I'd really appreciate it if someone could post a picture of the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals of a '39.
I'm more interested in the position, size and shape of the accelerator pedal as I think my accelerator pedal has been modified and it's so high up its really difficult and uncomfortable to use. As much detail as possible would help me a lot. Thanks in advance.
Attached image shows pedals as they are now, is the accelerator correct?
Those pictures are great, thanks. I've found exactly the same gas pedal for sale in a couple of places listed for a '39, so I'm now certain it's been badly modified. To use the pedal now I have to hold my leg in the air, which makes it almost impossible to drive.
As well as the gas pedal issue my brake pedal is quite high, there's considerable free play in the pedal close to 2 inches. Should there be any adjustment/stops for the pedal? What exactly is meant by toe board clearance quoted in the shop manual and where do you measure that 1/4 inch when you adjust it?
On RHD Australian 39’s there is a cross over linkage on the engine side of the firewall. The accelerator pedal (about 160mm long with rubber covering) is pivoted at the bottom end on the floor,and the upper end has a short through rod connecting to the cross over shaft, the pedal in your pictures look like a hot rodder pedal from the 60’s,
The brake pedal top board clearance is adjusted via an concentric bolt on the push rod that enters the master cylinder bore. My 39 has about 3/4 inch of movement before the brake pedal applies pressure at the master cylinder,
Toe board clearance is the distance between the pedal lever on the engine side of the firewall , and the floor where the round detachable pedal passes into the inside of the vehicle, ( think about the pedal hitting the sheetmetal every time you let the brake pedal go ). If you have about 2 inches or 50mm of free play in your pedal , I would suspect that there is too much clearance between the brake shoes and the drums, a brake shoe adjustment would be in order,
Toe board clearance is the distance between the pedal lever on the engine side of the firewall , and the floor where the round detachable pedal passes into the inside of the vehicle, ( think about the pedal hitting the sheetmetal every time you let the brake pedal go ). If you have about 2 inches or 50mm of free play in your pedal , I would suspect that there is too much clearance between the brake shoes and the drums, a brake shoe adjustment would be in order,
Thanks for the info, the crossover shaft is there as you say, the pedal is a real botch job, made by someone and then modified by others, it has sections welded in and was even welded into the crossover shaft. I've made a new pedal from stuff I already had and a new shaft from an old scissor jack handle! Got to get dimensions of it as good as I can now.
The brake pedal does smack against the toe board, will have to look at the adjustment now I know where to measure. The clutch pedal was badly adjusted too, had to take out an inch and a half of free play - at least that was easy to do!
I've adjusted the front brakes now, they were awful, pedal feel is better but I'll have to check the rears before I do anything else.
On RHD Australian 39’s there is a cross over linkage on the engine side of the firewall. The accelerator pedal (about 160mm long with rubber covering) is pivoted at the bottom end on the floor,and the upper end has a short through rod connecting to the cross over shaft, the pedal in your pictures look like a hot rodder pedal from the 60’s,
The brake pedal top board clearance is adjusted via an concentric bolt on the push rod that enters the master cylinder bore. My 39 has about 3/4 inch of movement before the brake pedal applies pressure at the master cylinder,
Accelerator pedals I've seen for sale are around 200mm long, it's the through rod I would really like to see and either a rough or accurate measurement of the same, if at all possible. Thanks again.
Finally got my gas pedal sorted, made myself a new one and devised a linkage to operate the wrongly positioned cross shaft. Applied a rubber pad cut from an old car mat. Now works a treat and is comfortable to use. Multi holed linkage is temporary, but now I know it's OK I'll make a better version.
