I've noticedd, over time, that there have been some posts regarding broken axles and stress on engines. There have been several instances where owners have lamented the following:
a. Releaving the stress on the engine by increasing the ratio of the rear gears. That is by going to a taller gear as in going for a 3:55 instead of the normal 4:11. I think the lower the gear will produce less engine stress than the taller one.
b. The notion of the likelyhood of breaking an axle whilst going down the road. I have never witnessed the breaking of an axle in the rear end whilst traveling down the road. The only times I have witnessed the breaking of a drive axle is when the clutch is let out in either first or reverse gear. The car doesn't move the break is instantainious with no forward or backward motion of the car.
My experience may be faulty and not based on sound evidence but I believe it to be true without more and compelling evidence to the contrary.
What do you think?
Charlie
BTW: On a 41 (and other similarily equipped cars) there is only one axle pushing/pulling (whatever) the car at any one time. Add that to your musings.
BTW2: Without looking but relying merely on memory, does your engine in your favoriate old car turn clockwise or counterclockwise when the front, looking back/rearward at the engine? You can picture the fan blade in your mind for the answer.
BTW3: Just trying to help you way up there to have something to do rather than making trycycle motors during those cole winter months.
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Charlie, my dad was a mechanic in a big Chev dealership from 1929 to 1946, and I remember him saying that Chevs of the mid-30's were notorious for snapping rear axles. Dad had a '36 and snapped an axle just going up a hill that wasn't all that steep. Whether it was a Canadian - only occurrence, or a metallurgical problem with a batch of axles over a certain period I don't know. But it did happen apparent more often than you would think. Oh! By the way, Charlie. We have snow up here now. How many carloads would you like me to send you to spread around your house to put the missus into a real Christmassy mood, and make your place the envy of all your neighbours???
An engine pulling a 3.70 or 3.54 ratio would be equal to have six people in the car there by increasing the required power. The Masters from 1937-1940 with the stock 3.73 gears had a radiator core with more cooling fins and had a larger fan blade. On level ground it will be pulling slightly harder but will work much harder on hills. I have never seen any durability problems though. A good 216 with a 4.11 will run at 60 to 65 MPH all day with no problems as long as the oiling system is OK and full of oil. A loose engine or sludged-up engine will not last too long.
I must disagree that one wheel/axle does all the pulling. Due a burn-out and you will leave two big black streaks. If traction is poor for one wheel though that wheel will spin/slip and the good traction wheel will not supply power. This is where positraction come in. Chevrolets that broke rear axles. In the 6 Cyl. range the 1929 was the worst. They made improvements in 1930 but not enough. Same for 1931, still having problems. By 1933 they prety well had the problem solved. 1936 Standard had a lighter drive line and axles so had some problems. Considering the crabby clutch on 1937 and previous models it is surprising more didn't brake axles. Also an owner of a 1936 or prior would be wise to have an axle shat available if needed because after all your working with a car that is 80 years old or so. or those years the left and right are the same.
I agree with Chev Nut, both rear wheels drive under normal conditions but when 1 wheel has less traction than the other it will spin more freely giving the impression it is the only 1 working but that is a false impression as the spinning wheel is the 1 not working, a broken axle is the same as the lack of traction. Most axles break due to fatigue or a fracture and sudden change in torque (either accelaration or deccelaration). Tony
I think it's important to consider that when the early 30's cars were new the roads were very different than today. Also the cars did not get the "royal" treatment that we give our old cars so the chances of breaking and axle today due to driving conditions is greatly reduced.
You know better. Only one axle is pulling/pushing at any one time. They alternate according to the road/surface conditions. It would be hard to go around a curve if both axles were pulling equally and at the same time. Are you forgetting the designed function of the spider gear?
Also a good idea to try and determine which side of the car an axle came from if at all possible,as they tend to twist along the grain axis,and swapping a LHS axle to the RHS(unless one axle is shorter than the other)or vice versa,will tend to "un-wind" the twisted grain structure,and snap goes the axle. Oldsmobiles from 1928-1931 were notorious axle snappers,as Olds used the same axle shaft from the 1st of the Model 30 series in 1923 right up to 1931.They put bigger and more powerful engines up front and the axles just couldn't handle the extra torque generated by the engines.
Also a good idea to try and determine which side of the car an axle came from if at all possible,as they tend to twist along the grain axis,and swapping a LHS axle to the RHS(unless one axle is shorter than the other)or vice versa,will tend to "un-wind" the twisted grain structure,and snap goes the axle. Oldsmobiles from 1928-1931 were notorious axle snappers,as Olds used the same axle shaft from the 1st of the Model 30 series in 1923 right up to 1931.They put bigger and more powerful engines up front and the axles just couldn't handle the extra torque generated by the engines.
Glad my Olds is a 32’ and I have a spare rear end!
Just a follow up on the leaving two black streaks in the pavement with a regular differential. Not gonna happen. See "My friend Vinny" or something like that. Pechi's girlfreind will explain it while testifying from the witness stand.
Sort of easy to understand. Like how to cook grits.
The slick would only have an effect owing to its traction. Nothing more.
This and the issue about only one wheel pulling/pushing at one time are two things that you and I disagree on. With respect to your more experienced knowledge, I will acqueise.
Maybe someone else has some knowledge of mechanical forces will enlighten us both. Who knows.
I would not want your vast followers to doubt you in any way. Thus the "I give" and cry "uncle" I am willing to offer.
All things being equal when a rear wheel drive car is going straight down the road both wheels are driving. When a rear wheel spins it is because it has lost traction equal to the opposite wheel as the wheel with the least traction will spin-not because more power is applied to it. The only wheel that has power applied at all times when driving is the FLYWHEEL.
Being around a drag strip in my youth both wheels would spin at the starting line if each tire had near equal traction and the car was going sraight ahead.
Chev Nut With all drag cars I have seen they have what is termed "locked diff". Most likely the spider (planetry) gears have been removed and a solid sleeve fitted instead. A lot of dirt track racers down here do something similar or lock the planetry gears with a welder, what I call "electric locker". Tony
Chev Nut racing in your youth (I am Guessing you are about my age) you most probably used the "electric locker". (rear cover off and weld all the gears together). Tony
I found that cast iron gears would shatter after electric welding but didnt try 308 stainless rods. Rods designed for cast iron were a little better. Tony
