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I am new to this but I own a 1955 1st series 3600 that has been in my family since 1957. Restoration is difficult with this truck. Hopefully I can recieve some advice here.

Welcome to Chatter.
There is a lot of useful information on this forum, you just need to ask the questions.
Your truck looks to be quite useable as it is so restoration will probably only neccesitate tidying up and maintainence.
Tony

Welcome! Being a 55.1 makes it an open driveshaft so some replacement parts will be readily available. You've come to the right place for answers.

Welcome to VCCA Chat! I agree with Tony. You have what appears to be a very solid vehicle that is all there. There are lots of members of this forum who can help you with guidance on your project.

My first suggestion is not about the vehicle itself. I strongly recommend that you take some time to determine what you want the vehicle to be when you finish your work. For example, do you want a daily driver that will be noticed as you go about your day? Or do you want a VCCA and AACA award winning vehicle? How original do you want to keep it? And of course this objective has to be aligned with your financial considerations.

There are 3 rules that I have learned over the last 15+ years of working with these classic vehicles.
- The 1:2:2 rule. For every hour you spend removing a part you will spend 2 hours cleaning/refurbishing/repairing the part and 2 hours re-installing it.
- Everything will take longer and cost more than you plan or like.
- I spend as much or more time researching and acquiring the proper parts as I do installing them.

Thanks for the replys. So far mechanically, everything has been rebuilt like new. Hopefully I can can post a video of it running. Im trying to at this point to remove the surface rust and prime the truck so it doesnt get worse.

That sounds very promising with the condition of the mechanicals.

I agree that prepping and priming the truck is a good next step. Typically primer is not long term solution to rust prevention. In addition, some primers also have a recommended maximum time before they are top-coated. If that time is exceeded the primer should be scuffed and another cost of primer applied.

Thanks Rusty. I wasn't aware there was a time limitation on the primer. I plan on using Speedokote epoxy black primer. As far as any body work, my future plan was to take it to a certified restoration shop to get a quote on the body work and final painting. Right now this truck is 95% original. The fuel pump has the original AC on the glass bowl. It even has the original heater in it as well.

Check the information for the primer you plan to use. Note that I said “some” have a time limitation. Remember that the purpose of primer is to provide a good bonding surface for the top coat.

You might want to talk to the shop that will do the painting before you select your primer and color. The color of the primer could affect the appearance of the top coat. For example, a dark primer might affect the brightness of a light color topcoat. Also, the primer brand needs to be compatible with the top coat brand. Most paint shops prefer to have one brand of products for all the layers they apply to a car.

Many years ago I earned my living as a body man. At that time one would never consider painting over rust since the paint would not stick. The last few years it's become a bit of a fad to spray clear over a vehicle's "patina" to preserve the look but keep the rust from getting worse. Maybe modern paint will stick to rust? You might have a discussion with the shop you pick to do the work about their experience with spraying clear over surface rust if you like the look of a well "seasoned" truck.

Thanks for all the neat information. This is some of the work going on, but the grey primer that I chose was a urithane instead of an epoxy so that will change. Now I'm looking for some emblems . Thanks again everyone.

I will add my thoughts to the paint choice even though I am not properly trained in paint work, but when you choose the paint and color at the paint shop purchase all the materials at the 1 purchase that way way the supplier can match the different materials for compatibility. Also dont have any silicone based materials in a open container in the closed area you will be painting in as it will spoil the finish with most paints.
Tony