1930 chevrolet 6 cylinder fresh rebuild. Rear main does not leak when running. After shut off oil squirts about 2 ounces out of rear main and then stops. Any ideas?
My 31 was doing the same thing. The engine was built with too much clearance in the rear main bearing. There were lots of posting about the process but it involved cutting a grove in the bearing to allow more oil into the pan. It was much worse when moving the car around the shop with cold oil. I will see if i can find the postings.
Thanks, I searched for that thread first but could not find it. Looks like I'll drop the pan and check for ball and clearance. Body is not on chassis yet. Trying to work the bugs out before I attach body. Again, Thanks and I'll post the outcome.
I moved chassis to lift. It appears the leak is coming from the welch plug on the bottom of the main cap. It was smeared with silicone and painted over. Also might have some seepage around one of the main cap bolts. Is the check ball located under the plug? I can probably get the plug out, but getting one back in might be a chore. I also might have a transmission leak at the front collar. If I have to remove transmission I could remove the bell housing and flywheel to replace plug without removing oil pan. Anyone have any thoughts about this proceedure? Thanks very much.
So I removed the transmission and flywheel and replaced the welch plug. Installed the flywheel and started engine. No leak while running but when shut off drops a teaspon]on or so out of the rear main. Also it appears like a small drop on one of the main cap bolts. I would like to know more about making channels in bearing. i will pull pan tomorrow and check bearing clearance.
Update, removed oil pan and rear main. Ball was stuck so I removed pin and ball. Bearing clearance was .005 to .006 and I shimmed to .002. Did not feel comfortable with grooving bearing so I left it alone. Transmission leak was bell housing bolts and seal retainer bolts. Cleaned and applied sealer to all items. Put it back together and have no leaks running or stopped. Now I can move forward and marry the body to the chassis. Thank you all for your help
The ball and pin is needed to stop oil leaks when travelling up hills, without it oil will leak in the same areas, and leave oil trails down the roads for other motorists,
Oil that passes through the front main and ends up in the tining gear cover area and returns through the drain holes in that area. It returns faster than it can leak out thru the timing cover area
Looking at the repair manual there is a good picture (figure) of the oiling system and how it works. plus several pages on it :) comes in really handy when building one of these or working on one :)
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I have all the manuals, they do not show oil leaks :). I might have an oil leak in the front, that is why I asked. I am restoring this car for a NASCAR friend of mine. It was delivered to me on seven pallets. Body was disassembled, wood was rotten. I had not been aquainted with this vintage Chevy but had done a couple of 30's Rolls. Mostly early Fords. All of you have been very helpful and I truly appreciate your help. If I can figure out how to post photos I will show you the progress.
The front timing cover does not have an oil seal where the front pulley passes through it, it relies on an oil slinger to keep the oil inside the cover, you need to check the gaskets used on the timing plate and block mounting, I recently saw about the gasket not have all the holes in the gasket, preventing oil from reaching the camshaft timing gears. So compare the gasket to match ALL Holes, particularly the hole for the oil brass drip per fitting in the timing plate.