Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Jonda1 Offline OP
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I have an original oil bath cleaner for my 1933 Master coming in the mail soon. It is old and rusted but doesn't look dented from the online picture. I know how to clean and paint the outside of it. But can anyone tell me how to remove the rust and scale from the wire filter element in it so that it won't harm my engine when I install it?
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Dennis

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I would be afraid to use the rusted mesh wire element. That I would replace.
By oil bath I assume you mean the heacy duty air cleaner that actually is filled with oil. My literature states the the oil bath air cleaner was new for 1934......


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Chevgene - - I'm only going by what others have told me about it having an oil bath originally. I also emailed the 1933 Technical Expert and asked him to send me a picture of what it should be. He sent me a picture of one, and I posted it on the internet. I sent a money order to a person who answered my posting for an oil bath air cleaner that looks exactly like the picture the tech expert sent me. My car has a wire filter that I cleaned with K&N Filter cleaner and I oiled back up with K&N Filter Oil that I use on my motorcycle. I was just hoping to put a filter on it that is original. What manual are you using? If it is the 1929-1935 Chevrolet Parts Book, would you post the page you got this information from? If the air cleaner I already have on the car is original I will just leave it on the car. I would post a picture of what I have, and what I have bought, but I can never figure out how to post pictures in these threads.
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Dennis

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Jonda1 Offline OP
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Here is what I currently have on the car. (Sorry about having to use the link)

http://s997.photobucket.com/user/denjones55/media/Chevy%20Air%20Filter_zps8489317l.jpg.html

And here is the air cleaner I am getting over the internet:

http://s997.photobucket.com/user/denjones55/media/New%20Air%20Cleaner_zpskvvweadz.jpg.html

Dennis


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I have one on my 1936 truck. I clean with kerosene and rinse with "Purple Power" cleaner. Refill with oil.

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As Gene suggested replace the filter media. For the canister itself the only way I know of to treat the rust-especially that which is not visible inside would be to have it dipped or soaked in an acid bath. The 32 used a copper mesh media but not sure about the 33.For the copper mesh I used scrub pads. If it should be a "silver colored" mesh I would look for a mesh that would not rust. The air cleaner on the car does not look correct to me. The rusted one does but I am not an "expert" on 33. I believe it's quite similar to the 32 only a little larger.

Last edited by m006840; 01/17/18 02:33 PM.

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I see new mesh listed on epay once in a while. I use OSPHO to kill rust but I sand or blast the rust flakes off first.


J Franklin
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The second air cleaner pictured looks to be the correct one for a '33. It is larger than the '32. It is not an oil bath but uses oil on the metal mesh strips to attract and hold dirt particles.


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Correct, that is a 1933-1936 passenger car air cleaner and is the dry mesh type. I would replace the mesh and it is not easily removable. Do not have it blasted in any way as sand/media could be trapped in the sound silencing chambers and sucked into the engine.

Chevrolet made an oil bath air cleaner available in October of 1933. It was for heavy duty truck service and passenger cars operating under dusty conditions, Cost $6.50 was very expensinve in 1933. It was probably aimed at vehicles operated in the Dust Bowl areas.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 01/17/18 03:45 PM.

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Pic #2 looks like what is on my '33 except mine isn't all grungy. There is copper colored ChoreBoy type stuff inside.

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Chipper - - - I guess I just assumed because it was so much larger than the air cleaner I have on the car, that the one I am getting is an oil bath air cleaner. Thanks for pointing that out. Once again, these are all great suggestions that I wouldn't have know had it not been for the VCCA Forum. Thanks everyone. When the air cleaner arrives I will get busy on it.
Dennis

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The oiled mesh air cleaners work reasonably well in our environment. Not sure how well they worked in the gravel road dust clouds of the mid 30s. Apparently not too bad as many of those era cars (including the engines) survived. Their tolerance for a little dirt had to be greater than todays engines. Thicker babbitt is one way they tolerated a little dirt.


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Something to consider for cleaning out the air cleaner of rust is Evaporust. I have not used it but have seen it advertised on several car shows. It is a liquid you submerge the part in and it removes the rust. Just an idea. Check the auto parts stores.

Last edited by oldchevy36; 01/24/18 11:13 AM.

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Originally Posted by Chipper
The second air cleaner pictured looks to be the correct one for a '33. It is larger than the '32. It is not an oil bath but uses oil on the metal mesh strips to attract and hold dirt particles.

that's JUST LIKE THE K & N FILTERS SO POPULAR TODAY. CLOTH TYPE FILTER YOU SPRAY WITH OIL AND USE ANOTHER SPRAY TO CLEAN IT, THEN SPRAY AGAIN AND RE-INSTAL . Good forever.

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Just a couple of notes on the ‘33 Master air cleaner.

1. When you remove the top cover there should be a thick felt pad underneath. In my all original ‘33 I once had a problem when this pad collapsed so that on acceleration the it would pull down blocking the airflow. Took a long time to figure what was happening. So if replacing that pad make sure it is stiff enough or perhaps reinforce it with a piece of burlap.

2. Once the air cleaner is all painterd shiney black, the finishing touch is the decal available from The Filling Station D-1932. I also notice they have a decal available for the coil D-1024.

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The felt pad was used to silence the noise of the incoming air. Even eleminating the pad complete[y will do no harm.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 01/26/18 10:52 AM.

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One more note from Restoration Tips G and D May 1972 submitted by Pinky Randall regarding the mesh in the top of the air cleaner.

“Remove your old expanded copper colored mesh from the air cleaner and clean it. If it is damaged or beyond cleaning and does not have the bright look after cleaning, try this—— go to your local supermarket and buy a ‘Chore Girl ‘ scouring pad. (I think that it is Chore Boy in the 21st century). Cut and stretch the expanded mesh to the length and shape of the original and replace in your air cleaner. It is copper coated and will stay bright.”

I hope the quality of the scrubbing pads is still the same in 2017

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Jonda1 Offline OP
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The air cleaner has arrived in the mail. It does need to be cleaned and repainted. It does not have the felt pad in the top of it. I'm thinking I will not install one in it. I don't mind the sound created by the suction in the carburetor. I will look for "Chore Girl or Chore Boy" scrubbing pads. I am not sure of how to remove the old mesh other than picking at it with needle nose pliers. The book says to oil the mesh, so I will use my K&N filter spray oil for that.
Thank you everyone for your input.
Dennis

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I have never replaced the mesh but since posting yesterday I have been wondering if my gas mileage is affected by the old mesh. Of course when you paint the air cleaner the mesh gets painted too. I have always felt that I am not getting the mileage I used to. Could also be the quality of today’s gas.

Really happy to hear your brake system is working well.

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Have you checked the plugs for carbon build up? A restricted air cleaner will affect mileage. The mesh should be removed or blocked off for painting as it will flake off the mesh and get drawn into the engine.


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Yes, others are correct in saying the original 1933 Master air cleaner was not an OIL BATH design. I have never had a car with one, but from what I under stand an Oil Bath air cleaner has an area that holds a quantity of oil and the air passing though the air cleaner must pass through the oil and the oil extracts debris from the air before it enters the Carb.

And yes again, your photo above does appear to be for a 1933 Master.

I'm doing a test here, from what I see we can now easily post pictures up to 2 mb in the forum if you use the "Use Full Editor" button. If successful you will see a photo of my 1933 Master, if not you will not. Most of my photos are over 2 mb, so this was the best I had at the moment.

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Last edited by Vila; 01/28/18 01:42 PM.

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Very nice car Vila, your test worked.
There is a air cleaner on ebay, claiming for a 35 or 36. "Chevrolet 1936 1935 air filter 1214". It has an additional outlet on the bottom the looks strange for this vintage, like it is PVC related? I am considering this as I have no air cleaner yet.
My parts book is listing 2 different numbers for 36, Master and Standard. Same with 33-35.
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These people have the air cleaner mesh.

http://www.rjlautofasteners.com/examples.html


J Franklin
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Jonda1 Offline OP
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J Franklin........Thanks. I've never heard of R.J.&L.. That's exactly what I'm looking for.

Dennis

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m006840 (Steve D) - - - I'm wondering about your comment suggesting I give it an acid bath. If I dipped the whole air cleaner in a bath solution, how would I ensure that I drain all of the solution out of the unit. Would I just keep tilting it this and that way until I was reasonable sure it had all drain out? I like the idea of getting the unit clean inside as well as outside. I'm just unsure how to go about it. Have you don't this before?
Dennis

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