VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 1946 update

It could be flooded due to all the failed starting attempts.
Let it sit untouched for a day and then try it pulling the choke closed for the first 3 seconeds of cranking over.
Did you forget to install the rotor?
Are the spark plugs sparking? Remove a spark plug and reconnect the wire . When you turn on the ignition and hit the starter you should see a spark jump in the plug gap with the plug grounded.

ok..rotor is in it. Will check spark. If I have no spark then what ? This will sound dumb...where does the spark come from anyhow ? What about the ignition switch ? If it is going bad how does that figure into the equation ?

While possible the ign. switch is about the last thing on the list to prevent starting. If you have power at the coil when the switch is in the on position the switch is OK.
Checking the spark plugs for sprak will will narrow the problem down. If there is spark and gas the engine should run.

I see. ok thx !

Pulled # 1 spark plug and reattached wire. set on top of valve cover. Put a mirror ifo so I could see reflection of spark from driver seat. I cranked the engine for about 4 to 5 seconds at a time for 4 times. Got spark for about 2 seconds of that time. Now what ? Thanks.

This is like to diagnose a medical condition over the phone.

Have been giving this more thought. You mentioned, could the ignition switch be bad....After thinking it over the actual switch may be fine but if the car has the original eletrolock(cable enclosed switch wires) the wire inside the armoured cable may be shorting out.
My test would be remove the wire from the coil and run a new wire from the battery cable connection on the starter to the coil. This will by pass the cable wires. If the engine starts them problem is inside of the cable.....problem-to shut off the engine off the wire will need to be DISCONNECTED.

Yes it is crazy with all this diagnosing !!! Yes...it has the original electrolock. Ok...I can try that test...so you are saying if this test works, to shut off the engine I need to undo the wire ? ( because it isn't hooked to the ignition ) Then I can run a new wire through the electrolock cable and everything should be ok ? haha Thanks !!

I had another thought....I can undo the wire and pull it out of electrolock cable and see if any bad spots and/or just replace it.

The Electrolock is a whole project unto itself and is not quite as easy to replace the wire as it may initially appear.

Try Gene's method to bypass the electolock and go from there. You will need to disconnect the replacement wire to shut the engine off if it starts.

Ohhhhhhh...great..ok well how do I disconnect that replacement wire without getting shocked ?

Just keep up your SPRITS and make belive that you are hunting for a GHOST.......

Check his profile for that one.

There is not enough current to give you a shock.
The spark plug high tension wires will do that.

Ok...that's good !! Thanks...will have time Saturday afternoon to do this hopefully. Will keep you posted.

Ok...that didn't work. The only think not tested yet are coil and condenser. I am at a complete loss here.

Now I have a whole new issue...went out Monday morning to undo all the " test and bypass " wires...the coil was so hot I could hardly touch it.

This indicates that the coil (ignition) was not "turned off" .

This could also have caused the points to burn also if they were closed..

ugh I took off all the" test and bypass " wires...it's ok now...finally cooled...will test condenser later on...if anybody has any helpful ideas I will take them...I know you are all tired of me by now...

I gave up, had car towed 2 blocks to a nice old fashioned repair shop by my house. Both the original coil and the NORS coil I bought on ebay were bad. Plus I screwed up when I installed the points. Did something weird with the spring. They have a nice 6 volt coil on it, purrs like a kitten. Eventually will get one like original. That is all. Thanks.