generator, W-1 carb & fuel pump & water pump rebuilt... new plugs, points, condenser, rotor, wires.... new baffle behind the water pump... new fan belt... and soaked and flushed the block/head with EvaproRust.... installed new wiring harness, 6 volt battery & heavy cables.... oh yes, when I first got it, I pored some Marvel oil down plug holes in each cylinder and let it soak for months, before turning by hand...
Now, I used the battery and starter to crank it.. (with plugs out, coil disconnected and fuel to carb shut off....) I cranked it for a good 5 minutes, with the valve cover off to see if I could get oil flowing up to the rockers.... NO OIL at 5 minutes.... the pan was filled with 10-20W but the oil filter canister, I did not fill.... Maybe that is why.. no oil got to the rockers.....
My question.... how long should I crank it with the starter to get oil showing at the rockers...?? I do not want to pull the distributor , and used a drill directly on the pump... unless that is the only way.... What about, hooking up coil, plugs and gas to the carb and firing it up... to get oil up to the rockers...?? ADVICE Please....


1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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Many of us use a shaft in a drill to run the oil pump when working to start an engine that has been rebuilt or idle a long time.

On my ‘37 I was able to get oil flow to the rocker arms in less than a minute. I had someone watch the oil pressure gauge. It registered pressure in about 15 seconds after I started running the drill.


Rusty

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Could you please post a photo of the type of shaft you used.. so I could make one if necessary.. and if I was to do that,..... when I remove the distributor... where is the best place to mark it... and how is the best way to get it back in the exact same location before it was removed... as I remember the shaft turns as the gears are being meshed when replaced... I sure hope I don't have to mess with the timing.. but it might be the only way.....


1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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I use a screwdriver with the handle removed in a battery operated drill. Remove dist cap and mark with a koki pen on the distributor rim where the rotor points to at the time you remove the cap. You might have to turn the oil pump shaft slightly one eighth of a turn or less anticlockwise to get it to seat properly afterwards. Now to fit that spring loaded screw under the distributor. If the distributor is not seating down on the block correctly it is difficult to start that screw with the fingers.

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Does the dash gauge show pressure during cranking? If it does not you have another problem. Show show about 5 pounds of pressure,

How is the oil filter plumbed in? If it were mine I would remove the filter and throw it away,


Gene Schneider
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if you do have oil pressure during cranking you can remove the rocker arm oil line on the LEFT side of the block. The line passes thru the block between # 3 an #4 cylinders and connects to the oil distributor valve if I remember correctly. With the line disconnected and the oil gauge registering pressure oil should pump out at that location. If not aan oiling problem. If it does you can try blowing out the line. The line OR the hollow rocker arm shafts may be plugged with old hardened sludge,


Gene Schneider
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AND IF YOU HAVE NO PRESURE SPINNING IT OVER WITH THE STARTER YOU WILL HAVE NO PRESSURE TURNING IT WTH A DRILL.


Gene Schneider
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I will check for pressure while cranking with the starter... I will have to ask my wife to look at the gauge for me, while hold the hot cable from the battery on the starter.... the oil filter has two lines that go down below the intake manifold by the oil filler spout... and the line for the oil pressure gauge comes off of that same brass tee.... Gene are you saying those remote frame filters are next to useless ???.... doing very little filtering of the oil..??


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The by=pass filters do work but are unessary for limited old car use unless you live in a dusy area. Take the filter pressure line or the valve train oil line off the T and see what happens. The problem could be in that area.


Gene Schneider
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Moving right along... I made some progress today... I took the remote Fram oil filter off... and unhooked the oil pressure gauge line off of that 'oil distribution unit'...... cranked over the engine and oil came out of the bottom hole only (the smaller hole the gauge line hooks to) nothing out of the top hole where the line to the rockers hooks on.... see photos.... so I took off and cleaned the 'distribution unit'.... and I used air to blow out the line from the rockers to the 'distribution unit' (wish I knew what that thing is called).... any way... then I had my wife watch the oil pressure gauge... and after less than a minute of cranking.. the gauge read 5 lbs.... and oil was pumping out of the upper (larger) hole of the 'distribution unit' which will get connected up to the rockers.... Then I was going to put the brass tee back in the top hole.. but first I took it apart to clean it up... and I noticed that the brass fitting that the rocker tube threads onto... has a VERY SMALL hole on the end that threads into the tee and a larger hole that threads to the rocker tube....(it was clogged),,,, HERE IS MY QUESTION.... wouldn't that very small hole (about 1/32"),(second to the last photo).... really reduce the flow up to the rocker shaft...?? all other lines and brass fittings have a much larger hole (about 1/8")... Is the oil flow going up about (10") to the rockers supposed to be so restricted at the 'distribution unit'..????? See Photos....

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Last edited by WildernessTruck; 10/13/22 08:26 PM.

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If you don't have regulated oil to the rockers you will be sorry.


J Franklin
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The regulated rocker oil flow is to ensure the main bearings get sufficient oil spray while allowing enough oil to the rockers that dont have the movement that the lower parts do.
Tony


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The main bearings get full oil pressure. The oil to the connecting rods and rocker arms get reduced low pressure from the oil pressue regulator valve.

My feelings are with the low volumn and pressure of the original 207 engine vane type pump the oil filter can bleed off too much of the oil flow.

Te replacement gear type oil pump kit would be mpre necessary.


Gene Schneider
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OK... let me see if I am hearing all three of you correctly.... You are saying that the unit (oil pressure regulator valve), that I took off and cleaned that has the connections to the oil gauge, another up to the rockers and that the brass tee fitting going up to the rockers is SUPPOSED TO HAVE that very small opening up to the rockers.... to limit the rocker flow and allow more flow to the mains... Correct..???
And Gene is saying the remote oil filter takes away too much oil from the rockers, with the vane type pump.... Gene suggests installing the gear type oil pump kit for greater flow.... Correct...??? Who sells that gear pump kit for a '34 master..???
I can disconnect & plug off the remote oil filter connections ..... for now... so that I can get this engine running again.
Please let me know if that fitting coming out of the oil pressure valve is SUPPOSED TO HAVE that small hole up to the rockers....
Thanks for your help, Sunny

Last edited by WildernessTruck; 10/14/22 10:48 AM.

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I am not sure of what I am seeing in your pictures but is the fitting with the small opening intended for the oil filter flow?
It is had to believe cold #30 oil at 50 Deg. would flow thru that small opening. Some oil filter installation kits came with a restricted opening for the filter to prevent the filter from stealing too much oil from engine lubrication


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I agree with Gene about that restrictor. I think it might be in the wrong leg of the tee.

I suggest that you remove the tee completely and connect the oil lines as they were from the factory.


Rusty

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That small opening is threaded into the top of a brass tee... the large, side opening of the tee had the oil filter line threaded into it.... the upper hole in the tee had this fitting with the small opening threaded in... the small opening fitting goes to the line that feeds the rockers... my Question is, again... Does the line that feeds the rockers need that small opening...???? It puts out Very Little oil to the rockers.... Other people posting answers here say that the rockers SHOULD get VERY Little oil... so the mains get more....
Again my Question is... IS THIS SMALL HOLE IN THE LINE GOING UP TO the rockers, the FACTORY Means of Restricting oil flow to the rockers ....??? Or is the flow restricted elsewhere...??
Maybe I could get my answer in another way of asking...... How & Where is the Flow to the rockers reduced...??? (207 engine)

Please note that I have completely removed the oil filter..... I have removed the tee.. and now threaded the fitting with the small hole directly into the top hole of the Oil pressure distributor unit it goes from there to the rockers... (no filter)

Last edited by WildernessTruck; 10/14/22 03:34 PM.

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The oil PRESSURE is reduced (not restricted) by the oil distributo valve on the side of the engine.
YES, the rocker arm oil line should go to the large opening AS i SAID EARLIER the flow to the filter is reduced so it does not starve the engine oiling system.

Chevrolet did not make that filter and to be safe Fram used the special fitting with the small opening.


Gene Schneider

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