Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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I'm not sure what direction to go now. I would like to repair the existing rear end with highway gears(ratio?). What would you do? I am open to suggestions.
Thank you
Michael

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Their is nothing wrong with the present "rear end"....just the axle has to be replaced. The first thing I would do is find a replacement part. The left and right ARE NOT THE SAME.


Gene Schneider
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Any suggestions where i might find a replacement axle for my Town Sedan? Is this a job i can do myself or will it require special tooling to repair?
Thank you
Michael

Last edited by solafide; 12/18/17 11:36 AM.
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Michael,

I don't know what you mean by "highway" gears but since we're practically neighbors you might want to have a look at the 3.55 rear gear conversion I did on my '36 PU using a '37 car rear axle.

Although visually undetectable the 3.55 ratio is a really nice improvement over the 4.11 ratio in more practical cruising speed and reduced noise. It would be a much simpler conversion in your '38 than it was in my '36 described in this article:

vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/334876/1936_Chevy_3.55_rear_gear_conv

Ray W

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Lord willing, my axle might not be damaged. Is it possible the axle came out, but is still good? I will have to remove axle againn and record pics
Keep you posted
Julie, michael q

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To my knowledge the wheel will only travel sideways for 2 reasons 1) broken axle or 2) the horseshoe clip on the end in the centre has come off. The clip has been known to come out due to the axle inner tip and/or the separator block and/or the horseshoe clip wearing allowing the centrifugal force causing the clip to dislodge.
Tony


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on my 38 MD tudor,4:22 came out and into the ditch and 3:73 went in,did not have to change axle housing just tube and punkin...3:73 helped some but no cigar ..they need a 3:55 to run good but a PITA to do that ..sc

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If you live in SF and need to start on hills, that's the only down fall to a 3:55 Power Glide ring and pinion. You might look at <http://home.znet.com/c1937/RPM.htm> for some more info. A 3:73 is a good compromise in your coach.

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I agree. The 3.73 from a 1937-1939 will be a direct fit. The 3.55 from a later model will require a lot of modifications.
The 3.73 geas I installed in my '39 made 65 MPH a breeze.


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20+ years ago, I bought a Borg-Warner overdrive which had been welded into the torque tube on a guys '37 Chevy hot rod. He was switching to a bigger drive train, yadda yadda yadda.....

I installed the entire unit (pumpkin, torque tube & driveshaft) which also contained 3.73:1 rear gears, into my '37 Sports coupe. I also switched speedometer drive gears. The combination of the 3.73 gears along with the O.D. has been wonderful and I've taken several long distance (i.e. 1000 mile+) tours & solo vacations in parts mountainous, as well as the Plains area of the USA & Canada without any problems. What a joy having the O.D. - Driving out I-90 into S. Dakota at a sustained 70mph speed with the engine reving at a comfortable spped was wonderful.

If you can ever come across an overdrive and you like to tour, I hardily suggest it. Nice thing is, it can readily be swapped back for "show".


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I am curious about this O D. So where does it sit and how do you control it?


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A few more thoughts on this topic as we head to the New Year.

The link goes to an article about the overdrive unit that was attached to a 3 speed transmission in a car with an open drive shaft. This is the type of unit the factory installed in 1955 to early 60's cars.

I am pleased with the overall performance of the 3:73 gears in my 1937 Master Coupe. That is what the factory installed in Master Models that year. Master Deluxe models got the steeper 4.22 rear.


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It is totally impractical for the average person to install an over drive or even make all the changes to install LATER model gears. If you don't have the ability or the tools and equipment necessary to make these changes it will cost thousands of dollars to make the modification and unless you plan on putting on 100,000 miles it is waste of time and money.
Yes, the 3.73 gears make driving at 65 to 70 MPH reasonable - which can be way too fast for many conditions.


Gene Schneider
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Funny, watching Bogie in Dark Passage when he is interrogating the guy who held him at gunpoint. The guy says, "You know my car can only do 30, you drove it. I can't keep up with a taxi." Not sure I want to do 70 in my 38, suspension and brakes not too good for that speed.

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opened rear end and removed as well as removed axle. Axle splines broken off at end. Is it relatively easy to replace axle? I would upload pics, but. Anyone know wheat the correct axle part number is?
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Michael

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#602969 left 28-41/64" measured from the spline end to the inner face of the flange. Flange diameter 6-3/4". The right hand is 1" longer #602970. Fits 1938 only.


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Replacing the axle shaft is not hard. With the rear wheels supported clear and free, rear cover plate removed rotate the crown wheel until you see a small bolt and remove it. This allows the pin to slide out of the planetry gears and the spacer between the axle shafts. Move the broken shaft towards the centre and remove the "horse shoe" clip, with a reasonably strong magnet on a long stick from the wheel end of the housing you can remove the broken piece of axle. The replacement axle should fit in using reverse procedure.
Tony


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Be sure to flush out any broken pieces of the axle before replacing.


Steve D
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Even worse now, while posting pictures on instagram of opened rear end, someone commented that the teeth on the ring gear are chipped also. Should I:
1. replace damaged parts, axle and ring gear
2. If option replace rear end gears and shafts
3. replace entire rear end.
Thank you all for the help
Michael

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Sorry to hear that there is more damage than you initially thought.

I wonder if your best approach is to locate a complete replacement rear axle assembly. What you have is repairable but it will take time and effort. For example, do all the bearings need to be replaced? There is a pretty good chance that they have been damaged due to the metal particles circulating in the rear end. Do you have access to the capabilities to set the backlash for the ring and pinion?

If you get a replacement assembly I would recommend that you pull the cover and inspect it. As a precaution you might want to replace the axle seals. If the brakes on your current axle look better you can swap them.

This is probably not the way you wanted to start the New Year. It is the realities of this crazy hobby/affliction we have!

Keep us posted on your progress! And Happy New Year!


Rusty

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If the damage is to the outer edge of the ring gear and not where you see the mating pattern I would dress the chipped edges to be sure there are no loose pieces and then inspect every tooth and if no further damage I would re-use what you have. Replacing the bearings might be a good idea but if you decide to reuse them getting all the metal out and cleaning real good will be necessary.


Steve D
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much appreciated. Wish i could upload pics, chips are on edge though.

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Don't bother to go any farther with what you have. Continue your search for a 3.73 rear end.


Gene Schneider
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Rule #1 is listen to Gene!

Rule #2 is do not break Rule #1!


Rusty

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