Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#470898 06/14/22 04:46 PM
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Hello to all, I have a1937 Chevy Master Deluxe and have put new brake shoes and wheel bearings on the front. Now, how do I know when I have the bearings at the correct tightness? then, what would be the right way to adjust the new brake shoes? Thanks, Joes37.

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Simple:

a. Expand the shoes by rotating the adjusters out. When facing the adjuster on end, turning it clockwise expands the shoe(s). To Loosen is counter-clockwise. (Note: The rear drum may be difficult to get on until you release the parking brake lever and push the activating lever in the wheel out so that the circumference the shoes present is minimum. Force the lever toward the rear of the car. You will be pulling the brake cable away from its activation application.)

b. Adjust through alternating from one adjuster to the other until you can barley get the drum on.

c. With the drum on and using a flat tip screwdriver or brake adjusting tool, use the same rotation going back and forth between adjusters until you lock the drum in place.

d. Put the wheel on and do this again using the diameter of the wheel for more leverage rotating it after each set of about three clicks on the adjuster on each end of the wheel cylinder until lock the wheel and can't turn it with arm power. At that point back off about 3-4 clicks on both adjusters until you can rotate the drum and hear scrubbing of shoes to drum. With the wheel on, adjustment is much more difficult so you want to eliminate as much turning of the adjusters as you can with the wheel off and then just the drum on.

e. Bleed the brakes by going to left rear, left front, right rear and then right front. Farthest distance fluid has to travel from master cylinder in that order. Refill Master cylinder.

f. After driving enough to seat the shoes to drums (will depend on how much and how hard you apply the brakes) for about 30-40 miles in a route that presents many opportunities for braking. Adjust the brakes again and then every time you change oil or so. These brakes are not self-adjusting so you will sense through brake foot or toes such travel that the shoes have worn enough to present a bit more travel than when you started out with after the brake job. Travel of the park brake lever will give you a heads up also.

g. All this is in the maintenance manual . They are available at most of the old Chevrolet specialty vendors such as Filling Station and Chevs of the Forties and by Chevrolet parts vendors at sway meets.

Good luck,

Best,

Charlie computer

BTW: I think I gave the order in which to bleed the brakes correctly. I may have been wrong. Just bleed them in whatever order that makes sense to you for distance fluid has to travel from the MC to each wheel cylinder, and you can't go far wrong. dance

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As to the bearing: Tighten until all the slack is gone then back off until you cab get the cotter pen through an opposing pair of nuts castellations. That light preload will be sufficient. Be sure to pack bearings with chassis grease first. Simplest method is to put some grease on the palm of your hand and then press the bearing into the grease forcing grease up throughout the individual bearing keepers. Rotate the bearing while forcing the grease to enter around the bearings. After this you simply put the bearings on the shaft/spindle. Clean your hands before hugging the missus. luv2 dance

Best,

Charlie computer

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I know Charlie will disagree, saying it's only this way on 38s but I'd recommend bearing grease not chassis grease. Chassis grease is too viscous.


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A hgh melting point wheel bearing grease,
Do not use a large amount of grease.
The main function of the grease is to blockout dirt and water from the bearings.....


Gene Schneider
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A Big Thank You to all! I wish I could hug the missus Charlie but she's gone to the big car show in the sky.

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I need some education here.

What is chassis grease?

I thought nearly all greases now were lithium complex soap based greases with high melt points, and it was pretty much just a matter of picking the NLGI number you need (ie #1 for winter, #2 for summer, or #00 for steering gears).
Or lithium complex soap based with an EP additive if required.

Just about every grease I've ever looked up the specs for say they are suitable for wheel bearings (including the bentonite clay or microgel thickened greases that aren't available anymore except for aviation at a horrendous price).


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I could be wrong, but I might add that with ball style wheel bearings it is more likely to be too loose than too tight when adjusting.
Ball bearings don't mind a little pre-load, but they don't like slack at all.

PS
The book actually said to tighten the nut as tight as possible with an 8 inch wrench while rolling the hub/wheel, then back off 1/12 turn (1/2 castellation) and any additional amount necessary to put in the cotter pin.
Seems to me that recommendation would leave the adjustment highly dependent on the arm strength of the mechanic. :-)

Anyway, you really don't want any slack when you are done.

Last edited by Stovblt; 06/14/22 08:20 PM.

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http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_51/4951csm0309.html

Quote
Seems to me that recommendation would leave the adjustment highly dependent on the arm strength of the mechanic.

That is probably why in the '49 manual they state torque to 33 foot pounds then back off a little.


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Wow! I hadn't seen that. 33 foot pounds sounds like a lot. I wonder if it could be a typo? New Departure had 200 inch pounds (about half that much) and then had you backing them off and re-tightening to 40-45 inch pounds, and sticking the cotter pin in, only backing off further if necessary to get the cotter pin in.

Either way they seem to want a little preload, not slop, as Charlie and Stovblt already mentioned.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1952sbb/52bb12.htm

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Tiny, you got me there with my ancient thinking. Sorry. What in the world do we call the grease that is suitable for wheel bearing, anyhow? "wheel bearings" is always on the label to indicate one of many applications of the stuff inside the container. Heck fire! Agrin

I used the term "chassis grease" as it was called from way back in time. I think that almost any grease that specifies on the container that it is suitable for wheel bearings should serve. It's kind of like modern motor oil in that any brand that has the desirable, suitable, applicable circled information on the back of the container and of suitable weight will do, yet we can never completely agree what brand or weight is best. You know. bonk

I currently use that red stuff. Probably no better than the old black stuff. And, I pack the bearings just as I described in the instant post and, of course, wipe away any excess grease that will serve no purpose. stressed

I did not intend to give bogus information or to cover every minute detail or option. dance

Thanks for all the comments. They help keep me on my toes. Do too!

Best,

Charlie computer

BTW: I had a failed right front wheel bearing on a 1953 Cadillac Coupe DeVile I had back in 1959 owing to a service station mechanic over loading the bearing with way too much load. I do wish we could get the pre-load thing narrowed down a bit. The method I described in my initial post here has served me well in the past but may not be the best solution.


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