Any phots of what trim looks like after it’s off car. I see people say pry it off slowly and carefully. Do you pry up on material side ? ( I assume ). Want to replace with marine grade vinyl. Try to save trim as I think it looks better then the aftermarket stuff. Thanks
The trim is in two pieces. There is a steel channel underneath that has two sides angled in. The is a dovetail under the aluminum part and the steel pinches the dovetail to keep it in place. This is accomplished by tapping the aluminum into the steel channel. You will need to start at the front end and carefully pry up the aluminum, trying not to distort it too much, to release it from the steel channel and work around the perimeter. Once the aluminum is off the steel channel can be removed carefully as it is held down with nails. It's possible the steel will lift off with the aluminum if the nails are not holding well. Go slowly until you see what's happening.
Hello cabboy, Thank you for the explanation about how the steel base and the aluminum upper trim fit together. My question is, can you explain where and how the vinyl top material fits into this assembly and is secured? It would be interesting to see an exploded assembly diagram to visualize each items position.
Thanks Cabboy. After reading your post I went out to reevaluate. The top piece seems to be still instead of aluminum as a magnet will stick to it.looks like mine has three seams to it. On in the center back and on both sides about 8.5 inches back from the front. Have not found photos or video of removal. I’m be overly cautious probably , but I know I have one shot. If I mess up I won’t be able to replace this trim style.
Hello Kray1932, Not finding any 'how to' information on removing or installing the roof material metal trim. I did come across 'classiccarrestorationclub.com' and a discussion titled 'removing roof moldings on a '32 Chevrolet'. After carefully reading all that was presented, the only technique given was: "carefully prying on them". If you go with Cabboy's explanation of how the exposed upper metal trim press fits INTO the base receptacle that's nailed onto the wood coachwork, you should be able to 'carefully pry' the two apart. Trying to visualize Cabboy's description, base receptacle left and right vertical sides angle inward toward each other at their top edge. The metal cover trim 'legs' must be tapered slightly wider to cause a friction fit when pressed on. If this sounds correct, the trick will be to not damage the upper top metal by deforming the shape. I'd stay away from the middle of the metal trim until you see how it fits. Don't use prying tools with sharp edges that could scar the metal. If you are successful at lifting an end, maybe a finely tapered wooden wedge could be used to separate the fit along it's entire length. Prying from the roof material side should be less damaging then the sheet metal body side. Please tell us what you find out and help others in the same situation.
I come to about the same conclusion as you. I can’t believe theirs not one video to watch for a challenged person like myself. I found a member who did his 1932 coupe in 1962 at 19 and it’s still going. We’re going to try to get together at the end of June. I’m hoping with his first hand knowledge he can help me understand even better. When I do tackle this it will be recorded for better or worse. So maybe the next guy can see what to do or hopefully what not to do. Thanks for all the information from everyone. Great site with great knowledgeable people. Fabricators and experience are becoming a lost art and can be a good living if you have or can develop the talent. Thanks
It's probably similar to the way the drip edge is fastened. The molding that goes against the car has channel legs that will bend into the top piece and grip it when hammered down
Well finally went for it. Not as tuff as I thought so far. No chicken wire in mine. More photos and video at m car page if interested on 32 original top trim removal. FB Time Machine Link.
Hello Kray1932, Now that you have pried the roof top material (trim) off in one piece, with the nails and all, will you be able to separate the trim cover from the base that has the nails, and be able to show us what they look like separated? That way we can see how the two pieces are made to fit together. Your video answered my question as to how the top material attached to the trim. It doesn't. The trims (nail base) holds the materials edge in position because of all the nails used.
The trim piece with nail is one piece. The nails I believe are soldered on to the trim. That’s why it’s hard to reuse trying to get the nails back to we’re they belong. I doing this in a very unconventional way I’m sure. My plan as of now is to add strips between the strips. Then I have a thin rubber membrane to lay down instead of the burlap. Then I’m going to try and attach a tonal cover material by tac’s and adhesive. Then I will try to finesse the trim strips back on with some good clear silicone adhesive. If all look good will weight the trim down for a couple days to cure. I hope to never have to take it off. If I do I will deal with it then. I figure I will have one shot with the stock trim.
There was a link a few years ago to the mafca. The tops are similar and a member posted it as a reference.
Art
I have done a lot of searching in the past with no luck. I’m hoping what I post might be helpful to someone in the future. I figure some information and photos are better then none. Hopefully I will get better with documenting stuff as I go. This car is a daily journey for me.
Hello Kray1932, Thank you for clarifying how the trim is made just one piece. Will you remove all the nails to obtain a flat underside trim? I'm thinking that besides just relying on silicone adhesive alone, you might use some screw fasteners in a few strategic locations also. As you say, hope to never need to remove trim again, you can make fasteners disappear during the finishing process.
Ok right or wrong it’s done. Did all except spray the glue and staples. Replace one slat then added two extra New ones. Put in chicken wire then secured the padding. Put New roof material on then installed stock trim. Then put some black silicone to seal up . Better then what I had, and did it myself. I’m very happy with it. Have more photos at FB Time Machine Link.