VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt 6 v Halogen head lights

Hello Everyone,
I have read a few posts about Halogen lights and want to know if the heat they generate have had an impact on the paint of the head light bucket. ('37/'38) I had initially planned to use them having modified the reflectors for them, but a bad relay burned a bulb out so I never went back to check how hot the bucket got. If it got hot at all.
I am currently using the stock prefocus bulbs and find myself driving at night more. So brighter lighting would be nice.

While I havent compared 6v standard globes to the halogen type the 12v version doesnt seem to be any different. My daily driver was orignally fitted with 55/60 which I replaced with 90/130, while the 90/130 draw more current actual light body temp is still touchable so I diubt it would effect paint.
Tony

Not really an answer to your question but more of a general interest item on this topic: I stumbled on some 6v LED bulbs on Ebay a few months ago that were specified as replacements for motorcycles. They looked like the original style lamps - both base style and shape.

Didn't really look closer at the time but made a mental note as each year that passes there are more and more applications being covered by LED's which in theory should be brighter and draw less power.

Not what you are looking for but I installed 6V haloen bulbs in the tail lights of my 1950.
Going by the ammeter they drew much more amps for the brake lights, burned very hot aaand caused an overload and smoke to come out of my directional switch. One burnt out after a year, Now are replaced with LED bulbs which are bright than the standard bulbs and draw so little current that the ammeter dosen't budge when brake lights are used.I have HaLOGEN SEALED BEAMS IN MY '57 - 12V- AND THEY ARE THE BRIGHTEST HEAD LIGHTS ON ANY CAR i EVER HAD.
tRIED CHEAP led BULBS IN THE TAIL LIGHTS and were dimmer than the standard bulbs.

Hello Guys,
When I replaced the wire harness I installed a 6 volt halogen kit from Cof's which required modification of the reflectors. I also installed a pair of head light relays, one for each side. While testing the system, I found the bulbs generated a lot of heat. The system also developed an intermittent problem which lead to a burned out bulb. Turns out the left relay, which I used to feed power to the right side relay, had gone bad.
Between the concern of the heat, the bad relay and burned bulb, I decided to go with the original prefocus bulbs. The only up side was I had a spare set of reflectors. I didn't go to the sealed beam style because I wanted to keep the original glass lense.
Chevgene, would the led rear brake light bulbs you installed be the same # for my '37?
I purchased a 6 volt led 3rd brake light bar with directional capacity that I plan to tie into my system.

i bought two headlight 6v bulbs for my '30 from hirshauto.com some time ago (through a g&d ad). i just popped them in the sockets and done. i have not noticed a hotting up problem. worked for me. jim

I know LED globe replacements are generally better but by my experience the replacement headlight globes are not much brighter than a match. Some accessory lights are better but still only medium range with a good spread.
Tony

I bought the halogen 6 volt bulbs from HirschAuto for my 38 Master. They have the original style prefocus bulb base. I now have excellent headlights, comparable to a car of the 80s. The wattage is I believe 30/35 for the two beams and they don't produce extra heat.

Does your 1938 have the original 3 brush generator or a later 2 brush? Do the halogen bulbs have greater amp draw?

I tried halogen bulbs in the tail lights of my 1950 and they (especially the brake lights) would cause the ammeter to go way into the discharge range with the engine at idle speed. Also overheated the directional switch causing it to smoke.

My halogen headlight bulbs are labeled as 35/35 watts. I believe the 6 volt sealed beams are 35/40 watts for low/high beam. I changed my generator over to a more modern two brush generator long before I installed the bulbs. I had a problem that I thought was the generator but it wasn't.

Hello Old216,
I know it has been awhile and my question is off my original post, but I think it should be a part of this thread.
When you installed the 2 brush generator, did you reuse the cut- out switch or add a voltage regulator?

When a two brush generator in installed YOU MUST install the proper voltage regulator. Can not use a cut out or a US version of a 1938-39 voltage CONTROL.

I put 100 watt halogen GE HP1 bulbs in my tail light housing for my 35 standard , as brake lights and also in a pair of Harley Davidson cruiser lamps mounted to the side of my luggage rack with red glass lenses. Look like a small version of 33-35 cowl lights. You could also use Gm B-31 back up lights and have to cut a lens for them. When you put your foot onto brake pedal, back of car lights up HUGE, they know I am slowing down.

Down side is you need a 40 amp circuilt breaker wired into your system so you do not destroy your brake light switch.

I run a 100 amp alternator and it draws the charge volts from 14 amps down to 9 at lights with foot on brake. The Harley rack lights get hot if your there for a minute. Melts plastic lenses. These work great as a 3rd brake light system. The more VISABLE YOU ARE , less chance of get nailed from rear .

Ron Francis wire works in PA Has bulbs he had made called BRITE BULBS, that fit into stock socket holders.

For the head lights he had the BRITE head light bulbs also made that use the big mounting ring that twists in also used 1934---1938. Have hi and lo in them. No extra draw shows to volt meter when In use.

I believe ron francis also offers these same brite bulbs in 6V

mike lynch

I am using a more modern 6 volt 2 brush generator with a regular voltage regulator. The headlights are excellent and I am quite pleased with them.