Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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I can't believe that the oil pan won't come off....... 1934 Master town sedan.... I dropped the tie rod & moved it out of the way..... undid all the screws & the two bolts in the rear....... the pan dropped loose from the block about one inch.. so it is free...... BUT, it will not drop down past the front cross member, when pushed back as far as it can go, in the rear, up against the transmission cross member...... the front lip of the pan does not clear the Front cross member... I just need 1/4" more clearance to drop the front of the pan, down past the cross member......
Does this mean I Must drop the transmission cross member to be able to move the back of the pan back another 1/2".... so the front of the pan will clear..??????? I sure hope not... what a Hassle, just to drop an oil pan..... stressed
...... What were the Engineers thinking...???
If I have to drop the transmission cross member... that means I have to disconnect and drop the rods that hook to the front brake cables.... Because they are right up against the cross member... not allowing it to drop.... What a poor design.... just to drop an oil pan.....
COULD THIS ACTUALLY BE TRUE....??? THAT I HAVE TO DISCONNECT ALL OF THESE THINGS to get the pan off...??? HELP..!!!


1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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The modern car designers learnt their lessons well, for some engine repairs the 1st instruction is remove the rear registration plate then remove everything forward. I have seen this progressing over the last 50 years as a mechanic.
Tony


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Have you jacked the engine up put a block under the front mount to get the clearance you need? I have not done a 34 but many engines need to be up in the front to gain the clearance needed.


Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
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Note this is a double post and I wasted my time in replies on the other post...........................................................................If every thing is normal the pan will drop right off.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 08/28/22 08:56 AM.

Gene Schneider
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I have not jacked the engine up.. except earlier when I installed the new front motor mounts.... the front of the engine appears to be at the proper height, because the tie rod clears the oil pan by about 1".... where before the new motor mount it was rubbing on the pan.....
Gene... you did not waste your time answering on the other post.. I read it and appreciated your response... I know you have a 1934 master... so I was hoping you could give me some advice... I do not know what is normal for this car... and so I don't know what should be happing here, to get the pan off.... I did drop the tie rod.... but the back of the pan hits the rear cross member... and the front lip of the pan hits the front cross member..... so it appears to me, that the two cross members are a shorter distance than the length of the pan.... so how could that be..??? Is that rear cross member that sits in the grove between the rear of the pan and the bell housing, actually the transmission mount..??? Perhaps there is a transmission mount that is worn out, that I am unaware of... that is causing the rear of the pan to be too low, to be able to drop down and clear the cross member...... I will try jacking the transmission up... and see if that allows the rear of the pan to be able to move back enough to allow the front lip of the pan to clear the front cross member....... See I am learning from these conversations... I don't even know where the transmission mount is.... let alone know what condition it is in...


1934 Chevrolet Master sedan
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I can't remember, is the rear cross member bolted or riveted in? I emember I had to remove the cross member on my '39 to get the pan off.


Gene Schneider
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That rear cross member is bolted on with three bolts on each side... but it does not appear to be actually supporting the transmission at all... It just runs across, between the oil pan and the bell housing..... not touching anything except the frame on each side..... Perhaps my transmission and bell housing have no mounts left... because my front engine mount rubber was completely rotted away and the side mounts were rotted too... so that the crankshaft pully was resting on the front cross member and the tie rod was tight up against the pan... so the engine couldn't be hand cranked and the steering was real hard to turn.... Now I fixed the mounts... and the engine is raised about 1"..... but I have not looked into the transmission mounts (if there actually are any on a '34 master)...... perhaps they are shot too..... my repair manual says nothing about transmission mounts.... where are they...??


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I think what you are calling the transmission mount is the frame tie-bar, remove the six bolts, and you will be able to remove it.


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Bill... that is what I am thinking as well..... but I don't know the name of it.... In order to take it down.... the ridged brake rods need to be dropped.... I am going to try to find the transmission mounts, (If there are some) (they are not mentioned in the repair manual.....) and see what condition they are in... and then jack up the tranny (which will lift up the back of the engine ,bell housing & tranny but Not the Frame tie-bar... and see if that gives the needed room... Last resort is disconnect the brake rods and drop the tie-bar..... Gene said if I drooped the tie rod ... it should just slip out.......I did & It didn't....... We will see.... I will let you all know of my progress and what works out... Looking inside the crack at the crank & rods & what I can see with a flash light... it looks amazingly Clean..... and when I pulled the valve cover and rotated the engine slowly by hand.. (to check for stuck valves)..... the top rocker area looks real clean as well... No Gunk.... Just a light coating of dried, dark oil... very thin coating that came off easily with a rag..... I will take some photos......and post my progress in bringing back to life, this sleeping Beauty.......

Last edited by WildernessTruck; 08/28/22 09:52 PM.

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My final post on this subject.
I had two friends with 1934 Masters and I had a 1934 Master (now owned by friend number 3) ad all dropped the pan at one time or another. The most any had to do is emove the tie rod on one end and the fly wheel cover and the pan slipped right out.
Your engine is too low and could be due to incorrect motor mounts or? and you are just gooing to need to raise the engine PERIOD


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Great... Thanks Gene... You just added another key bit of information... you said that they had to remove the fly wheel cover... which is actually preventing the rear of my pan from moving back enough to clear the front cross member... Thanks again... all these little tips ad up to a solution.....


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Well I just keep trying carbana


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What you are calling a "rear" crossmember does not support much if any weight of the engine. It is really a "middle" support that controls the engine from rocking under torque. I know that I had to remove it on my '37 to drop the pan.

Yu should check your shop manual. In mine there are some steps to set the distance between the middle engine mounts and the cross member. You put the mounts under enough load to control the rock but they do not carry much of the drivetrain weight.

The front engine mounts and the transmission mount have to be in good condition to let the middle mounts function correctly.


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The 1934 engine mounting system is diferent from the 1935-1951 version.


Gene Schneider
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Gene..... on my 1934, Is there any mounts to support the transmission..?? or is there only the front engine mounts and the side engine mounts.... The cross tie-bar behind the engine, does not seem to have anything resting on it.... it must not be a support mount for anything...

Last edited by WildernessTruck; 08/29/22 04:57 PM.

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Two mounts in the front.
One one right side with big braket bolted to flywheel housing extending forward, mount bolted to front of bracket and bottom bolted to cross member.
Right side big bracket bolted to side of engine at center with 4 bolts, mount bolted on end and fsatened to cross member.
Rear of transmission has mount that sits on short cross member bolted to the frame X.
Only the1933 and 1934 block has the boss on the left side for the mount bracket. If this mount boss on the side of the engine is missing and block is smooth you have a later engine.
The side mounts do not carry weight but prevent the engine from twisting under power.....on side raising and other side lowering.


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Is the pan off????


Gene Schneider
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I just got the pan off... I did three things, before it would come off.... First I jacked up the transmission about 1 inch..... The transmission mount was totally gone...(rubber rotted away.... So that needs replaced.... then I tried to remove the pan... still not enough room to clear the front cross member.... So I removed the tie-bar cross member in the rear of the engine... still would not move back enough to clear the front cross member... so I removed the Fly wheel cover and THE PAN DROPPED RIGHT DOWN..... yea..!!!
So now looking at the oil pump... the round screen is missing... but the little wire holder is still there... so I am hoping Gene still has that round one for sale ($30)....??? I also put my hands on the connecting rod caps and they all moved a little from side to side (by hand).... so I will need to take off crown nuts & caps and remove shims (equal from each side) ... retighten until they are tight enough that it takes a light tap with a ball peen hammer to move them side to side...(that is what my repair manual suggests) It looks pretty clean under there... only about 1/4 inch of thick creamy oil in the bottom (sludge)...... This car has not been started for about 50 years...... but sitting in the southwestern dry climate... outside.... I hope that the rod bearings have shims to remove to tighten them up a bit..... Any advice with this process is very appreciated....


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You can measure the bearing clearance with Plasti-Gauge (my choice), but the light tap method works if you have a feel for what you are doing.


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It has been found that using plastigage on the rods usually ends up with them being too losse. The original factory method works the best.


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I agree with Gene. Have found plastigage is only good to get into the ballpark but not to locate home plate. The light tap method has worked for me several times.


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I got to looking much closer up under there with a flash light, and cleaned the pan & scraped off the old gasket...... the cylinder walls look very smooth..... the cam lobes look smooth as well.... there was no chunks of anything in the old oil, (I thinned it with paint thinner to see if there were any metal flakes in it).... Over all it looks real clean inside the block to me....(see photos) I did find my pump screen up inside the pump can... I thought it would be on the outside, thus thought it was missing... It looks real clean, no rust & not clogged up (see photo).... My trans mission mount is completely useless (see photo)..... I will replace that....
I do not have a torque wrench... so I will just tighten the rod cap crown nuts real tight with my 3/8" ratchet... and put the cotter pins back in...
Is there an easy way to make sure the oil supply tubes are flowing clean in there...?? anything else I should look into while in there.....?

After sitting for 50+ years... I had to scape a thick layer of hardened dirt off of the entire drive train & chassis.... I replaced the water pump with a new sealed bearing model from the filling station, sent off the W-1 carb to be rebuilt, bought a rebuilt fuel pump, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, (not yet installed) fan belt & new radiator and new gas tank...... also new oil filter cartridge....
I tapped all the valve stems to make sure none were stuck... ordered a new 6 volt battery and big thick battery cables... and ordered a new wiring harness....... I am just about ready to fire this sleeping Beauty.... awake.......... and see what she has to say for herself after a 50+ year sleep..... I sure hope she is Happy..... I am also putting Graphite rope seals in my Dubonnets & a new king pin set..... I also put in a new water pump baffle and filled the head with Evapro Rust ...... drained it after a month, it turned black, and refilled again... before starting It , I will put a coolant filter inline before the water/evapro rust enters the new radiator.... (which at first will probably need emptied often)
Anything I am missing...?? any Suggestion are appreciated...... Thanks for all you help

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Last edited by WildernessTruck; 08/30/22 11:18 AM.

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One trick many of us use is to drive the oil pump with a drill and long shaft. I have a long cheap screwdriver that I broke the handle off so I can chuck it in a drill. I did have to grind the tang some so it slips into the oil pump drive. Obviously the distributor has to be removed.

I do this with the valve cover off so I can see oil at all the rocker arms. In your case it will also fill the bypass oil filter. You should also get a low reading on the oil pressure gauge while running the oil pump with the drill.


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I just turn the engine over with the stARTER WITH THE PLUGS REMOVED - SAVES FOOLING AROUND RING TO GET THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK IN THE CORRECT PLACE AND RESETINGTHE TIMING.

It is difficult to check the 1934 connecting rod oil line but they never seem to plug up like when the lines are in the pan and sludge can build up in the line where they go down and then up at an angle causing a low spot.


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What Rusty says will work very well.

You will however obviously have to hold a can of oil under the oil pump inlet while you run the pump and watch what comes out of the lines. :-)

You'll also need to have a pan under the engine to prevent the inevitable mess on the shop floor.

Last edited by Stovblt; 08/30/22 01:02 PM.

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I am going to take Gene's advice and crank it with the plugs out and the valve cover off... oil pan on, and filled with oil.. and my new 6 vt. battery.... to see it pumping up into the rocker arms.... thank you all for your advice.. it is valuable... not just for me.. but anyone dealing with this situation in the future...


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jrlaplante... you asked me; "How do you remove the flywheel cover? I am in same boat with removing the pan but not sure what I'm looking at for flywheel cover. Any pictures? Thanks for any help."
my answer; The flywheel cover is on the bottom of the bell housing behind the pan... it has two slotted bolts, one on either side, holding it on.... once off, then my oil pan could slide back another 1/2 inch, and dropped down & off..... the shinny piece is the flywheel cover plate...
I hope this helps... I can't post photos on this private message for some odd reason.... So I will post them on my thread for you..

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Awesome, thanks.

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