Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#396170 10/09/17 01:45 PM
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Clement Offline OP
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Will someone please give me SIMPLE instructions as how to test a condenser. I have watched videos and read about it. To me, It's like trying to read a foreign language. My 1946 Stylemaster will not start. I replaced plugs, wires, coil, dist. cap, points, rotor, condenser. It ran fine for 2 weeks. Enroute to a car show 2 weeks ago it just quit and died. ( if you want to read all the discussion, I have posted in the 1946 segment ) I am ready to call it quits and have it towed to a shop and just tell them here, fix the darn thing. This is just not fun anymore. Thanks anybody.

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The best way to test a condenser (capacitor) is with a condenser tester. But.....most guys don't have one of those, so the easiest way then to test a condenser is with an analog multi-meter that has a moving needle and an "ohms" setting.

Here is the standard explanation on how to test a condenser with a multi-meter:

1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or at least disconnect the lead wire). Note the small metal connector located on the end of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the grounding point. Discharge the condenser by shorting the lead wire on the condenser to the metal condenser case.

2.) Switch the analog multi-meter to the ohms position. Place the red lead for the meter into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead for the meter into the "com" or common connector on the meter. Set the resistance range to the highest available setting (if it is selectable). Connect the meter test leads together and zero the meter with the "ohms adjust" knob. If the meter won't zero replace the battery in the meter. (Yes, an ohm meter has a battery).

3.) Touch the red lead on the meter to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead on the meter to the metal case on the condenser. The meter's needle should jump slightly to the right on the scale (toward 0-ohms), then should drop back to the left towards infinite resistance. Hold the leads in place for 15 to 20 seconds. This action places charge in the condenser. If the test shows any reading other than infinity, the condenser is leaking and needs to be replaced.

4.) Remove the leads from the condenser and reverse the placement to the condenser. Move the red lead from the hot connector on the condenser to the metal case on the condenser, and move the black lead from the metal case on the condenser to the hot connector on the condenser. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter needle should jump towards the right on the scale. The second time the needle may move twice as far, as this action discharges the condenser. Holding the leads in contact should again result in movement of the needle back toward infinite resistance.

5.) Movement of the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in any circumstance, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Clement Offline OP
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Thanks. Now that is easy to understand !!

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Excellent instructions!

Mr. Dog, you da man!

Thanks, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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Clement Offline OP
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I just bought a new tester with a analog display...no needle...gives a readout in numbers...what is it supposed to read ?

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Clement Offline OP
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Also what about readouts for coils ? What setting do I need to put dial on and what am I checking for...volts, resistance, ?? Sorry, I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer.

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Sounds like you bought a digital meter and not an analog meter.

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Clement Offline OP
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ok...what does this mean then ?

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Why not just swap it out with a new one ?

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Clement Offline OP
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It is new...I can switch it with another new one I bought 2 years ago still in the box. I am just trying to understand all of this. I am ready to squeeze my head in a vise.

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I would try the other one and if it still doesn't run try swapping the new coil. Lot's of stories of the new electrical parts not working or premature failure. If there is no change you have a spare.

Dave

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ok...what does this mean then ?

It means that you purchased a digital multi-meter that has a direct readout in numerals and not an analog multi-meter which uses a moving needle to read the values on the meter's scale. The step-by-step info. above on how to test a condenser is for an analog meter, not a digital meter.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Clement Offline OP
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ok will switch condenser with another one. Will try the test with my analog meter and see if anything works.

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Clement Offline OP
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I gave up, had car towed 2 blocks to a nice shop . Both the original coil and the NORS coil I bought on ebay were bad. Plus I screwed up installing the points..something about the spring...ugh. Anyhow, it purrs like a kitten. That is all. Thanks.


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