Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Hello,

I have a 1937 Chevrolet Master Deluxe Bussiness Coupe with enclosed knee action system. As this is not a straight axle front end, where would the proper jacking points be to lift the car with a floor jack? In place of the solid axle is a hollow metal support that goes from wheel to wheel.

Wanting to know proper jacking points and where to put floor stands without damaging anything.

Pictures attached of what I have as well as parts diagram showing the hollow metal support the knee action parts go with on the front axle system.

Thanks

Attached Images
20220514_205645.jpg 20220514_205649.jpg 20220514_205651.jpg 20220515_062516.jpg 20220516_062246.jpg

Jonathan W. Ketron
1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
The factory jack is a bumper jack with slots and a set screw that grabs onto the front or rear bumper from the top and bottom. The frame is very substantial on these cars so stands or a bottle jack could be used anywhere on the frame with a piece of wood to prevent scrapes.


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
The jack that was supplied by the factory for removing one wheel is attached the the bumper bracket where the brackets are attached to the frame. A floor jack is placed uder the front center of the cross member to get both wheels off of the ground.
When front wheels are hanging down with no weight do not be suprised if fluid begans to leak from the knee.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Place a piece of wood (2x4 or so) to widen area taking the force from the floor jack' lift cup to crossmember. Then settle it down on suitable jack stands supporting the frame or some other suitable point(s). dance

Best,

Charlie computer

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
Maybe I am missing something here but to me that crossmember seems to have some serious rust problems in the centre. Am I correct? If so I wouldn’t put a floor Jack under there fire sure.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
I doubt if the cross member would br rusty as the engine oil leaks would have prevented that. In 1934 the same cross menmber was used and the factory instructions were to place the screw type jack under the cross member whch is very heaVy and strong as it supported the knees way out at the ends. No wood should be used as it could cause the a jack to slip out..

Last edited by Chev Nut; 05/19/22 09:09 AM.

Gene Schneider
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 28
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 28
I don't see any rust but my eyes are trained not to see it until I buy the vehicle.

Dave

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Gene,

On looking at the crossmember, which I didn't look at before posting my thoughts, I would agree that the saddle of the jack would be just fine for lifting the car.

I use a piece of wood all the time on my 41s. Lessens the distance and so will lift the car higher. I never have trouble with the car about to slip off because the jack is on smooth enough concrete with rollers.

My way is safe enough for me because I'm not so stupid as not to notice or observe what the car is doing when being jacked up. If the crossmember is painted the bare jack saddle will surely scratch it. One of mine is while the other is not.

I regret advising something that might be unsafe. Accordingly, I withdraw my comment about using a piece of wood between the jack's saddle and the frame or crossmember. We can't always assume what folks will do or fail to do when it comes to safety. Your point is well taken. And, thanks for pointing it out. dance

Best,

Charlie computer

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,033
Likes: 107
Hall Monitor
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
Hall Monitor
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,033
Likes: 107
The cross member could very well be rusty and not visible from the outside. The front cross member on my 38 needed to be replaced because the leaking oil combined with dirt to plug any escape for water. It wasn't visible until disassembly for the restoration and the two bolts (visible in the OP's photos) holding the core support twisted off showing they'd rusted to only 1/8" cross section inside the cross member. Once we got everything off we discovered the cross member metal had rusted to paper thin. We fabricated a new cross member. The frame rails should be safe for jacking and jack stand location.


VCCA Member 43216
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
1938 HB Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
Your 1938 with leaf springs has a very different cross member than a knee-action car. If the Master Deluxe cross member is weak the front end would colllaspe due to the knees being way out on the ends, a foot beyond the side rails of the frame, If it would be rusty (and I never head of one being rusted out) and would crush with the use of a jack it would save your life as it would be better than colasping on the road and causing an accident.The cross member was of box design with very large drain holes at the lowest center point.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
So when I look at the photos, there is a separation of the metal at bottom centre. There appears to be debris sticking out of it. Moving over to the right there appears to be a hole with ragged edges and through the hole you can see the back wall of the cross member.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Hi gentlemen,

Thank you all for the great replies. Great points were made and I will look closer at the cross member to see if there is any rust or corrosion. Will be back with pictures Sunday!

Thanks


Jonathan W. Ketron
1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Hello all,

Here are more photo's of the area that has been discussed. Aside from slight surface rust and cobwebs, I don't see any metal issues. I suppose someone had previously lifted the car with a floor jack right near the center of the hollow beam brace that connects each wheel as you can see wear marks. Is it ok to lift at this point as well?

Thanks

Attached Images
1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg 8.jpg 9.jpg 10.jpg

Jonathan W. Ketron
1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
I always used that point on my 1934 which had the same cross member.


Gene Schneider
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 72
Hi Chev Nut, thanks for the pointers. I will do the same.


Jonathan W. Ketron
1937 Master Deluxe Business Coupe

Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
4 members (CuChiRVN, JEC51, corvaired, CarDC), 74 guests, and 11 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
aristech, RalphL, tonysk
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,071
Posts429,053
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5