Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
jmmmn37 Offline OP
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
I have a new gauge cluster that I am planning to install in my 1951 Suburban. The engine is a 1952 235, currently in the truck and running well. I've removed several temp gauge sensors in the past, but this one is acting like it doesn't want to come out without a struggle. I'm very wary of applying too much pressure with the wrench for fear of cracking it off. There is certainly some paint build-up on the threads, which I will remove, but I fear there may be rust, etc., also making extraction difficult.

I'm writing to ask if anyone might have good hints or advice about removing the sensor. I will certainly apply a solvent like PB Blaster. Would applying heat here be a strategy or advisable--besides ruining the engine paint in that area, will heat be effective on that much cast iron in that location?

Any hints or advice are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 10
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 10
Sounds like someone WAY over tightened it. Since the maximum pressure it should ever see is about 12 psi it really does not have to be all that tight. You don't specify what type of wrench you are trying to use. I have found it is best to get in a position where you can use a good 12 point box end wrench. Other than that just be careful. If it acts like it is going to twist off then go ahead and use a little heat. Sometimes heating it up several times and spraying penetrant in between like some one else talked about works best.

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 41
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 41
A method I have had success with is to gently tap the parts you want to separate with a light hammer while the PB is soaking in though you may need to tap and soak for a while. The bulb is held onto a tapered seat and over time corrosion is a very good glue.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
I don’t understand how one can put a box end wrench over a sender that has a line coming out of it.

Mine was stuck like that too. I think soaking it with something might be helpful. I eventually pulled on mine expecting it to break and it came loose.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
Use a tubing flare wrench.


Steve D
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
That is different than a “box end wrench”. Anyway I gather the problem is not rotating the nut but dislodging the sender.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
jmmmn37 Offline OP
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
No, the problem IS rotating the nut; dislodging the sender might be a second problem, but for now, the problem is getting the nut that secures the sender to move. I fear that if I crank on the wrench to loosen it, it might break and leave me with a real mess. I can get an open-end wrench on it or a tubing flare wrench, but in either case, I want to make sure I get it loosened in one piece. That's why I inquired about heating up the cast, or other strategies. Thanks.

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
I would think that you don’t want to heat up the cast more that what the motor does. That is because it is a temperature sender filled with ether. Of course your flare wrench will give you the best chance of success.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,021
Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,021
Likes: 99
I appreciate your cautious approach to this. I understand your concern. One key place to watch is where the tube comes through the nut. You do not want to start twisting the tube if the nut does start to turn. I agree with lots of penetrating oil and letting it soak.

I would also try to remove it when the engine is hot. Maybe even do 2 or 3 heat cycles after the penetrating oil soaks. The “remove it when hot” trick almost always works with oxygen sensors that you think will never come out.

And don’t forget the trick to make the first move one to tighten it. If you hear or feel a little “crack” you are on your way to success.


Rusty

VCCA #44680
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
First, are you trying to save it? If so then what the others have advised is about as good as it gets.

If you are not trying to save it then use a suitable wrench (I'm thinking the "nut" is square) and use all the pressure necessary to loosen it. If it wrings of then simply use a drill and easy out.

The reason I question whether you are trying to save it or not is because you mentioned a new cluster and I assume a new cluster comes with a new gage.

Best and good luck with it.

Charlie computer

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
jmmmn37 Offline OP
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
Thanks for the good suggestions. The "remove it when hot trick" makes a lot of sense. No, I am not trying to save the sensor--I have a newly refurbished cluster with a new temp gauge; just trying to avoid having to resort to "a drill and easy out", as Charlie mentions.

I am not in a hurry on this, seeing that I won't be installing my new wiring harness and gauge cluster until I complete a few other tasks on the restoration. Just trying to prepare in advance for the replacement.

Thanks again,

Jim


Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
4 members (JEC51, corvaired, CarDC, Nick_in_Manitou), 66 guests, and 10 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
aristech, RalphL, tonysk
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,071
Posts429,053
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5