Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Hi All
I’m new and may be looking be a member.
I may be buying a 1925 Superior K Touring and I’m a bit green here.
This would be my first car of this vintage mostly I’ve owned 60’s GM Muscle cars.
So before I take the plunge I’d like to know a little more about them and any suggestions on what I should be aware of when looking at this vehicle before I decide to buy it
Thank you for you support

Deb

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Going from a muscle car to a 4-cylinder car is a major leap. You need to do a lot of talking to owners of the early 4-cylinder cars and perhaps let you take a test drive in one. Us 4-cylinder owners like the idea of tasting the conditions of transportation that was available back then. Before the virus we had several tours each year devoted to just 4-cylinder cars and had a blast. I have owned many 4-cylinders and still have some. They have been a source of extreme pleasure to own and drive. So, check it out before you take the leap and see if it is your jar of honey.

devil Agrin


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Thank you for the advice
I know they are night and day different I also know that with out the Superior my 60’s muscle cars may not of existed.
The history behind the car is wonderful. I admire it for what it is in all it’s somewhat simplicity compared to today’s and even 60’s vehicles. It may not be a V8 but I appreciate what it is.
Thanks again for your insight
Deb

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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Hi Ray
This wont be my first 4 cylinder. My first was an opposed 4 in a Piper Archer II ????
Thanks again
Deb

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Hi Deb,

The opposed 4 in the Piper is night and day different from a 1925 Chevy engine. ;-)

I have a couple of these vintage vehicles (see the links in my signature) and like Ray said, they are a blast! Slow, yes. Unique, absolutely!! Crowd pleasers, you bet!

If you lived near me (near San Francisco), I'd love to show you what they are all about.

However, there is a VCCA chapter in your neck of the woods, the Erie Canal Region. I'll send you a Private Message with the contact info for someone who is in that chapter. Maybe they can hook you up with a person who has a pre-1929 (4 cylinder era) Chevy and you can get some insight into the wonderful world of these antiques.

Look for the flashing envelope at the top of the page next to your username. That will take you to your messages.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Thank you Dean
Yes I know there is a big difference lol I don’t have any preconceived notions that it would be the same as a muscle car past or present nor isn’t anywhere near my opposed four but the thing they have in common is the fun of owning them and enjoying what they have to offer

Thank you for the additional information about the Erie chapter
Sadly the virus situation doesn’t help getting out there todo these things.

I do have friends with similar vintage vehicles and they mirror what you are saying regarding the enjoyment the have with them.

Thank you again
Deb

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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Ray
I see you own a 1925 Superior K Roadster
Can you possible answer a question regrading the engine.

Im getting conflicting info regarding the 1925 171 ci engine that it shouldn't be run for ling periods over 330 mph due to the bottom end of engine being weak. Also that the valves are external need to be oiled every 15 miles. I see the pushrods are exposed but that's it.

Regards
Debbie

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Hi Deb First of all my 1925 Superior K Touring for some reason can't seem to run 330 miles per hour. There must be something wrong with mine.(:. I can remember My dad driving over 60 miles to a car show without stopping. I was 12 and now that I'm old my memory isn't like it used to be. Mine hasn't been driven since 1962 do to the disturber/oil pump crystalizing. For years my dad tried to find one and even tried to have one made but to no avail. He died at the age of 54 and it has set ever since. I finally for on that had been machined out of brass instead of pot metal like it was originally.

With the help of Dens, a VCCA member, it is finally running. Have fun getting ours going and please let me know if you can get it over 300 MPH..

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Last edited by jschildberg; 11/25/20 12:09 PM.

John EF Schildberg III
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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Hi John
Thank yo so much for replying

Must need the booster packs lol :) Sorry about the typos, zero usually mean nothing but in this case it means something.

Im so glad to hear you were able to get yours running, Love the picture.

So no issues with going over "30" mph and on longer trips?
Do you need to stop to oil it ?

I also was told it has strap rear brakes only and doesn't stop well is that fact or fiction??

Regard's
Debbie

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Deb,

My 24 owners manual says oil the rockers and felts every 250 miles. I would get a manual from the filling station if they have them or find one on ebay. My 24 brakes are external band brakes and only on the rear but you really are limited by the tire foot print as I can easily lock up the brakes. My car and I seem comfortable at 25-30 and the brakes are fine for that speed but others do go faster. There is a strong group of VCCA members who regularly tour 4 cylinder cars for days at a time maybe more will chime in.

Dave

Last edited by Dave39MD; 11/25/20 02:12 PM.
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Deb1925 Offline OP
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Thank you Dave

I have the Repair Manual but not the Owners manual

I hope they do that would be great.

Thanks again
Debbie

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I should of said Chevrolet called it an Instructions Manual on my Superior. They seem to appear often on ebay and are an interesting read.

Dave


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Just for the record, I was a member of the 4-cylinder Annual Tours for 22 years. We traveled the country to gathering spots where we usually stayed about a week. We toured daily and the average milage for the week was in the neighborhood of 400 miles. We toured at our own speed and I drove the Roadster ~45 MPH. On one of the trips we toured to the top of Pikes"s Peak in CO. I have a picture of the Roadster at the monument on top. Breakdowns were minimal, and someone in the tour always had the part or knowledge to get you back on the road. Unfortunately, due to my wife's health and our ages (87) we seldom use the 4-cylinder cars any more.

devil Agrin


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Posts: 305
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Debbie - It's neat to see that your interested in the early cars. I recently had another friend ask about buying a '25 touring car. As others have said, these are fun cars. I have a '23 Touring car so it's a similar car but not as fancy as the '25 that you are looking at.

As Ray had said, here are people that do drive these cars faster than the 35 but my car likes the 35-40 range. Nothing faster.
i drive my car around town mostly but I have done a couple longer tours. I agree with the statement of oiling the valvetrain every 250 miles.
The brakes are a concern if your driving in traffic but you learn to anticipate and don't drive too close to others when possible.
FYI... Chevy started 4 wheel brakes in '28 which is part of the reason that they are more popular on tours.

Here are a couple other items to be aware of:
* Parts are harder to find that the more popular brand. If there is a part that is not in good enough condition for what you want, then act like that part is missing.
* There are only a few retail parts suppliers out there: man named Gary Wallace, Filling station, and Marx parts are the primary.
* Radiators are expensive if needed. The cylinder heads crack easily on these so your radiator needs to be in good condition.

If you have any questions, please e-mail me directly since I'm not on this site as often as I used to be.
Chris


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Hi again,

Chris' list of things to look for reminded me of another item to check.

The body on these vehicles have a wood structure with sheet metal tacked to it for an exterior skin. So, you want a car that has a good wood skeleton. See if the doors sag or if they feel/sound tight. If the headliner is gone, check the exposed wood for any softness or if you can push a fingernail into it.

If you have to replace wood, it becomes quite a task and can get expensive. If you are a wood worker and want to tackle a large project, cool. Many people on this site have done this and can offer advise.

I sent you another PM with my contact info so you can call me if you want.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!




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