Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#311226 06/25/14 08:18 AM
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47Aero Offline OP
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I have been trying to remove my king pins as per the book (removed circlips and cotter pin) and drift it out, (by pushing through the bottom end cover), but I have belted it with the BIG hammer, and it doesn't want to play ball. All I have done is damage the end cap, but the king pin has not moved. It's in an awkward position so it would be difficult to press it out. Any tricks? My arm hurts !

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47Aero #311229 06/25/14 09:24 AM
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On my 41 I have always had the king pins pressed out at a machine shop and the new ones reinstalled there. It usually doesn't take the shop very long. I think it maybe under $50 for the work.

Good luck, Mike


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47Aero #311230 06/25/14 09:40 AM
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The end cap needs to be removed, use a sharp punch and take it out. If you have a good dead blow hammer that helps, sometimes heating things with a torch also helps. It is not easy to get them out.

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You didn't mention if you removed the tapered lock bolts????


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Yep took it out. (ops..we call them "cotter" pins")

47Aero #311346 06/26/14 10:32 AM
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I have never heard of them referred to as "cotter " pins, but have heard "draw bolts or pins" . I am now curious what you call the "lock pin" that holds a clevis pin in a clevis. That is what I would call a "cotter pin".


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The tapered bolt that holds the king pin in place is called a "lock pin". A "cotter pin" is a double legged wire pin that goes in clevis pins and etc. with the legs bent back. "Cotter pins" come in various lengths and sizes.

To remove the king pin, the tapered "lock pin" (bolt) has to be removed first.

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I don't like the description of "bolt' as a "bolt" has a head on one end of a cylindrical shaft and is threaded on the opposite end. The "lock pin" in this case is a cylindrical tapered shaft with no head on it and is threaded on the end with the smaller diameter. A bolt will apply pressure parallel to the shaft while the "lock pin" applies pressure at 90 degrees to the shaft. I am not sure by the replies that he actually has the "lock pin" removed.


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Here in New Zealand it would be cotter pin for the lock pin and split pin for the clevis pin. Traces of the old British Empire I guess. I prefer the American terms. They are more descriptive of the function in general.


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Thanks for the clarification. I guess the the phrase "a picture is worth a thousand words" sure fits in this case.


Steve D
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"Split pin " and "Cotter pin" here in Australia too. I have removed everything that can be removed (except the KING pin!!!). It is difficult to press out because you can only press it out one way, as the upright curves over the king pin hole, and won,t allow it to come all the way out. Heat and hammer time!

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Just did my king pins a few months ago. If you didn't remove what the shop manual calls the "King Pin lock Pin" they wont budge. Take out that lock pin first, Then remove the king pin bearing plug covers and lock rings from each end of the steering knuckle. Remove the bearing plugs with a sharp punch by driving it through the lower plug this will force the king pin upward knocking the top plug off. You can then remove the king pin out the bottom using a flat punch. Did both side in a little more then an hour. You may have to remove some crud to see those lock pins??



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Heat and hammer worked, and on the up side, I remembered I had some NOS steering stuff in a box somewhere and I found new kingpins with bushes and thrust bearings!
It looked like it was years of crud/rust where the king pin goes through the upright. yay

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Advice needed to remove the "King Pin Lock Pin" on a '29 1.5t truck...On the driver's side, the threaded end of the "Lock Pin" is missing, which means the "Knuckle (or steering) Stop" is missing, which has allowed the tire to wear into the steering connecting rod. I've been soaking the Lock Pin with penetrating oil for a week and have increased my hammer size from small ball peen, to large ball peen, to small sledge. The pin hasn't budged. Do I simply hammer harder? Apply heat? Remove tire/wheel to perhaps reduce binding? Thanks.

47Aero #453029 01/15/21 08:10 PM
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Yes I would remove the tire and wheel mostly for access room to swing the hammer. Heating the area would certainly help and be sure you are pounding the pin from the correct (threaded) end. If you have mashed the end of the pin it may require some grinding to get it back to original dimensions and use a punch just smaller than the pin diameter. Hammering on the pin alone will most likely result in peening the end of the pin. Good luck and let us know the results.

Last edited by m006840; 01/15/21 10:15 PM.

Steve D
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Those lock pins can be almost as difficult to remove as the king pins themselves.

I agree with Steve that you need make sure you have not mushroomed the end of the pin. I also agree that heat will help, maybe even a few cycles of heating and cooling.

One trick we have used is to set up a 2 jaw puller to push on the end of the pin while you heat that area. Having a lot pf pressure on it while heating seems to make things pop!


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Thanks for the advice. I'll check for mushrooming. Most of my hammering has been done with a brass rod, but I did start with a steel punch. Heat, a puller and tire removal are all on the agenda. Will keep you posted.

47Aero #453256 01/20/21 09:05 AM
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The lock pin is being stubborn. I had some mushrooming, but because the threaded end of the lock pin was broken off under-flush of the axle surface it did not appear to be an issue. However, I Dremeled it off and now know to keep an eye on it. I've used my propane plumbing torch to heat the axle where its hot to the touch. After two hot/cold cycles, still no movement. Perhaps I need to get it hotter? Can it be over-heated? I'll be looking for a puller that can apply force to the pin while being heated. Thanks.


47Aero #453269 01/20/21 12:28 PM
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I have seen cases where a regular plumbing torch is enough heat. I am not sure that is enough in this situation.

There is such a large mass of material in the axle that it absorbs a lot of heat. With that small propane torch it will be difficult to get the pin hot enough to break it loose.

With an oxy-acetylene torch set for a small flame you can get the pin pretty hot (maybe a little red) and it will not damage the axle. Then hit on it with punch while it is hot.

One other trick that sometimes will work is to spray it with penetrating oil while it is hot. The idea is that the sudden cooling will shrink it and break it loose. That works really well if you have pressure on the parts while you are heating them.

In some cases just getting the pin real hot and letting it cool down for a few cycles helps.

Remember to have something to stop or catch the pin when it finally breaks loose. You do not want to damage anything.

Patience is the key!


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47Aero #453271 01/20/21 01:09 PM
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I've been trying to heat the axle, thinking that I would be making the hole larger that the pin, but your suggestion to heat the pin dovetails with a similar experience my son-in-law had on an old VW bug. I'm trying to be patient. The last thing I need is to bust the axle just trying to add a wheel stop! Thanks again.

47Aero #454173 02/09/21 07:32 PM
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I drilled mine out until they were very thin. I then collapsed them with a punch. The drilling was nerve racking.


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