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#472549 07/31/22 01:05 PM
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I know this has been gone over over and over again, but I need diagrams with numbers. I keep reading references to numbers and sequences but I don't know what the directions are referring to. I have some slightly bent pushrods and it was recommended i remove them and straighten on a flat surface so I am at that point but not sure how to proceed.
-Is it possible to install the distributor 180 degrees out of phase? I am using my hand crank to get the crank in the correct position to adjust valves. Any advice is appreciated as usual.
-My hope is to straighten pushrods and get the car running once reassembled and if further adjustments to valves need to be accomplished, I can move forward from there

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You can install the distributor in many positions. Most of them will not work.

Do some searches and you will find many posts about installing a distributor.

There are 4 features that need to be in the correct relation to each other.

#1 cylinder needs to be at top dead center with both valves closed.

You need to determine the proper orientation of the distributor body in relation to the engine block.

The rotor on the distributor shaft needs to be pointed to the terminal in the cap that you want to be cylinder #1. Normally on these 216’s that terminal is in about the 4:30 position as you look down on the cap.

The drive slot in the oil pump has to be positioned so the distributor shaft will engage it. This is a little tricky because the shaft rotates slightly as it engages the gear on the camshaft.


Rusty

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You will have to readjust the valves after straighting the push rods.


Gene Schneider
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If you want van instruction on how to adjust the valves, go to the Stovebolt.com and look under tech tips.


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https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm

I think this is what old216 is referring to.

Thanks old216, I could not remember where it was.


Russell #38868
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Thank you gents. The stovebolt reference really helps. I like diagrams and color coded is even better. This process doesn't seem difficult but having never had a need leaves me in the learning phase. I place the flywheel at TDC then installed the distributor, it could only go in one of two ways and be seated in my case. Am I to assume that the valves are open when they are loose on top? I am so close to assembly now, straighten pushrods(3 of them) by measuring before removal and setting to same measurement just to get started then adjust all of them. Next i will install pushrod cover, starter, generator, fan, radiator and heater hoses. Once she starts and runs, then i will install grill and hood. I just need to get her running so I can pull her out of the garage for more room to work on another project. I will of course keep you all posted on my progress or regress
Michael

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I think I have a functional method to adjusting valves from many videos and forums.
-Biggest challenge is finding TDC on #1 cylinder
- one method is to place finger over removed spark plug opening and rotate engine until you feel pressure.
***I don’t feel any pressure when approaching and passing flywheel timing mark
Any suggestions as to what I’m doing wrong
Thank you
Michael
PS so close yet so far

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Your pics show the correct location of the flywheel prior to installing the distributor. As Rusty posted as you remove the dist the dist shaft rotates as it comes away from the camshaft gear. You have with trial and error to install the dist back with the rotor pointing to 4.30 position for No. 1 cylinder. You will have to turn the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver to get the tang on the dist to line up when the rotor is in the correct position and the dist fully seats on the block. I use a mirror to make sure the dist is seated. This can take a few attempts. I always mark the position of the rotor with a white koki pen before i pull the dist out to make insertion a bit easier. I wear a torch on my head to reduce the amount of swearing involved.

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Thank you
With little experience working on cars, I just pulled the distributor and rotated the front pully and balance to paint them. I now have a basic understanding how things work but I’m not getting that pop front the #1 cylinder. The rockers feel tight no matter what and the plugs are dark despite having been changed not long ago.

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Rude awakening. I thought the pushrod pulled through the rocker. It appears I have to remove the entire rocker assembly to get pushrods out? Oh no

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Nevemind, thanks to stovebolt the answer was there. Just slide rocker aside once adjusting but and screw is removed, phew.

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Th plugs will be black due to egine not being run under load. Take ot and drive a 40 MPH and they will cle up.


Gene Schneider

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