Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Jonda1 Offline OP
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So, I'm having more trouble removing the pilot bearing from my 33 Chevy Master Coupe than I've ever heard of. Today I broke a sturdy pilot bearing puller trying to remove it. It didn't even budge. Not even a little bit. I've never run into this before. Anyone have any idea's? Its like its rusted in place or something. I'm wondering if I need to apply a heat gun to it and then use another puller on it. I tried all of the usual tricks like packing it with grease and pounding a dowel into it. Then I used water soaked bread, then I tried water soaked paper and it didn't budge. So I ended up filing down a real puller to fit into it and I was really cranking on it and it ended up breaking the puller.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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Man, I'm having trouble visualizing this... I just removed 6 hubs from 3 front ends for 1931 today. Talk about stuck. But your situation beats mine.

Since your objective is to REMOVE the bearing, then it seems reasonable that you can DESTROY it in the process and not loose anything.

If that's the case, then why don't you start putting a drill bit into the opening and gradually increase the size until you get one that is a tight fit. Make a slightly enlarged opening (ie. Drill that sucker). Then go UP one size larger and keep drilling.

I've never tried this before, but it seems like it might work. In either case, please post here again and let us know what finally works.

By the way, this is also a good way to get heat into the space. So that might benefit the process.

Bill B

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Bill your idea would work with soft metal but if it is a ball bearing the metal is a lot harder than a drill bit.
Tony


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Heat would work good on brass. When cool the brg. would be crushed. I have got steel bearing out of blind holes by putting a spot of weld on the outer race. When cool the race will shrink.

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A little heat with a propane torch would help too. Get it warm enough to melt a wax candle and let the candle wax run down the side of the bushing to lubricate it.

Then, try this special pilot bushing removal tool invented by SOB (Sweet Old Bill) Mulhalland, from the inliners club.

Cheers, Dean

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Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Now we're talking!!

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dlz Offline
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this is how I solved the problem in my 97 pickup with the big block when the pilot ball bearing failed, without taking the engine out. when I got down to the crankshaft with the bell housing and flywheel still on, the only thing left was the hardened steel outer race in the crankshaft, as all the balls and inner race were just ground up. after a week of trying everything I knew, working in a limited space, my last resort without having to pull the engine was to get a diamond bit for my drammel tool which I could get in to the space I cut two groves splitting the race, then used a ice pick between the race and the crankshaft and the race fell out. I replaced the ball bearing type with the standard bronze bushing and my nightmare was solved. I believe this will work with a standard bushing as well.

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Jonda1 Offline OP
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. If it were a "bushing" I would use any of these suggestions. As it is a ball bearing type I can't see how any except the comment by dlz would work in my case. Today I found and bought a slide hammer type puller that might work. If that fails then I guess I will try the dremel with a diamond bit.
Thanks for the help.
Denns

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You might try packing it with dry ice prior to using the slide hammer.


Steve D
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Try this


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Jonda1 Offline OP
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I was able to remove the pilot bearing this morning with a slide hammer. It was tough. I thought I was going to pull the bearing apart I slammed it so many times. But it did come out in one piece. Whew. I could just picture having to pull the engine because I screwed up the crankshaft or something else. Thanks everyone for the advise. It is appreciated.
Dennis

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Jonda1 Offline OP
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Thanks to Harbor Freight.  I bought a slide hammer type puller that fit into the pilot bearing and was able to remove the bearing.  When the new pilot bearing arrives in the mail I will install it.  Then I will install the transmission without a clutch and without the clutch fork.  If it lines up and bolts up with no problem then that tells me the problem is either the clutch or clutch fork.  I will then install the transmission with only the pressure plate and friction disc.  If that goes ok, then I guess the problem is with the clutch fork.  So I'm going to take it one step at a time and see what happens.
Thanks,
Dennis


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