I am chasing oil leaks on my 29. In my short time as a 29 owner, I am starting to appreciate the wisdom that to stop a 29 from leaking oil, drain all the oil out.
Before taking things apart, I would really appreciate your input. It really looks like I have oil leaking from where the torque tube enters the differential housing. There are some set screws and lock nuts on the differential that appear to hold the torque tube in the differential housing.
My questions are: 1. How is the torque tube secured in/to the differential housing? 2. Is there a seal on the differential end of the torque tube?
The torque tube is riveted to the housing that bolts to the axle housing. There is a gasket between these parts. I have never had leaks there. If the bolts are tight then it is not likely to be leaking. If one of the rivets is loose a small amount of oil can escape.
The three set screws with locking nuts hold the pinion bearings in place and with the proper load. Don't mess with them unless you have a pinion bearing problem. If you suspect one is leaking then backing off the locking nut while holding the set screw in place and then adding a sealer under the nut might help.
Most often the leaks are from the ball housing that surrounds the U-joint. Gasket/shim/o ring sets are available to help reduce leakage. Don't expect to have long term success keeping that area from teensy amount of leakage.
Thanks a bunch for the info. I have all the gaskets for the ball and even a new bushing and seal for the propeller shaft. Hopefully those parts will fix most of the leaks. Kerry
It may have run down from the ball or been blown back from the wind, while driving. I've been watching/wiping/checking for several months and it sure looks like it's seeping through the pinion set screws. I'll probably just do ball gaskets and propeller shaft bushing/seal and live with it if it still leaks. I'm really loosing steam on chasing oil leaks.
lol, i was told long ago that if these old cars are not leaking/dripping then time to add oil :)
no gushers but a drop here and there for me.
also make sure the levels are correct and NOT overfull. overfill trans, leaks into the u-joint then down the tube to rear end then down the shafts out the ends onto brakes and all :!
not really many seals on these old cars
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Thanks for the info. I've enjoyed your posts and your documentation of your work on your car. You've done an awesome job.
Whew, I did all new seals in the rear end and an extensive 4 corner brake R&R a couple of weeks ago. It had a bad oil seal which got oil on the rear left brakes. I DO NOT want to go through that again. I already did the rear main clearance. Hopefully the torque tube will be my last item. After that, whatever leaks, leaks.
Hey Guys, I am not sure anyone is still following this thread, but I finally got around to tearing things apart. From what i've been told, it looks like the torque tube has been removed from the diff carrier. Attached is a picture. The torque tube is secured with studs and locknuts, definitely not rivets. These studs and locknuts are where I keep seeing oil dripping. Oh well, I replaced the propeller shaft bushing and seal along with the ball gaskets and seal. Hopefully I reduced my overall leaking. Time will tell.
Those bolts are definitely not original. Someone many years ago for whatever reasons performed a back yard/barn fix. Do not pull the SLOTTED retainer bolts without being fully committed to the project with the differential cover off and a good understanding of how they are utilized.
Where is Terrell? If it is anywhere near the west coast we can probably find you a replacement 3rd member housing for your '29. You may have to drive some distance to get it, but it is an option. While the cast 3rd member parts from 1925 to 1929 are somewhat interchangeable the '29 3rd member housing is a stand alone unit due to its length. The '28 housing is about 1-1/2" longer and the '30 differential is mechanically different. I have not heard of anyone trying to bolt a '30 3rd member unit into a '29 differential. The '30 3rd member should be the same length as the '29. The common rear end gear ratio from 1929 (3.82/1) is different from both the '28 (4.13/1), and the '30 (4.11/1).
Art, Thanks for verifying my suspicions, that the diff carrier and torque tube have been separated at one time. The rear end functions great and everything looked great inside. I was just chasing oil leaks. Before replacing the bushings, gaskets and seals, I kept seeing oil dripping off the bolts that are now holding the two together. It appears the new torque tube bushing and seal is now keeping the oil from this area and the bolts are not leaking anymore.
I forgot to count the teeth on the gears to verify the gear ratio while it was apart. We use the car for local pleasure only. It will run 50 pretty easy, which is pushing the safety limit of the steering (next project).
I don't think I have ever seen anyone do that. When we are on a good straight highway I can run our '29 up to 55mph. It is not hurting it a bit. I watch the temp gauge and use a 4 blade fan. When exiting the highway I try to cool it down before coming to a stop.
I have the steering box apart now. I will have it back together tomorrow. Turns out I have a 31 steering box. I installed new sector shaft bushings. Everything else looked great. Hopefully I will now be able to safely hit some short 55 runs. So far, the only time the temp creeps up is at extended red lights.
WooHoo. The steering box rebuild took about 75% of the slack out of my steering. Yay, It no longer heads for the ditch when I hit dips in the road. I now feel safely in control running 50. I think a drag link rebuild kit will make it even better, but I'm not sure I'll be pushing her much faster for her own good.
I live in a rural area with 55-60 MPH speed limit roads to get anywhere. Some roads do have big shoulders, so I can get out of the way when folks stack up behind me. Oh well, i'm still way cooler than they are, rolling in the 29.