Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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41 Chevy 216.

My water pump is leaking after the first few drives. What has to be removed to change it? Do I really need to remove the radiator to change it?


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The only thing to remove beforehand is the fan blade


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Originally Posted by Mr87Monty
41 Chevy 216.

Do I really need to remove the radiator to change it?
No. Disconnect the hoses (good time to replace them if they're a few years old), remove the fan then R&R the pump.


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Thanks for the help. Last time we changed it there where no fenders or radiator on the car. Wanted to make sure that I was not getting into a situation where I try to get a long bolt out and not have enough room or something like that.

Pump had under 15 miles on it as do all the hoses and the belt. When the fenders where off I had changed out everything I could for a tune up due to easy access. Guess I just got a bad part from the factory.


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Are you sure it's the shaft leaking or the gasket? The gasket may have failed and permitting coolant to pass or the shaft is leaking and the coolant would then be going out the fail hole in the casting. Even check the hose for sealing where it attaches to the pump or the top hose because the coolant will just trace down.

The reason I'm asking is that it only 15 miles before you noticed a leak. Seem a bit short even for a rebuilt pump. So don't automatically turn to the worst case mood before a thorough examination,

You may want to check all sources of coolant in and around the pump before dumping it and ordering a new or another rebuilt one. dance

Best,

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Removed the pump no issue. It was leaking from behind the pully.

The bolts holding the water pump on are grade 3. Is that the correct grade for these?


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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I have never heard of a Grade 3 bolt. If you mean that the bolt head has 3 marks on it that means it is a Grade 5. Someone has replaced the original hardware.

These old cars and engines were assembled with what is now classified as Grade 2 (no head markings) hardware. Spending money on Grade 5 hardware is not needed.

This is especially true when you are threading bolts into cast torn. You can only tighten the bolt to the load limit of the threads.

Torque wrenches were a rarity and used maybe only in some manufacturing operations. Few if any mechanics even knew what they were much less owned one.

There is one other quirk I have learned about the hardware on these classic cars. I am surprised at the number of times I have removed original hardware with a length in 1/8” increments. When these cars were designed and built the focus was on material cost. So shaving 1/8” off a bolt for millions of bolts was a costs savings.

The point is that when you replace a 1 1/8” long bolt with a 1 1/4” bolt make sure there is room for the extra length, especially in a blind hole.


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Originally Posted by Rusty 37 Master
The point is that when you replace a 1 1/8” long bolt with a 1 1/4” bolt make sure there is room for the extra length, especially in a blind hole.
I've had to go to the bench grinder a number of times to shorten a modern fastener. Another oddity was sizing fastener head size in 1/32" increments instead of 1/16" as is common today.


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That is why they invented metric wrenches! Some metric sizes fit those 1/32” increment hexes very well.


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Here in Aus we get all sized bolt heads AF, Metric, Whitworth and some that none of the 3 will fit properly which get the fitzall (shifting) spanner.
Tony


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Attached is a photo of an adjustable specialty tool if you only need the fastener to be finger tight.

;-) Dean

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FingerTightTool.jpg

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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Bolts are grade 5. Not sure what I was thinking when I typed 3. I will just reuse them. Replacement parts will be here end of week.

Hardest part looks to be lining up the fan bolts with the radiator leaving little space for my large fingers.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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This might not be applicable to your car.

On my ‘37 the fan is so close to the radiator that you have to remove the fan and water pump as an assembly.

I put a piece of cardboard on the back face of the radiator so I do not damage any of the fins as I remove the assembly.

I use an adhesive type gasket sealant to stick the gasket to the back of the water pump. Then I do not have to worry about the gasket sliding out of position as I install the pump/fan assembly.


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I assume on the assembly line the engine with fan attached went in before the radiator. It was that or they employed folks with tiny fingers to install the fan bolts.


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When I removed the pump I took the fan off first to give me better access to the pump bolts. There is just enough room with a wrench to get the bolts out of the fan. I might attempt it with the fan on first, can always take it off if that doe not work.


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.
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Thanks for all of the assistance. Pump is on and drove about 20 miles no issues with it after that. Placed a little of the gasket stuff on to hold the gasket on, worked great. Placing cardboard over the radiator was a great idea. Until we hit the radiator and bent a few fins removing the cardboard, good news is nothing was bent installing the pump :).


I have found that having an old car is a constant project that is never done. I think that is a good thing. Keeps me learning new things. Having two from different eras is just a form of higher education.

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