Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#403123 02/06/18 01:11 PM
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Johns31 Offline OP
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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My 1931 Chevy needs a new rear end gasket. A tug that should loosen the bolts does not work. Is it better to force seized bolts with a long pull handle or an air wrench? My concern, of course, is to not break off the bolts.
Thanks for the advice.

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Often times an air in pact will work better because it hammers on it. I have used heat and then just a wrench to work it back and forth.


Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
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I agree


Gene Schneider
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All suggestions above do work but if overdone will do damage. It depends on where the excess tightness is which works best and that generally isnt easy to locate. Try all in turn.
Tony


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Good ideas here. My preference if possible is to remove old fasteners by hand. I will use an impact but only as a last resort. I prefer not to use heat because you never know how it could affect the parts.

Tony's suggestion is one I have often used successfully when a bolt or not does not come apart with reasonable effort. First try to tighten the fastener. Often you can feel just a little movement or hear the parts "crack". Then try to back the joint apart slightly. Keep working the fastener back and forth manually. It should start moving.

Here are 3 tips I use.
- Use 6 point sockets whenever possible.
- Use penetrating oil and keep applying it as you loosen, almost completely retighten, and then loosen the joint as far as possible. Each time the oil works its way deeper into the joint and really saves the threads.
- When I am just starting the process I try to use a flex handle and not a ratchet. It is a lot easier to move the socket and fastener both ways. After things are moving I switch to a ratchet so I can easily make multiple turns in and out.


Rusty

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