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#474491 09/22/22 11:17 AM
Joined: Jul 2022
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Primo Offline OP
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I traded a bike for this roadster last month and took a couple of trips around the block. I'm still trying to decide on a plan of attack on what I want out of it but I figured I would address some issues. My two major concerns are a massive oil leak from behind the crank pulley and a leaky gas tank. I sent the gas tank to my buddy that builds chopper gas and oil tanks to have it recreated. I should have it back with a nice copy in a few weeks. The oil leak I'm fixing myself.

So today, yesterday actually, I started pulling the front end back off. I hoped to get by just pulling the radiator but my puller is too long and runs into the front pan and guide for the crank. Not much progress and it looks like I'm pulling the rest off next weekend.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Last edited by Primo; 09/25/22 06:07 AM.
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Hello Primo,

So 1930 was the first year for a "vibration dampener" on the Chevrolet 6 engines. It is not like modern dampeners in that it is composed of 2 separate pieces connected by internal springs, not rubber. When pulling this dampener from the engine it is important to follow a different procedure than any you might be used to. If I remember correct the 2 bolt holes are actually designed to lock the 2 parts of the dampener together instead of being to pull it off. Then you use an external puller to pull it off instead of a "crows foot" type puller. Same when reinstalling the dampener. You need to put 2 short 3/8" bolts in those holes to lock it together and a 1-1/2" or 2" pipe over the hand crank spiral so as to not damage the spiral when pounding it back on. A large block of wood used outside of that spiral will work as well.

How much oil are we talking about? If it is a slight drip that may not be all that problematic. If it is a fair sized amount then you probably should investigate. The assumption is that you want to pull the front timing cover off. Bear in mind you will have to pull the oil pan as well. There is no actual seal on the front of these engines just an oil "slinger" to keep the oil squirting on the timing gear inside the engine. That timing gear cover has 3 bolts that go through the front main bearing section of the block from inside the pan. One of those bolts also retains the front main bearing bolt lock. The oil pan has its own sequence of being reinstalled so as to not plug the distribution tubes that supply oil to the oil pan troughs.

Please keep the forum posted as to your progress.

Art

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Primo Offline OP
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Hey, thanks for the tips. I'm seeing a massive amount of oil, enough that I can clearly follow my short run to the end of the block and back.

Thanks for the tips I have both types of pullers but can't find a 30-service manual. The ones I have are from 32 and 34, they don't go into much detail. I did order all of the related seals and gaskets, and I figured the pan may be coming off. Looking at the images I was going to use some spacers to cinch up a crows foot puller so the two pieces are held together.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Last edited by Primo; 09/25/22 06:09 AM. Reason: Fixing images
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Primo Offline OP
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I found my leak. It wasn't an easy fixe like I hoped. I pulled the harmonic balancer and started it up, no visible leaks. Stuck my head underneath and saw this crack. I haven't dropped the pan yet but I'm pretty sure that it is part of the engine casting. Sorry for the bad pictures, I was stuck up underneath trying to get them.

Front of engine:

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Coming into the back of the timing plate:

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


That massive crack is leaking.

Last edited by Primo; 09/25/22 06:12 AM. Reason: Fixed images
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Primo Offline OP
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So looks like that is my front crank cap, anyone know where I can find one? Trying to just run this engine until I can get a fresh engine built. My book says casting 836287. Assuming part number 362781.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Last edited by Primo; 09/25/22 06:05 AM. Reason: Fixing images
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Primo Offline OP
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Picked up a bearing cap from Dave39MD here on the vccachat. Went ahead and pulled the oil pan, the old bearing fell out with the cap. There were no shims up there, so.it must be loose. I wasn't hearing any knock like the manual says I may. I guess I need to order some plastigauge and check clearances when I reassemble. I understand I should line bore it but I don't feel like tearing this engine all the way down and I have a line on another running 30 engine.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

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If the replacement cap is machined to a different place than the original the crank may not turn, .001 will make a big difference.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
1 member likes this: Primo
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Primo Offline OP
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Originally Posted by tonyw
If the replacement cap is machined to a different place than the original the crank may not turn, .001 will make a big difference.
Tony

I hear ya. I'll spend some time shimming and measuring and trying to ensure clearances. If this is an excessive in futility and I'm out $100 bucks and a couple of hours that's ok. The car isn't drivable now and if it's not after I throw this cap on I'm not really losing much. If it gets me on the road for even a hundred miles that's cool also. I don't plan on this being a long term fix if it works, just something to have a little fun before I start tearing things apart.

Last edited by Primo; 10/01/22 10:04 AM.

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