Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#469906 05/18/22 02:30 PM
Joined: Aug 2015
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Time to replace the radiator in my '38 Master Deluxe. Having a hard time cooling in the TX heat. Last time out, it overflowed in the garage just as I got home. Now that the water evaporated, there is a nice little pile of rusty power on the floor.

I see one at the Filling Station - but they don't have any pictures. The part that is in the car now is a Harrison 3112127 Date Code 38H. Which would align with a build date of May '38.

While the car has been in the family since new, there may have been some part swapping over the years. I went through that when I replaced the carburetor.

Is the Harrison 3112127 the correct radiator for the Master Deluxe?

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h
H would be August and 38 the year.
There is no 3112127 in the parts book but 3112128 s listed for a 1939 passenger car.
The 1938 tank/core is listed as 3109032.
I doubt if a 1939 core would fit in a 1938 but ???
Note that in 1937, 1938 and 1939 the Master radiator had more COOLING FINS than a Master Deluxe due to the 3,73 rear axle ratio ratio putting more load on the engine. The Master used a larger fan blade as well.
If you bought a new radiator for a Master Deluxe you got a Master radiator.
They all had the same number on the tank as that is actually the tank number and the same tank was used on both models, just the core was different.

Also if you replace the radiator the block should be fully cleaned out also as the rust that is in the block is what is plgging up the radiator and causing the engine to over heat.


Gene Schneider
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This is what is currently is in there -

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If the fins are still ok on the core, and no leaks , a radiator shop may be able to take the top tan off and rod out the vertical passages. The top inlet fitting may be rusted away and not deflecting the coolant away from the filler cap.


JACK
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Most older radiator shops will be able to do as Jack suggests (and I recommend as well). While the radiator is out remove the water pump and freeze plugs and scratch and flush as much of the lower water jackets as possible, you will be surprised how much rust is collected in there. I had my 38 block tank cleaned prior to machining but scratched another cup full of rust out of it afterwards.
Tony


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I agree with those who advised finding a radiator shop that will you a rodding job, i,e, taking the top tank off, boiling the core with bottom tank, rodding out the flues and fixing the leaks after reassembly and testing.

I doubt many shops will do that now. If you do and there are minor, tiny leaks detected you can use some stop leak and that may seal up sufficiently for your purposes. "Solder Seal "come to mind.

My father ran a radiator shop for many years and installed new cores, if needed (Harrison for GM cars and McCord for Ford and Chrysler ones), but most went through the rodding process. A few flues that can't either be rodded out or have too much damage or rot can be eliminated if needed and still function satisfactorily. I worked and apprenticed with him from about 1944 until 1954 when I volunteered for the draft and did a two year hitch in the army.

I ran the shop from July 56 to February 58 when I closed it and went back in the army for 18 more years. (First good career decision I ever made.)

I still have a few old NOS radiators upstairs in the garage. I'll check to see what I have.

Best,

Charlie computer

BTW: Simply boiling over after a run may be the result of over filling the radiator and always caused by overheating owing to the radiators ability to cool as intended. Water expands when heated so you need to leave enough room in the top tank to prevent discharge of coolant when it's hot and especially just after stopping the engine. Owing to this water expansion factor overflow tanks were invented for the hard-headed ones of us who practice overfill filling because we want all the coolant in there that can be had. Generally the overflow tube will take care of the excess but it will make itself evident on the floor of the garage or someone's nice driveway.

BTW2: A back-flush may help some of the flues the have been plugged by rust but only the ones loose enough and necessary to succumb to the pressure and not the more stubborn ones. Usually a proper back flush even using a Kalamazoo water and air adaptor is just masking the problem and any success will be short lived. dance

BTW3: I wholeheartedly agree that removing the water pump and foundry molding residue access ports (freeze plugs) is a good idea. By itself not very effective. You can also back flush the block via the petcock at the rear of the block on the driver's side. Only thing is some of the smaller passages in the engine are had where the the head meets the block and thus will be difficult to clean except tank boiling with a chemical solution. Engine rebuild shops offer this service. But, well, you know, that entails a heap of decision not easy to be made.

BTW4: I also checked 1929-48 parts book and see that Gene was correct. As he almost always is. You know. bowdown

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And once the cooling system has been properly cleaned do not use straight water but a 55/50 antifreeze mix. This will prevent further rust problems.


Gene Schneider

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