Its been a little while since engaging the forum. I am still working on my "New to me 38 Master Sedan". I am trying to remove my oil pan, after removing all screw and four 1/2" bolts I thought it would drop out but Nooooooo. A friend said his dropped down easily but the crossmember with the rear engine mounts seem to be stopping pan from dropping down. -Do I have to remove crossmember to remove oil pan and will my engine be supported by the transmission mount? -Because I have to remove my motor mounts too, this would be a good time if possible. Thank you Michael
The back of the engine and transmission is supported by the big crossmember that is riveted to the frame. You must unbolt the small cross member right behind the pan. The engine side mounts are bolted to it but they do not hold engine r transmission weight.
Check page 157 of your shop manual for details about how to adjust the mounts.
You do need to remove the intermediate cross member in order to drop the oil pan. If there is a lot of load on those side mounts you should probably check your front engine mounts and the transmission. They are possibly oil soaked and have settled.
The purpose of the side mounts and cross member is to control the torque reaction of the engine. They do not support much if any weight of the drivetrain.
Wow, what a difference doing the job with all the info needed. Dropped the crossmember and pan dropped down, sweet. Dirty mess in there as the images reflect. Not sure the oil was ever changed.
That looks really clean compared to mine. I measured 5/8” of sludge in the pan. The oil pump pick-up screen floated in my parts washer because it was so covered with sludge.
That looks familiar to nearly all of the older (and some late model) engines I have looked in. 1 engine I looked in had more gunk in the rocker cover than you sump has. It wouldnt hurt to lift the rocker cover and side plate and clean in there while the sump is off and then all the top end gunk can fall out the bottom without collecting in the now clean sump. Tony
I will be cleaning everything I have access to and it all started with changing valve and pushrod cover gaskets. While removing gaskets and messing around did i discover engine shifted with little force sibi now have front and rear motor mounts to install
Cleaning all the gunk out of the oil pan. Any suggestions on cleaning oil veins? The oil pan is complicated unlike modern pans and I assumed it is the lack of an oil pump pickup? -Checking bearing clearance is Something I have never done but assisted in building the engine for my 47 Plymouth and do remember the babbitt bearings.
I am a little confused by your statement about the lack of an oil pump pickup. There is one that is attached to the bottom of the oil pump. It is probably a good thing that it did not lay in the bottom of the pan. It would have been plugged by all the gunk from non-detergent oils.
I shot carburetor cleaner down the main feed and made sure it came out all of the 6 nozzles that spray towards the rod caps. There were a few that were heavily restricted. I pushed safety wire through them to really clear them out sort of like a Roto-Rooter. The oil troughs and nozzles are the only way that the rods get lubricated. Only the main bearings are fed oil directly from the oil pump.
Then I made up a connection to the water hose to check the aim and flow on all the nozzles. The shop manual has great instructions about doing this.
The shop manual also has very good information about checking and setting bearing clearances on the mains and rods. It is a lot of trial and error so it becomes tedious work. Plus I spent the few bucks and bought a real flywheel turning tool. It made things a lot easier.
Well, got her mostly put back together my first attempt to turn her was an absolute failure. -The starter made a rough sound then went silent. The starter actually fell off a high table crashing to the floor but showed no damage. I hoped it was ok but I now think not with not even a clock when I press the switch. -I forgot how to connect the carb linkage and cables. I don’t think my carb is stock but has a manual choke and throttle cable attachment. -the throttle cable and linkage is an issue. When I press the gas pedal, the spring loaded lever causes another linkage to rotate the throttle lever I believe but the throttle does not return and remains in the open position I suspect. The gas pedal has a spring to return it to its neutral position but the carb throttle does not return. -I have no power when turning on the ignition switch, I only connected the generator, regulator, starter and battery. After my first attempt I decided to get back to basics and discovered a wire disconnected but that would not have effected the starter. I need to first check the starter for any issues. -the battery is fully charged when I tried. I will keep you all posted
