VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 50 235 -water jacket problem

Didnt really know where to post this if am wrong sorry long story short putting 235 in coupe spent last 2 days degreasing wire wheeling engine ready for paint drained water hardly anything came out just like previous owner said so figured must be dry knocked bad freeze plug out and what did i find rusty water and residue half way up the water jacket took another plug out almost same problem drain plug at rear of engine barely draining if i put this engine it will clog up everything in no time i loosened alot of the rusty crap and shop vacumned as mush as i can other then taking everything apart and sending block to get boiled out what can i do couple of suggestions were get a power washer and try and clean water jackets another one was put on engine stand put head side towards floor and try power washing all holes where there are freeze plugs cant do that right now its zero here so im stuck til spring i guess

A product called evapo rust eats rust and is not toxic
Al

I would suggest installing a coolant filter also in the upper radiator hose. The company that makes them is called Gano Filters. Just want to keep as much of that crud from clogging up the radiator I had used one of those filters when I had my 31 and the amount of stuff that it caught from getting in the radiator was amazing, they are also clear so you see what is going on.

That back lower part collects and keeps all trash in the cooling system poor flow .I found that when I added a coolant tank heater to help with winter weather I routed the hose under the oil pan and mounted the heater at frame level to be lower then the block so coolant would run down to the heater and the problem went away I think the one way valve in the tank heater letting the coolant circulate and keep it cleaned out.

I am sure John's recommendation is sound. You may, however, consider doing the following if the problem is severe. (Hi, John)

Take the engine apart and have it and all the parts tanked. Also, have the radiator either rodded or re-cored. Nothing like an over-heating problem to take the fun out of owning an old Chevrolet.

The above will cost you the price of a set of gaskets and the tanking/rediator costs. Well worth the money.

Best,
Charlie

I have seen blocks that have been tanked and never touched the rust. You almost have to get in there with a stiff wire and poke it loose.

Here is a picture of a home made tool that I use to flush water jackets if I'm not doing a full rebuild or overhaul. I has worked well for me but realize there may be better methods especially if the engine is going to be sent out for a professional rebuild. You are looking at a standard air blow gun with the tip replaced a section of 3/16" steel brake tubing. The other end of the blow gun is modified so I can connect it to a garden hose. The 3/16" tubing can be bent into various shapes to reach a variety of places especially when inserted from the top of the block. The rigid tubing works great scratching and flushing debris in the hard to reach areas. The picture shows a 207 but I have used it on 216's as well.

Mike

Cool tool!

I did something similar, but in reverse. I used a coat hanger wire to scrape around in the water jacket and then a 3/8" diameter brass tube that was duct taped to my shop vac to stick into the cavities and suck out the debris.

Cheers, Dean