Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#469149 04/21/22 08:35 AM
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Grease Monkey
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Thanks for adding me to VCCA! I'm helping a local widow sell the last of 5 antique cars that her husband bought decades ago. The others were Model A and Model T cars. This one is a Chevy. I'm told it may be a 1930. I joined here to find pictures of similar cars. What do I need to look for to determine the year model? Where can I find the serial/vin number of the car that I can use on a Kansas Bill of Sale? The car is really rough even though it's been kept inside for decades. Thanks in advance! Jon Patton Tribune, KS.

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John,
Welcome to Chat.
For identification purposes (not Bill of Sale) open the hood and look for the tag on the firewall. This is the Fisher Body tag, not the I.D. plate, for the car. Post the info from the tag and someone will decipher it for you. Once we know what you have, we can tell you where to look for the I.D. plate

Mike.


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In most states the engine serial number was used for title and registration until 1955. If it has a Fisher Body plate on the top driver's engine side of the firewall the "Car No." plate will have been nailed to the main sill near the battery. Open cars (Roadster, Phaeton) do not have a Fisher Body plate and the "Car No. plate was nailed to the passenger side front seat riser.

The 1930 dash has round dash instruments. 1929 has oval dash instruments. Both 1929 and 1930 engines will have 825501 casting number between the fuel pump and distributor. The casting date is a coded number with a letter A - L indicating the month a space then the day of the month a space followed by the last digit of the year.


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Kansas was an engine number state. If you have the title and the engine number matches the VIN on the title you're golden. If you have no title or the engine is gone or the numbers don't match you'll need to contact the Kansas Department of Revenue to determine their procedure in obtaining a valid title.


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One fast way to see pictures is to go to Google - Images and try "1930 Chevrolet". If those pictures don't look like what you have, just keep changing the year up or down until you hit the pictures of what you have.

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Hi Wallhangers

Kaygee's idea is a good one and one I use.
Most of the pictures you find will of course be exterior shots.
IF the car you have is a closed body like a sedan, couch, coupe, etc, a good way to tell the 1929 from the 1930 (which look very similar) is to look at the windshield.
The 1929 windshield stands straight up and down, whereas the 1930 windshield is sloped back 7 degrees and can be seen when looking at where the windshield meets the front corner pillar.

Hope this helps!


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A 29 didn’t have a gas gauge on the dash, it’s on the tank, the 30 gas gauge is on the dash. The rear brakes on an 29 were external bands, a 30 were shoes inside the drums.


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Grease Monkey
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Thank you to all! I have used Google to get to where I thought it was a 1930. Just trying to confirm my assumption. No title with the car. I sold a 37 and a 39 Ford truck last year and was able to do it with a Kansas Bill of Sale, once I was able to find a serial number on the LH frame rail. Kansas HiWay Patrolman said anything older than 1950 is pretty simple IF you have a serial/vin number. I will check the gauges and the angle of the windshield tomorrow. Once again Thanks!

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As I said in my earlier post, the Fisher Body tag on the engine side of the firewall, will be THE UNDISPUTED item for identifying the car.

Mike


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Grease Monkey
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I had it on my list of things to check. I just didn't mention it when I responded. Thanks again!

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Unless things have changed since I titled my 38 (I live in Ark City) the original title was done using the engine number as the VIN and that number needed to be displayed to the inspector. If it still has the original engine in it, and if you plan to keep it, you can use that for your new title. I do know things have relaxed a bit in Kansas in respect to the person doing the title inspection having to know what they're doing. When I got my 53 inspected for title transfer the inspector listed the model as "Powerglide" because that's on the trunk. I didn't notice until after the paperwork had been done and had to pay another titling fee to get it corrected. My 53 came out of Oklahoma where they used the serial number on the driver side A pillar as the VIN. Whatever number they choose to use, as long as it stays on the car, you're good to go. Since Kansas was an engine number state a LOT of folks run in to titling issues because they buy a vehicle which has had the engine replaced sometime in it's life without the title being reissued with a new VIN. Now they're trying to get the title put in their name and the "VIN" on the title is no longer on the vehicle.


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Part of Jim's original request was to figure out the year model of the car. The body tag is the reliable source for this info. The engine could be from a different year Chevy or from a Peterbilt. If he wants accurate information for a bill of sale or title application, He needs the body tag decoded. The car is what the body tag says it is.

Mike


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Grease Monkey
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Well here's the info on the car. Body tag on the firewall was on the driver's side, Job #30559, Body # K 207. Dash instruments are round, including fuel gauge. Casting number between fuel pump and distributor is 835501(instead of 825501). Did not see a casting date (A-L). Windshield is sloped backward. Thanks again for the replies. JP

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The car is clearly a 1930 from the body tag. You are correct the engine casting number 835501 is either a 1929 or 1930 so the casting date is needed to determine which. Yes, my earlier post of 825501 was obviously a typo (at least to me, sorry).


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Grease Monkey
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Well, I went over to the car and did some scraping on the engine block and came up with a date code of D 8 0 (or it's D B 0) couldn't tell for sure. Thanks JP

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That would work out to be April 8 1930 I believe.

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Grease Monkey
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Thank you!


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