Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 69
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 69
Swapped a 57 235 for my 38 216 in my business coupe. Sent the head out for hardened seats and now it is back. Motor is in 38 and ready to go but I cannot get it to idle and backfires like crazy. Valves are all adjusted according to specification. New points, condenser. Checked wires for proper firing order. Carb is very clean and I checked the float level. looks like big exhaust leeks at the head despite new gaskets and tightened bolt? seems to run a bit better as I advance the dist but still backfires and wont idle. Going to try new cap and rotor next and I assume the exhaust manifold is warpped??? Any ideas please I am running out of options. Thanks!!!

Wilwood Engineering1955-1957

Willwood Engineering

Wilwood Engineering designs and manufactures high-performance disc brake systems.
Wilwood Engineering, Inc. - 4700 Calle Bolero - Camarillo, CA 93012 - (805) 388-1188


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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Are you sure you don't have the distributor 180 deg out of time?


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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You have something installed incorrectly....don't waste money on parts you do not need.
Is the 1957 235 engine from a car or truck?
Sounds like the intake/exhaust manifolds are not tight to the head.....guide rings screwed up.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 09/04/17 05:41 PM.

Gene Schneider
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hmmm how should they be installed... Look straight forward.

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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im sure. can get it to run but really rough then dies.

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If that is the case then manifold or carburetor leak as Gene pointed out goes to the top of the list. A little carburetor cleaner squirted around the intake to head connection will result in getting sucked in and having the engine run better if there is a gap.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 69
tried tonight and it wont run. all else is correct and new (timing, ignition parts, vale adjustments). Pulled carb and there was a puddle sitting the intake manifold. Pulled manifolds and ran a straight edge over them and the are way off. I assume the fuel just sat in intake due to large leak at the head. You guys agree?

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Would be normal to find a pool of gas at the bottom of the manifold due to trying to start the engine and the engine not starting.
Seeing it is getting gas OK I would suspect the problem is either ignition (no spark) or timing (spark at wrong time).
Are the three rigs that go between the head and manifold in place and allowing the manifold to seal up to the head?


Gene Schneider
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good to know...they are there. I assume nothing special I need to do with them except make sure the are present when tightening? Correct? Exhaust leak so bad that side of block is turning black from it. also one intake port was leaking fuel. Yet everything fully tightened.

Cant time perfectly since it wont run. But do move dist while attempting and no luck...

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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can I assume the dist can be in different positions as long as at TDC compression stroke rotor and #1 wire align?


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