I am restoring a 35 Standard Coach. I am looking for advice on doing the roof insert. When I got the car it had a piece of plywood for the roof. I have replaced the wood ribs etc. I don't know what to use for the padding layers, or how thick it should be, or how it goes together. I have been told to use the new foams as they are better than the cotton batting. I have also been told to stay with the cloth batting as the foam may leave ridges. Is there a sheet of plastic that goes down first to waterproof the inside? I see there are large holes on tabs to screw the metal roof edge to the wood frame and smaller holes to put nails through to hold the material down, and larger oval holes for the metal frame around the opening. I have all the original metal frame pieces with all the "tacks" that go into the oval holes. I need some instructions and advice on how this process is done. Some pics (or a video) would be a great help. Whether I do it myself or have it done, I want to know the proper material and order and process. Thank you for any help. - Pete V
VCCA members have access to a list of over 50 Technical Advisors who can help you with your car. It's worth the price of membership! While you can get a lot of information for free in this forum, sometimes the info that you REALLY need is only available from the right person. This is what "The World's Best Chevrolet Club" is all about!
I know there has been some postings on this site from people who have replaced their tops. Go through Deans search system and see if you can find some of those posts. Personally even after following his directions I have never gotten any search engine to work on this site in the 15 years I have been on here. Other people have had better results. I have seen posts on the Model A site too. Keep us posted as to how your progress goes.
1. Layer of support material: Can be chicken wire if you might install a radio as it can also serve as an antenna. We have used burlap or light canvas. The object is to provide support between the slats. The material is stretched fairly tight and tacked or stapled on the periphery of the opening.
2. Layer of cushioning material: We have used an old blanket, cotton batting but yet any foam. This layer is to provide some support but also be flexible and cushioning. Also tacked or stapled on the periphery of the opening.
3. Layer of waterproof top material: Mostly either long or short grain cobra. Other materials with a different pattern might have been used depending on the year of the vehicle. As the other layers tacked or stapled on the periphery but in this case that is under the molding. We generally use tacks and not staples. Many professionals prefer stables as they are easier to install. A sealer is also used on the edges to impart water penetration and seal the holes from the fasteners. I do NOT like silicone so use windshield sealer, good quality urethane caulk or sealer, Vulkem and another 3M product ??? 2000 most often. They take some time to set so you have plenty of time to install the molding and wipe excess of. A little goes a long way. Are nearly impossible to remove once set. Never had any leaks
The original(??) top material in my '35 Standard Coupe had no grain other than a light texture. I used some long grain material because I had it for another project, and was running out of time to meet my deadline for getting the car ready to drive to the 15th Anniversary Meet of VCCA, in 1976. The metal mesh in my roof is hardware cloth, not chicken wire. As Chipper mentioned, it has a wire soldered to it that goes down the windshield post to to make the mesh available as a radio antenna, if needed.
Do not use foam, it will break down eventually and leave “foam snow”. A cotton or polyester batten material is used for padding and it is cut just shy of the tack line. As was mentioned, chicken wire, burlap, or denim should go down first for support. I like wire or denim over the burlap as I’ve found the burlap stretches out after a while and just gets looser. This is a problem if yo don’t tack it down about every 6” square on the slats. Whatever type of support material used, it should be tacked to the slats every 6” square to help prevent the puffy roof syndrome when driving down the road with a window open or when you close a door with the windows closed and the door puffs up. There’s definitely info here about doing the roofs as I’ve personally posted plenty on my technique for installing them. You should be able to find them.
Thanks everyone for the replies. Think I'm going with the chicken wire. No foam will be another choice. Wasn't too keen on foam anyway. I kind of like the blanket idea. Got some info about the vinyl top. Tuxedo is the pattern and it is made by Haartz. I will try to check out the other threads. will let you know.
