FS219 seal, FS15 gasket, FS631A studs (Qty 6),Order these parts form the Filling Station. I assume you do not need any brake parts.
New studs MUST be pressed in by a professional. Then have the old studs pressed out of the old axle so the metal deflector plate can be installed on the new axle. You can cut a thin paper gasket that fits between the deflector and new axle. Also a thin coat of sealer is used at this location.
see picture in shop manual that shows "removing axle shaft spacer". Read text. aLL YOU WILL SEE IS THE HEAD OF THE LOCK SCREW THEY MENTION. wHHEN THIS BOLT ( NOT REALLY A BOLT) IS REMOVED THE SHAFT SHOULD PULL ONT OF THE CASE (CASE IS THE THING WITH THE LITTLE GEARS INSIDE)....Then the block in the picture can be removed Note how the little gears are saaembled. When the two smaller gears are remove The lager gear can be slipped of the end of the (broken) axle shat amd the lock ring removed from the grove in the very end of the axle shaft and then he broken end of the axle should be removed. Once this is done the new axle can be slid in place and the C lock installed, etc.
To remove the axle seal pry out at outter end of housing. The grove for the lock ring of the new axle can act as a pry bar to remove the seal The new seal can be tapped in place with the raised part of the sealing lip toward the axle housing (and gear oil. If you have a problem or question ASKa for help.
The large round magnet )about 2" in diameter can lay in the bottom the the banjo housing....the magnet will cling to the housing and pick-up any metalic chips you may have missed.
The differential will hold 3 1/2 pints of gear oil so get two quart bottles. If it were mine I would use 75W-140 but the oringinal #90 is OK also. Fill to bottom of filler plug opening.
This is about the best I can do by remote controll
A warning. .....When removing te "bolt" with only the head visable use great caution. It is somewhst common for the head to break -ff if too much pressure is used. If it does not loosen with medium pressure work it back and forth (loose and tight) to help prevent it from breaking.
Gene, I can't wait to get to her and back on the road again. I can driver her year round, weather is mild accept hot in summer and a little wet in winter. No need for her to sit during winter. Thank you over and over again Michael
As always Gene's guidance is right on target. It is not difficult technically but you do need to pay attention to details. (Note to self: Do the magnet thing when I pull the cover and change the fluid in the rear end of my '37.)
If you still have some concerns about doing the work perhaps you can solicit help from a fellow VCCA member in the San Francisco area.
We often support each other in the Cedar Valley Region in situations like this. Typically we call on each other when we need an extra hand or technical help on how to repair something.
I often help other people with car projects here in the Quad Cities. In many cases I can spend an hour with someone showing them how something could be done. Then they can keep moving ahead on their own. Maybe about a week later I will stop by and see how things are going.
Wisconsin, I ordered NOS axle from Borth Auto Parts out of Oostburg Wisconsin. I have all of my parts and just watched some rear end repair videos on youtube. -It appears I have to feed the broken axle piece through the rear end and out of the end, otherwise I would have to disassemble/remove the spider gear assembly which might lead to more problems. After watching the videos, I understand your advice and what you are referring to.
Yes after you remove the clip from the inner end of the broken shaft it is much easier to remove it with a magnet on a long stick from the wheel end. You most likely wont need to touch any of the other parts in there though you might like to move the magnet amongst the remaining oil to get any splinters of broken axle that may be still there. Tony
I recently purchased axle seals for my 38 Master from Chevs of the 40s. To my surprise they were NOS seals in sealed packages. I opened one and decided not to use them because of the age of the rubber on the seal.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
"FS219 seal, FS15 gasket, FS631A studs (Qty 6),Order these parts form the Filling Station."
Gene, I've found those parts to be readily available at parts stores. For example the seal is a common SKF 15557.
"I assume you do not need any brake parts."
He's in the San Francisco Bay area. There is a great brake parts supply company in Santa Rosa near him called Chuck's Brake and Wheel. The sons of the original owner run the place and they have been in business for about 50 years and have every brake part imaginable. They can even get friction materials that have been out of production for decades. If you're rebuilding wheel cylinders you don't have to buy whole kits because they have bins of cups for sale by the each. That cuts the cost of brake reconditioning. The same for any piece of brake hardware you can imagine.
"New studs MUST be pressed in by a professional. Then have the old studs pressed out of the old axle so the metal deflector plate can be installed on the new axle. You can cut a thin paper gasket that fits between the deflector and new axle. Also a thin coat of sealer is used at this location."
While a press makes the job easier, studs can be pressed in and out at home using a beefy bench vise. I've even pressed motorcycle crankshafts together in my vise. The trick is to apply some force then thump the movable jaw with a brass hammer. That shock moves the item being pressed and repeating the process gets the job done.
I WAS TRYING TO MAKE IT SIMPLE FOR HIM. EVEN MOST nAPA STORES COULD ORDER THE PARTS AS WELL AS OTHER PARTS SUPPLIERS. I have been in the "parts business" since 1950.
To me the simplest way to get parts is to get them at a local source where they are in stock or at a local warehouse for next day delivery to the retail store. Other considerations are time required to get a part shipped from a distant source and shipping costs. In my experience parts store chains have next day access to items in their regional warehouses and there are no charges for moving items from the warehouse to the retail location.
"I have been in the "parts business" since 1950."
Then you know how easily available many of these parts are from local sources. I'm a geologist, not an auto parts professional. Yet even I know how easy it would be for him to get his gaskets, seals and studs locally. It seems like referring everybody to The Filling Station for parts, as is often done on this forum, is one option but there are others that are faster, more convenient, avoid shipping costs and allow inspection of the parts before purchase to verify that they are not from China..
It's amazing how readily available some of the vintage Chevy stuff is. I found the receipts from when I did the 3.55 gear conversion in my '36 PU in 2010 using a 1937 Chevy car rear axle. The rear axle gaskets fit 1937-54 cars and mine came from Kragen Auto Parts, now OReilley. The receipt shows that one of the gaskets is PN 7022445 and cost $4 and the other is PN 7025323 and cost $7. The wheel bearing seals are SKF 15557.
If you decide to replace the driveshaft front seal is has a rare ID of 1 1/32". The antique parts vendors sell a seal with 1 1/16" ID that is obviously not a correct fit for for the '37-'39 driveshaft. I found a modern SKF double lip seal with the correct ID for that application and made a simple sleeve for it to bring the OD out to the correct diameter. If you're interested I'll find that PN for you. I got the PN by calling Timken Bearing customer service and giving the customer service rep the ID and OD of the original seal. That's another example of how helpful the various companies are in helping us find the correct parts for our applications.
If you do that (remove both axle shafts) the axle and pinion gears will ned to be removed from the case. Te just remove the mentioned gears, remove the axle retining "C" clip and push the broken stub loose.....than with a extended magnet pull it out from the end of the banjo housing or hook it out as it will be smal and light.
Ok, finally got to removing the broken axle piece and pounded out studs for oil plate, pressing studs in by a professional is necessary? Can i draw the studs in by using a lug nut and spacer? I will say, removing the old lugs was a bear. I bought a 4 pound mallet for the job and almost gave up on the last one(not really). youtube makes removing and installing studs look easy, but not so far.
There was another discussion on studs recently and the verdict was to grind them flush, drill the center out and then press/pound them out. Might be best to have a shop press the new ones in so you don't risk stretching them by pulling them in with a nut. Maybe try one and see how much force it takes.
Kinda scary how that axle broke, Wonder if just a flaw or something else jammed? I recall you were just putt-putting around town when it broke. At least you were not at a highway speed. Seeing this has helped convince me to completely redo my complete rear axle when I change the ring/pinion.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
I chose the most inexpensive rout. I would love to change the tranny back and modernize the suspension, but $$$ dictate my actions. I never opened the rear differential so that was an experience. With as hard as it was to remove the broken piece I was concerned i was doing something wrong. I guess the broken piece flared resulting in a coupe of hours to remove. I removed the gear and slid it over the new shaft spline, smooth as silk. Now I have to find someone to press my studs, many it was a bear pounding out the old studs.
Yes, for sure have the studs properly pressed in. The reason being if not installed correctly (not all the way in) it could cause the wheel lug nuts to loosen and loose a wheel.
I found a shop, turned out to be the same shop i went to to have my brake pedal pressed off. I also picked up some gasket material and shellac for gasket seal. I won't be able to get studs installed until next week, too busy with easter and family. Happy Resurrection day Michael
Chevgene and vcca family Its a wrap, rear end is good to go. I finished her last week and took her for a short spin, no problems. Today, Friday 27th i drove around town meeting folks and chatting. 38 ran like a champ. Thank you all for the awesome advice, i followed it to a "T" except the stud part. I literally used the wheel(steel) to pull the studs through. Don't hate me, but i keep asking myself, "What did they do in 38?" and i roll. Next thing is cooling system and installing tube shocks on front end. I'm also waiting for delivery of John Deere Corn Head Grease for my steering box. I'm also painting the undercarriage, unsightly having spent so much time down there. Have a great Old Chevy weekend. Michael 38 Town sedan
