Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rating: 5
Page 2 of 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Thanks, Mike. I did find the steel cam gear in my stash and it looks pretty good.

Eventually, I will have four piles of parts from the three engines I'm tearing down now and some parts from my 25+ year stash of rusty gold.

For now, I am eyeballing the parts in a general way, but will evaluate the parts in the four piles closely when I need to do the final build.

Stay tuned! It'll take a while, but I am having fun! Dean

Last edited by Rustoholic; 04/20/17 06:18 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
The next parts to come out of the second engine is the oil distribution system.

Notice in the pictures that there are copper washers under all the bolts and fittings that go through the block, thus sealing oil leakage opportunities.

The first picture is of the existing oil lines where they connect to the oil filter (not shown). For reference, the two 5/16 inch holes in between the tube fittings are for the oil filter bracket.

The second picture shows where the oil tubes meet at the junction above the oil distributor. For reference's sake, the bracket shown in the photo is for the arm that moves the spark distributor retard/advance push rod.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 09:59 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Here is the oil distributor and the oil trough feeder tubes inside the engine. After all the brackets and holders are disconnected from the outside of the motor, this whole assembly lifts out.

The second picture is a closeup of the bracket that holds the end of the trough feeder tubes in place. A square nut and split lock washer is used in this spot. The bracket holds the nut so that it will not turn when tightened.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]


Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 09:59 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Here is a picture of the oil trough feeder tube bracket bolt heads that show on the outside of the engine block. Notice the copper washers under the bolt heads.

For reference's sake, the hole in the middle of the photo is for the dip stick. If you have trouble imagining this, stand on your head. The engine is upside down in the engine stand. laugh

Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:00 PM. Reason: typo

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379
Likes: 1
Technical Advisor
ChatMaster - 10,000
Offline
Technical Advisor
ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379
Likes: 1


At some point in time that engine needs a good Saturday night bath.



Agrin devil



RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Right you are, Ray. I will 'bathe' the pile of parts that will go into the final build engine. Certainly its innards.

Lurch wouldn't be happy if the outside was too purty. devildance

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 14
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 14
good read Dean!

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Grease Monkey
Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
HI Dean,

Nice work with the resurrection so far.

I have some food for thought in regards to any machining you might be looking at getting.

One of the modification that we have conducted on the old mans 1925 chev is to counter sink the flywheel bolt holes. This allows a modern day clutch fit in quite nicely.

[img:left]http://vintageandveteranchevy.blogspot.com.au/2017/04/blog-post.html[/img]

Also another modification we have adopted from advice is to install a lube line from your main oil pump line directly into the bottom main center cap.

[img:left]https://vintageandveteranchevy.blogspot.com.au/2017/04/centre-cap-modification.html[/img]



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Thanks Chistech and Brendank.

When I get to the final assembly, I will make a list of which parts are coming from which engine and also list any modifications that I make. Keep these good ideas coming!

Below are the pictures that didn't work in the previous post.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from 1.bp.blogspot.com]

[Linked Image from 2.bp.blogspot.com]

[Linked Image from 3.bp.blogspot.com]


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 12
Grease Monkey
Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 12
This is a really interesting thread, apologies if my post constitutes a hijack...

Originally Posted by BrendanK
Also another modification we have adopted from advice is to install a lube line from your main oil pump line directly into the bottom main center cap.

That's an interesting mod, I'm building a slightly "warmed up" motor for my '28 Tourer at the moment. Did you put grooves in the white metal on the underside of that oil feed, or did you just leave a hole to feed the oil?

Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 42
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 42
That's not a 1925 Chev oil pump... The 1925 had an external oil pump with inlet & trough oil lines through the pan, the centre main was fed through the block.
You must have a '27 or '28 engine in your 1925 Chev.

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
I agree with Termite_Delight that BrendanK's car might be a '25, but the engine is from '26, '27, or '28.

Although the installation of an oil line to the main crank bearing is an interesting modification, there is an aspect of the the oil distributor that is not mentioned much.

In addition to feeding oil to the trough filler tubes, the oil distributor has a hole on its side that squirts oil directly into the oil reservoir that oils the center crank bearing. You cannot visually see this hole unless you take the oil distributor out of the engine. hello2

Here's a thread where I wrote about a test of the new gear-type oil pump for the four cylinder engines. In the video, note the stream of oil coming out of the side of the oil distributor. This is the stream that feeds the center crank bearing in the later 4 bangers.

1928 gear oil pump test

In the engine that I am currently tearing down, this hole is complete plugged with sludge, meaning the center bearing was NOT getting the flow of oil that it wanted or deserved.

Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Grease Monkey
Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
HI Termite and Dean,

Yes you are correct this is a 27 engine we are building right now.
Also the old mans 1925 Tourer has a 1926 engine installed.

Dean interesting about the oil feed from the oil distributer I have not noticed any holes or paid too much attention as the oil line modification was going to be done.

Regards
Brendan

Last edited by BrendanK; 04/27/17 12:32 AM.
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Grease Monkey
Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Hi Stuart,

The white metal is the same as standard with the X grooved in the cap.

Regards,
Brendan

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Back to the tear down.

The picture below is another clue that this '28 engine was put into a 1924 car. The casting date on the flywheel is from 1924.

Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:02 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
The crank pulley came off with a little heat from a propane torch and a gear puller. Then, I took off the cover over the cam gears.

The next operation, removing the cam shaft and crank-cam gear, require that the crankshaft not turn. It's hard to screw in a gear puller when the crank and camshaft turn easily!

What do ya do when the tool you want does not exist? Invent it!

Behold, my patent-pending keep-the-crankshaft-from-turning-by-jamming-the-flywheel sheet metal bracket. The royalty fee for using my idea is one Diet Coke.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:02 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Next to come out of the engine is the camshaft. It is held in place by two slotted flat head 1/4-20 bolts.

You can see them through the holes in the cam gear.

The previous person who touched these bolts center punched one edge to keep them from getting loose.

So, I used an old school impact wrench to loosen them. The last time I used this tool was in the late 1970's when I took a '69 Honda 750 apart. laugh

Notice the gear puller on the crank cam gear. That sucker was STUCK!!! It did not come off after a week of soaking in PB Blaster and heating the gear with a propane torch. What finally did it was to heat the gear again and melt some wax on the end of the shaft, which lubricated the shaft by capillary action. This is a trick I learned recently from the local High School Auto Shop Teacher. yay

The next picture shows the bracket that holds the camshaft in the block. This picture is showing the back of the fiber cam gear.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]


Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:03 PM. Reason: added verbiage

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Slightly out of order, I had to remove the crank pulley woodruff key before taking off the crank cam gear.

Below is a picture of the setup. I clamped a vice grip onto the part of the key that was outside the crank. Notice that I put 2/3rds of the vice grip on the key and 1/3 hanging out in space. This was to provide a place to pound a wedge (screwdriver) into so that the key was 'persuaded' out of its groove.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:03 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Next to come off was the backplate that resides behind the cam gears. Below is a picture of the slotted flat head 1/4-20 bolts that hold it to the block.

I used the impact wrench again to loosen these bolts because, as you can see in the photo, the previous guy center punched the edge of each bolt to keep it from coming loose.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:04 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
With the cam gears backplate removed, you can see all the yucky sludge that clogged up the oil flow cavity. Nasty stuff! greenman

The second photo shows the cavity with some of the sludge scraped out.

At this point of the story, I'm going to take a short break. I have to pull Lurch's engine out and get it on the engine stand for its teardown.

So far, I did not talk too much about evaluating parts for the final build. I will do more of that after I take Lurch's engine apart.

Stay tuned, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:04 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Let the fun begin again! yay

I finally pulled Lurch's engine out and will now start pulling it apart.

To recap the reason for this entire thread, Lurch's engine was running, but smoking and with little power. The poor guy could hardly get on and off the trailer! The compression was 50-55 pounds in each cylinder.

So, I'm tearing apart two partial '28 engines and Lurch's '28 engine to hopefully get a full complement of parts for a good used engine.

Ever onward!

Below are the first pics of Lurch's engine. I expect to find a lot of wear, but clean innards. We shall see.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:05 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Just a little out of order, I pulled the pressure plate off before I put the engine on the stand.

I took two opposite bolts out and replaced them with two longer bolts. Then I took out the rest of the bolts, the pressure plate slide safely away from the flywheel, and out onto the longer bolts. Then clutch dropped out. laugh

Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:05 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Here are a couple of pictures of Lurch's head.

The top looks good, but I know from experience that the rocker bushings are very worn.

There is a lot of carbon buildup on a couple of the exhaust valves. I'm not surprised.

BTW, what are ya gonna do when your son moves out of the house and leaves his skateboard? Re-purpose it!!

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]



Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:06 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Can you spell WORN? Yes, this engine was running last year.

Here's a picture looking down in cylinder number three.

I'll quantify the wear when I inspect everything to choose parts for the final build.

Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:07 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Next to come off the engine is the oil filter and coil assembly. Since a new oil filter is around $100, I put a 1950's style canister-type oil filter on Lurch. The cartridges are $15 at Napa.

This type of oil filter canister was originally bolted to the intake manifold. I used a short section of one inch galvanized water pipe that is bolted to a piece of angle iron for a bracket. I cut a slot in the water pipe to access the bolts that hold the whole thing to the block. Below is a picture of the bracket. Rube Goldberg strikes again! laugh

Then I took the distributor out. This is the correct distributor (Delco 635B) for '28 engines, so I'll reuse it for Lurch's build. The driving gear is worn (the teeth are thin), so I'll probably replace it.

Cheers, Dean

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/17/18 10:07 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Page 2 of 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
2 members (Peter_Gariepy, 1 invisible), 78 guests, and 34 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
aristech, RalphL, tonysk
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,071
Posts429,069
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5