Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#403589 02/15/18 09:11 PM
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I have a 32 Special. Are the front pillar post even with the bottom of the sill or even with the cowl filler strip?

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I assume you're referring to the cowl filler strip as the piece of wood nailed to the bottom edge of the front of the sill that the cowl metal gets nailed into. If so, then yes, the bottom of the hinge pillar should finish about even with that strip, and also even with the strip that's under the rocker panel.

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Yes, that is the piece I was referring to. That may be why both front doors stick out about 1/4 - 3/8" at the top. My original front pillar post were rotted away except for the top 12" so I had no sample to compare.. Thanks for your help.

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The end of the pillar post should be even at the bottom with the filler strips. When you say your doors are out at the top tells me your hinge pillar is too deep into the sill. If your sill was also rotted it would be very easy to get the arc of the lower body line off enough to get you that problem. You need to correct that now or it will just keep compounding issues as you go.

In the first picture is my 32' Olds roadster body, all re-wooded and ready to start prepping for painting. In the second picture is the only Olds roadster currently being campaigned and shown. If you look at the picture of my Olds body you'll notice the long slow curve of the body's lower line. Your 32' 4 dr will actually or should have that same sort of long graceful curve to it. Because I'm restoring my Olds, I went to the Olds national show hoping to see one or two 32's. I didn't expect to see this roadster but it was there and was perfect for me to take some reference pictures of. When I was taking pictures of the car, at the time, I couldn't put my finger on it, but I realized something didn't look quite right on the passenger side. Talking with the owner he told me much of the wood was totally missing and they had to reconstruct a lot of the car. Later, looking at the pictures I realized what had happened. The lower body curve had been lost in the restoration and they had mistakenly straightened the body line out. By doing this on the bottom, it compounded things further up and made it necessary to do some incorrect things to try and correct the problem. I won't point out the obvious but I'm sure you'll see what I mean. I hope no one runs and tells the owner, if they know him, what I posted here, as I'm just trying to show why it's important to correct any issue in your wood framing before going any further in your restoration.

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Last edited by Chistech; 02/19/18 11:38 PM.
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Wow! Is the driver's side the same? Why didn't they notice the problem. I couldn't sleep at night knowing I had a fit like that. I have had to make a part 5 times before I got it right. That is even with an original part that I thought was okay for a pattern. Missed a 6 degree offset a few times! You have to guess at some of the wood pieced and then fit it all together, put on the sheet metal and then adjust or remake. Sheet metal damage has to be taken into account. Also making sure both sides are the mirror image of the other. Takes a while but results are very satisfying.


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Thanks for the help. I started putting together the wood by mounting it on the frame without the metal. I had seen (or read) that the wood needs to fit the doors, not the doors fit the wood. I viewed an old film strip from 1933 and at the factory, the put the wood together first however, I don't have the luxury of the metal being in pieces nor a jig. Would you advise to continue putting the wood together on the frame or putting it together in the metal body?

Last edited by nhinchas; 02/22/18 04:23 PM.
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Yes, the wood needs to fit the doors not the wood. It is easiest to temporarily put the wood together (with clamps, screws, etc.) and then hang the sheet metal on it. Make adjustments to the wood and sheet metal as necessary. Unless there is obvious damage to the sheet metal (that includes having the sides be the mirror images of each other) or the major parts don't fit together the wood needs to fit the metal. Just keep in mind that the sheet metal is what is seen and needs to look right. The wood is supporting structure.

If your body sheet metal is still together the whole process is more complicated. You can make cardboard or wood patterns by transferring major dimensions and curves from the metal, then fit the patterns together. It may be necessary to make separate thickness and width patterns for some wood pieces. Thinner patterns are easier to bend and fit. Once patterns are transferred to the properly sized pieces it will be necessary to figure out how to fit them together within the space limited by the metal. It may be necessary to have a diagonal joint in a wood piece to fit into sheet metal and other wood pieces then secure them back together with screws and glue. Just be aware that the wood needs to provide the structural strength aided by the metal.


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