Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thats great Terry! I guess I should post my most recent video here too. I’m making slow but steady progress. I hope yours are coming along as well. Here is the link to my new video.

Last edited by Jim_Crowell; 12/07/21 02:01 AM.
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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Here is how I got my new pistons ready to be put back in the block. 28 Chevy Engine Assembly part 2

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Hello all, I have been working on the motor still, but have not posted any videos. I didn’t think it wise to post videos on how to rebuild one of these things without first making sure I can get one to run.
So I’m in the process of attempting to start the motor. It seems like the starter does not have enough power to turn the motor. It does turn but not smoothly. It moves almost in bursts. I hope I’m being clear.
If someone has had a similar experience and can offer some advice, it would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.

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That is not unusual. If you have not had the starter recently serviced now would be a good time.


Steve D
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Check that you have a good ground connection (corrosion happens) and that the battery wires are large enough to handle the current. The 6 volt systems require larger wire than the 12v systems.

I had to do some work to Lurch's starter when I did the engine rebuild a few years ago. Here's a link to that part of the story: Cleaning up Lurch's starter.

Ever onward, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Do you know the condition of the field coils? I ask because I replaced mine with some cheap replacements I got off of ebay (I ended up destroying the originals when pulling the starter apart) and they did not cut it, it barely turned the engine over. I took it to a local starter/alternator rebuild shop (which I should have done to start with) and he had a spare set, worked great after that.

-Tyler

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Tyler's comments reminded me of something.

If you take your starter to a re-builder, make sure you tell them NOT to paint over the nameplate.

I forgot this gem and am sorry that I did.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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And tell them NOT to chisel the old tag off to put on a re-builder's tag!


Ole S Olson
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Thank you, everyone, for the suggestions. I opened the starter back up. I put the armature on the lathe to resurface the commutator with some 600 grit sand paper. Then I cleaned out the gaps on the commutator. I swapped in a set of new brushes, and put everything back together. Man, that motor really spins now. But, does not start. I’m going to keep working on it to figure out the next piece of the puzzle. Thanks again for the help.
Jim

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Howdy,

This electrical check out procedure from Chipper might help. Although written for a 6 cylinder, it works for the 4 bangers as well.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/285347/re-1950-wont-start.html#Post285347

Timing is critical too. Here's a post that describes that area: Timing for a four cylinder engine discussion

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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So the starter is fixed. I have good spark and fuel delivery. The issue I am having now is that I can’t get the motor to spin fast enough while all the spark plugs are in. Without the plugs in, it spins freely with ease. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

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Remove the coil wire and try to turn the engine over. If it turns over; then I would check your timing.(way too far advanced) If it still doesn't turn over I would look at voltage drops through the battery cables and ground connection at the engine block and frame.


Steve
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I agree with Steve.

When starting these engines, it is VERY important that the spark happen AT or SLIGHTLY AFTER top dead center. Always fully retard the spark lever for starting.

If the spark happens before TDC, the burning of the fuel/air mixture will try to push the crankshaft backwards and will fight the starter motor.

Only after the engine is running for a few moments should the spark be advanced to happen before TDC.

Fingers crossed for you, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Steve and Dean,
Thank you for all the help. The steering column is not hooked up to the distributor. It needs to be worked in still. I have read that fully retard is when the steering column lever is pointed all the way towards the driver, but what does that look like on the distributor? Should the distributor lever be pointed towards the passenger side or the driver side? I hope I am being clear on that question. Let me know if I am not and I will try to clarify. Thanks.
Jim

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On a truck spark lever (under the steering wheel and sticking out from the steering column), it is fully retarded when it is pulled down towards the driver. I'm not sure about the linkage connection for a car with the lever in the middle of the steering wheel.

You can check it yourself, though. The distributor is retarded when it is pushed clockwise (looking down on it) and advanced when it is pulled counter-clockwise. Check to see what position the spark lever is in when you turn the distributor one way and the other.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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