Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#466069 01/25/22 11:31 AM
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The first question is I got my 29 lock picked by a good locksmith and keys made. Testing it, it was on or continuous between the screw terminal and the end that goes into the distributor with the plunger in or out. I took it apart and turned the plunger around and it started work as it should. It seems too simple so, my question is there a right/wrong orientation on the 29 plunger?

Second question, I have a couple that need the wire replaced but I am not sure how I would get to the terminal where the wire is soldered on to the inside of the terminal. What is the trick to getting to that point?

Thanks

Dave

Last edited by Dave39MD; 01/25/22 11:32 AM.
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There is an orientation to the "plunger". A small tab on the part that rests against the inside (part with the key slot) cylinder fits into a small hole in that cylinder. I am not sure how rotating 180 deg would be enough of a change to make a difference. Since you found it was different I'll accept that.

To replace the center wire it is necessary to separate the cable from the lock cylinders. There is a ring with two indentions that can be rotated 90 deg. and allow the separation. Once that is done spread the two "legs" a bit so the the two contact bars can be slid out. One bar has the center wire soldered to a terminal. To remove and replace the wire it is necessary to remove the other end from the distributor and remove al the parts to see the brass ring (be sure to note the order of parts removed). A pair of needle nosed pliers or small punch can unscrew the ring and expose the final parts. Once all removed including the spring with copper mesh the end of the wire should be visible. When the other end is unsoldered the wire can be pushed and then pulled out. Reverse everything to replace the wire.


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Chipper,

Thanks so much for that info on the wire replacement. The part about rotating the ring with indentations is a new one to me and will be a big help. I have a few dead ones I can practice on before doing a restorable one.

On the plunger maybe my moving things around caused something to change. It wasn't symmetrical as far as the sides of the plunger, I will take a couple of photos that will explain. I think I will keep testing it before I call it repaired.

Thanks again.

Dave


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