Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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The parking break has never been connected on my 41 4 door since I got it. I seem to be missing parts for it. On the car there are cables to each of the rear drums connected to a bar mounted under the torque tube in the front. Had to remove the bar to work on the torque tube. In the car there is a handle to se the brake. Issue I have is that I am missing what ever should connect this bar and the handle.

A diagram I have looks like there should be a bar going to the front and a spring on the bar under the car. Any idea of the length of this bar and spring and how they are connected to make this work?

We are currently in that area working on the torque tube and thought we might want to tackle that at the same time.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Russell #38868
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Hope this picture helps. PM me and I may have what’s missing. Mike

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A few more.

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Russell #38868
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It may be a few days till I get back to this. I might be missing more than I thought. I have cables hooked to the bar going to the rear. The piece the spring attached to is missing and the rod to the front. I will have to look when I have a chance to make sure. Busy weekend coming up and may not be till Monday before I have a chance to look.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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The three pic's I posted was from several years ago. The flat bar piece the spring is attached to is how someone before me had it hooked up. It worked. While going through my file of pictures I have taken of many different '46, '47 and '48 over the years to post for you I came across this picture of a '47 showing what I believe to be the way it was originally. Notice the bent "z" shaped piece the spring it attached to. I thought I remembered a piece shaped like that in my collection of left over stuff I didn't know where or what they were for. Sure enough, I had that piece. So as of today mine is as shown below.

But as I said, a piece of flat stock drilled on both ends worked just fine.

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Russell #38868
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Have not had time to get back to hooking this up. What I was able to find was a bar / linkage from the brake lever to the middle part / bar on eBay. Currently there are cables from the wheels to the center bar. Is there a reason that the pics I see have steel rods part of the way to the rear wheels? Also what is the purpose of the spring and how strong does it need to be. I will probably just go to the hardware store and get a spring of the correct type.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_41/41cp100.html

Seems at one time they used rods and cables.

Glad you found the rod you needed.

The spring is what returns the break leaver handle to the off position when you release the parking breaks. The spring on mine has a od. of 3/4". The spring you get and the attaching bracket you make will need to be long enough AND strong enough to pull the handle back to the off position.

It is a very strong spring.https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/dept/Brakes/cat/Emergency.html

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Russell #38868
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Thanks for the information on the brake, that is the next job. We just finished the seals on the Torque tube and it is in the same area. Have assembled the parts except the spring. The pictures supplied in this thread are excellent. Will update once this is done.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Well we finally got back to attempting to hook up the linkage for the parking brake. Unfortunately what was sold as a NOS 1941 part is not the right one. It appears to be the correct length but the bends in it hit something regardless of how it is installed. It cannot possibly line up at both ends. On top of that I no longer believe this was truly a NOS part. I was painted black but the paint scrapes off with the slightest rub against any metal part. No primer or nothing under the paint. I do not even think the part would have been painted back then, would it? Guess it does not matter how the part is painted if it does not fit.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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If this is what you need it’s yours and the boys for the shipping, pits included.

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Originally Posted by minetto
If this is what you need it’s yours and the boys for the shipping, pits included.


Thanks for the offer, I sent a PM.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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I must be doing something wrong at this point or have the wrong bar connected to the handle in the car. The correct linkage is now under the car and we now have the correct linkage to connect to the crescent moon shaped piece under the hood to the bar under the car. With the bar in the correct location the slack is removed from the cables to the rear wheels so that seems correct. The issue we are having is that the bar does not align under the hood with the hole it appears to need to go in. The bar always hits the bell housing before it is moved far enough towards the hole it needs to go in. The handle in the car moves this part so I believe it is the correct one to attach to. We have tried twisting it at different angles and re routing it around the shift linkage etc. It currently goes over the frame and touches the side of the bell housing. Attached are pictures taken looking down from under the hood of where we are having issues.

Thanks for all of the help and pictures to this point. They have been a great help for us.

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1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG

I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Looking at other pictures is the crescent moon shaped piece supposed to be flat or bent? On On mine the end where it looks like it should connect to the rod under the car looks like it is bent up for some reason. Could this be the wrong piece? My youngest thinks this part is just to long on one side and must have been replaced over the years. He suggested drilling a new hold in it for where the linkage does line up since that might work.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Attached are a couple pictures that show the linkage. The crescent moon piece in your pictures looks to be correct however the rod that connects to the bottom of the crescent should be routed under the side engine mount. If these don’t help let me know and I can take a video for you. Mike

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Minetto, thanks for the pictures. The second one shows what my issue may be. My pictures did not show it clearly but the curved piece on mine has been bent upwards after the pivot near the steering column. Due to that it is to high to connect when the linkage is run underneath the mount. We thought that it must have been bent that way for a reason. I have no clue how this was bent upwards. Next time we are looking at this we know how it should go. Thanks.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Does your flywheel cover look like this. the rod passes through the indent and lines up with the crescent bar. That bar should not have any bend in it.

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Russell #38868
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I have to look again at the cover. I was just explaining what that cover was yesterday when my son was asking what it was for. Cannot remember if that notch is in it. The crescent bar is bent in and upwards direction starting under the steering column. Guess that is why we kept getting confused. We thought the part on the car was correct. I have to wonder if this bend is why the prior person working on this did not have it connected.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Just one other note, the rod inserts into the hole on the crescent from the engine side with the cotter key on the wheel side. This can be seen in Mikes second picture above.


Russell #38868
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Did not have time to try and install it again but my son took a look at it. There is a notch just like the picture in the flywheel cover. Also the crescent moon shaped bar is bent upwards about an inch. Currently we now have all the parts and know where they should go. Just a matter of getting everything to line up.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Just an update. Life has a way of pulling us away from hobbies for a while. I am going to need to get a torch to heat this up and bend the bar back to the correct shape. Unfortunately the prior owner decided to weld the brackets holding this part to the frame. It appears that my choice is cut the pivot point or heat and bend it in the car.

I only have a propane torch and I know that is not enough to do the job. Anyone know if a map gas one would work for this? I could afford one of those.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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MAPP gas is hotter but might not be enough if the part is thick. I have used it to heat and bend parts but would prefer not to do it again. It takes a long time to get the part hot enough because the flame is not concentrated heat like a "real" torch. So lots of heat gets transferred to the rest of the part. The MAPP gas you buy today is really MAPP-Pro.

Consider this. Bernzomatic Cutting/Welding Kit

I have had one for years. The main downfall is that the O2 cylinders are relatively expensive and do not last very long. But it does the job without having to own a full OX-Acetylene rig.


Rusty

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I know it has been a while but we finally figured this one out. Without all of your help we never would have gotten here. The half moon part was bent and did need to be bent back. What we did not figure out was that the mount that the the pivot piece was on was also bent up and towards the driver's side of the car. Due to this we could not figure out how to line everything up. The rod was always just off by less than an inch and the pictures looked so close to what we had. It took a friend to look at it and see what we kept overlooking. Now all of the linkage and cables are connected. It is just a matter of making all of the fine adjustments.

This is one of the items we would stare at for an hour and kept coming back to. We just never thought that the mount could have been bent to even thought that should have been an obvious thing to check. Future lesson :)


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.

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