Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 470
Likes: 33
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 470
Likes: 33
1941 Master Deluxe, 216, Carter carb, replaced fuel tank but kept lines same length. Filter brand new and gas can be seen in it. It is prior to the pump.

The car will start up no issues if it has been driven within a day or two. It will require a longer crank if it has sat for any period of time. I am not using the choke, have not needed to as long as I am willing to let it crank.

My understanding is gas is evaporation out of the carb while it sits and I just need to get it to the carb. Since it is a mechanical pump it must sit and crank.

Here are my questions.
- To avoid stress on the starter and battery I will not crank for longer than 5 seconds at a time. Is this reasonable or a myth for this car?
- The choke would not help this situation since it is not needed when the car only sat over night. The choke may be needed if it where colder out?
- When hitting the starter we see the starter bar also is connected to the accelerator and gives it a little gas thus no need for us to do that.

It runs so I just want to make sure I am doing the right steps to get it going.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
Online Content
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 99
You are correct that the issue is related to gas evaporating from the fuel bowl in the carburetor.

One trick that I learned from Gene is to pump the accelerator pedal about half way down and release it. The little reservoir for the accelerator pump is better sealed than the float bowl. So gasoline does not evaporate out of it as quickly as the rest of the float bowl. That small shot of gas helps things start quicker.

Also, I do use the choke even if it is warm. The richer mixture starts faster.


Rusty

VCCA #44680
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700
Likes: 141
For cars with the Starterator working and correctly adjusted you automaticaly open the throtle when starting'
For 1938-1948 with floor starter the hrottle is opened 1/3 automaticaly when starter pedal is depressed


Gene Schneider
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 75
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 75
I don't worry about anything less than about 15 seconds of cranking at one time.
I've actually cranked a lot longer than that at times and have never melted the solder out of any of out starters.
I'm of the mind that too many very short bursts on the starter put unnecessary wear on the engagement mechanism (bendix drive or whatever).

Don't want to hijack the thread but, my '46 has a different peculiarity.
Cold starting it starts almost immediately, runs a few seconds, then inevitably dies no matter what I do to keep it running (choke, pump the gas, different throttle settings, whatever).
Then after cranking a couple more revolutions it starts right up and runs fine.
It does this whether I begin with or without the choke out.
Starts fine after the first start.

Last edited by Stovblt; 08/30/22 01:21 PM.

Ole S Olson
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 470
Likes: 33
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 470
Likes: 33
Originally Posted by Chev Nut
For cars with the Starterator working and correctly adjusted you automaticaly open the throtle when starting'
For 1938-1948 with floor starter the hrottle is opened 1/3 automaticaly when starter pedal is depressed

Ours is between a quarter and 1/3 down when hitting the starter. Did not know it was called a Starterator. When we first saw the pedal move as we started it we thought something was wrong until we looked deeper and saw how it is all hooked up.

Thanks for the tip on the choke. I was using the small motor mentality as that was my point of reference dealing with a choke. On the ones I have had it has been temperature based on if I needed it or not. This is my first car with a manual choke.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700
Likes: 141
YOU DO NOT HAVE A STARTRATOR. The starterator was on 1933-1937 Deluxe models. there was no starter button or pedal. To start the engine ou presssed down on the accelerator pedal and the starter was activated.
As soon as the engine started the starter kicked out.
Was used on some 8cyl. Pontiacs is the '30s ,Buick up into the '60s and some old Chryslers.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 9
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 9
My 48 sets of a week or two. I pump it a few times and pull the choke all the way out. It starts fairly quickly. Guess I should time it so I can have a reference.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 45
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 45
My 38 & 55 both often sit long enough for the gas to evaporate from the carb, requiring extra cranking. I thought about how the fuel pump will develop pressure in the line to the carb and hold it for a long time. That led me to figure that I could save the starter somewhat by cranking just long enough to actuate the pump lever once, then waiting maybe 10 sec for that fuel under pressure to flow through the carb needle valve and into the bowl. Then crank again for 1 pump lever actuation and wait again. I find that doing that about 4-5 times gets either car to start, and it's not that much cranking.

How much cranking gives one actuation of the pump lever? When you crank the engine, and it makes the sound "R-R-R-...," each "R" is one piston coming up against compression. So for a 6 cylinder, "R-R-R-R-R-R (6 "R's") means 2 turns of the crank, one turn of the cam, one actuation of the pump lever. For an 4 cylinder it's "R-R-R-R", for an 8 cylinder it's "R-R-R-R-R-R-R-R."

I'd be interested to know if you think I'm onto something, or all wet.

Joe


Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 91 guests, and 22 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
SabrinaKarras, Speedy1
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,072
Posts429,077
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5